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what did you wrench on today??

was riding the bike around and i couldnt get it to shift into 1st gear, i thought it was a transmission problem but noticed the shifter was sticky so i pulled it off a little and greased it now its smooth as butter and shifts great!

also went to the dmv and turns out my bike wasnt non OPed so theres 650 dollers in back fees, sucks my bike only cost 500 and i got it running for like 50.
 
Had alot of little projects on the back burner. Had a chance to do them and ran out of excuses for not doing them so.......
On my GS1000 I added some oil (where does that synthetic go?) and tightened the drive chain, was shifting kinda hard so I thought, "driveline lash." I'll know when I ride it if that helped.
Last night I put in a 1st generation "new to me" turn signal control unit, confidence was high, both left and right flashers flashed, but when I rode it, it just kept flashing forever. I'd like to get another serviceable one, boy those things are hard to come by in a serviceable or even unserviceable condition, that's OK, Dale's working on the fix.

On my GS1100, I had this really loud buzzing/vibration noise when the RPM's hit from 3,500 to about 4,200, really annoying!. I thought it was a loose baffle in the left side stock muffler. Luckily it turned out to be the muffler heat shield. I acquired a set after I got the bike as they were missing. When you deal with these, you miss the ease of working on the GS1000, only two little accessable screws and the heat sheild is off, not so with the 1100, four screws, and one I haven't been able to figure out how to replace, that is unless I take the mufflers off, which I won't do, just ain't worth it to me. Anyway, I got some nylon washers and reworked it and got the buzzing to stop, so
smooth........................................... now.
I got a '83 GS1100E chain gaurd from Josh (ironshiek, thanks!) to replace my cracked '82 GS1100E one. Again the 1000 is the better bike, seems all the '82/'83 chain gaurds I've seen on E-bay were cracked, so finding a replacement was not going to be easy. I jumped on this one when the opportunity came. The stickers are different colors, silver for the '82 and black for the '83, not that it matters to me. 10 minutes and it's swapped out, but spent another hour and many test drives trying to get my chain not to rub on gaurd, lots of tweeking.

The engineers could've done a better job on the chain gaurd, it's just weak in the area where it's cracked, and all the other cracked ones are the same, I was going to repair it, by "I" punching the end of the crack and riveting a link across the split. Here's looking at the chain gaurd from the back about a third of the way down.
100_1442.jpg


And now a front top view, one thing about the crack is that it wasn't getting any worse. It will find a home where GS Rick can repair it and put it on his GS1100.
100_1443.jpg
 
Adjusted the clutch after I got home from work and took a short 10-15 mile ride; had to stop along the way and adjust the idle as it was too high. I'm hoping everything starts up good in the AM as I plan to ride into work for the first time since September.
 
Wrenched on our oven today... had to replace the top griller element... fun stuff!

And tonight I started bending the carry rack bottom rails to suit the tail piece.
 
decided the new paint on the calipers bodies was OK, very much like the orginal stuff that is still on the untouched carriers...so new pistons and seals in...I'm sure they will look OK once their installed

bikepics-2390082-800.jpg



RB:)
 
Wired my 550L stator and rr direct and added a 15 amp inline fuse to the rr power to battery. Instant results in charging quality and output. Cleaned or replaced connectors as needed.
 
Replaced the fairings on the Bandit and disassembled the headlight module and removed the blockers. My headlight output almost doubled.
 
Started putting the best parts of the dead DR 350 onto the one with the 441 engine.

It's gonna be sweet...
 
Started putting the best parts of the dead DR 350 onto the one with the 441 engine.

It's gonna be sweet...

Ooooh... are you going to be able to keep the front wheel down? :D


As for me...

I finished the bends on the carry rack to mate it up with the grab rail...
 
Ooooh... are you going to be able to keep the front wheel down? :D


As for me...

I finished the bends on the carry rack to mate it up with the grab rail...

Why yes, I can keep the front wheel down. It comes down every time I close the throttle.
 
I got my order from Earl's today and my seals and boots from Bike Bandit for my front calipers too. Time to go out and torque the rear axle back down, build those calipers back up and make some new lines. :D
 
Pop riveted the baffle into my new BUB header.

posplayer's throttle mod, done.

10mm is a mite wide for the 650. Had to sand it down. 8.5 is wide enough to hold the cable nicely, and prevents rubbing. Haven't had a chance to try it on the road, but the snap back is good, and the hand position at WOT sublime.

I'm thinking it might be worth it to try a Teflon ring with a slight groove in place of PVC next time
 
Finally figured out that I had put the master cylinder back together in the wrong order after about two weeks of bleeding and then servicing calipers when the seals finally arrived, luckily just before buying a pair of calipers. ********.
 
broke down one fork...polished the tube, looks not to bad...soda blasted the lower and a second hand set of disk centres...plan is to do the other fork tomorrow and at least apply some etch primer...going for black......just waiting on the new allen bolts to come to replace the ones I had to drill out

RB:)
 
Pulled the complete front suspension out of the T-Bird yesterday. :mad:

Ball joints frozen.
Lower control arm bushings (2-4) frozen.
Drivers side coil spring broken.
Right front strut leaking.


New KYB struts on the shelf.
Complete Energy Suspension bushings for EVERYTHING, on the shelf.
Moog Ball joints on the shelf.
Energy Suspension sway bar links, on the shelf.
New springs on the way.
4 new tires paid for and waiting here at work.

Tie rods are tight so they are going to stay... :o

And I wonder why my wife calls the T-Bird, "the Money Pit". :p

Just did the same thing on my camaro.
GM stuff is solid, but once it finally goes....start hittin the gym!

I spent more money on tools than parts!

Had to bash the front hubs with a sledge hammer for 15 minutes.
That "sorta" broke them loose....:rolleyes:

Had to cut the rear pivot bolts out with a sawzall, and needed diamond tipped blades, just to get threw it! man that GM stuff is solid and stubborn.
I even lifted the entire car by ONE bolt, then quickly dropped and locked it, over and over....didn't break loose one bit!(that was before I cut it)

Then had to take the A-arms to a buddies so he could blast them with an acetylene torch for 10 minutes, to get the ball joints out.(even my expensive ball-joint press wouldn't get them off, :mad:)

The upper ball-joints were riveted on, so I had to drill them and attack them with an air-hammer for what seemed like hours.
(it's at a bad angle, and no room to work, hammer kept slipping off.)

Every single bolt on that car fought me like crazy.
If I knew what I was in for, I would have just rolled it down in the middle of the street!

But she feels smooth now!
 
Not the bike tonight (replaced a nut on the brake handle after it almost fell off last night) but did have to "wrench" on a network switch tonight when we couldn't get into it earlier this week. Whoever configured it last month with the new operating system forgot to put it on the second supervisor module so the switch didn't like talking to us. Got it running right and placed a copy of the software where it needed to be.
 
Replaced the intake rubbers and o-rings on the K11RS yesterday...
intake_1.jpg


Today I finally recovered the stock seat for the 1100E...
seat_1.jpg


seat_2.jpg

And when the instructions tell you to use any heavy duty stapler...what they mean is a pneumatic stapler...
Tried my Arrow T50, tried an electric...sorry...had to make a run to Harbor Freight...
But it was only $25 and works great...
seat_3.jpg
 
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