what did you wrench on today??

[Redman]

Got swingarm off this evening.
The problem made itself quite evident. (photos and more details in "Drivetrain". "looking for shaft drive experience") (And the expertise/ expereince there was spot on - exact.)

That was enough crawling around on the ground for this guy. Will get back at it later in the week.

 

[Rijko]

worked all day on a set of 28mm carbs for a GS1000S.
Soaking the bodies in Berryman carb dip, cleaning, polishing ... tedious work.
All new o-rings from Robert.



Looking for float bowl and top hat bolts, they are 1$ a piece.
Times 28, and 10 carb sets to go, that's 280$.
On Aliexpress they offer similar ones at 5$ per 100, just not
with the iso dot on the head.

 

[Guest]

While my engine covers are in the hands of Alex (Sandman900SS) getting refinished, I decided to touch up the paint on the engine (it just wouldn't be right to have gorgeous covers right next to crusty old paint!). Here's a link to my album on Flickr to the work in progress...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129480799@N07/albums/72157688163580336

 

[Guest]

Yesterday I started the tear down of the new Kat. Fairing and panels removed, airbox, battery, headlight assembly, etc. I've placed my o-ring order with Robert Barr. Also placed my Z1 order for oil filter, gaskets, spark plugs,etc. And more gaskets and engine casing emblems from Babbits. Once all of this stuff arrives I'll disassemble and dip the carbs. The bike runs fine, but since I'm installing new o-rings I might as well do a thorough carb cleaning. Valve clearance will then be adjusted followed by a carb sync. You guys know the drill.

I also discovered that the fairing is not original. The guy I bought it from was the second owner and he didn't replace it so the original owner must have. Kind of disappointed, but I guess it's not unheard of for a 35 year old bike.

Cheers!
K

 

[Guest]

Yesterday I started the tear down of the new Kat. Fairing and panels removed, airbox, battery, headlight assembly, etc. I've placed my o-ring order with Robert Barr. Also placed my Z1 order for oil filter, gaskets, spark plugs,etc. And more gaskets and engine casing emblems from Babbits. Once all of this stuff arrives I'll disassemble and dip the carbs. The bike runs fine, but since I'm installing new o-rings I might as well do a thorough carb cleaning. Valve clearance will then be adjusted followed by a carb sync. You guys know the drill.

I also discovered that the fairing is not original. The guy I bought it from was the second owner and he didn't replace it so the original owner must have. Kind of disappointed, but I guess it's not unheard of for a 35 year old bike.

Cheers!
K

Good stuff! What makes you think the fairing isn't original?

 

[Guest]

Good stuff! What makes you think the fairing isn't original?

It doesn't have the indentations for the turn signal stalks. And it's made from a heavily sprayed Fiberglas, which I understand may or may not have been the original Suzuki marterial. But the turn signal stalks are a dead giveaway. It has surface mount turn signals and I was hoping the original owner installed them to cover up the cracks that the fairings are prone to. But that's not the case.

 

[Guest]

Got ya, yeah that sounds aftermarket. I'm in two minds on mine... it's been modified to take surface mount indicators but there definitely appear to be what's left of indents there for the indicators as well. It's fibreglass but that could just mean it's an early one.

 

[Guest]

Carbs have been completely stripped and the last one is dipping. Just waiting on my o-ring shipment to arrive and a quick trip to Fastenal for some new stainless steel screws and I can reassemble. They were actually pretty clean on the inside but now at least I know they are and have a baseline. I also adjusted the valves (none were too tight, a few were too loose) and cleaned the valve cover. The PO installed the breather cap with what looks to be RTV. It was messy and difficult to remove along with the remains of the original gasket. I believe he did this because one corner of the cover was broken off. I mended it with JB Weld and you can now barely see the cracks.

Next step will be to completely clean the engine while I have the carbs and air box off, then tackle the electrical connections and clean them up.

Cheers!
K

 

[Guest]

We have to see more pic's when she's done, can't ever be too many Kat photos

 

[Nschultz]

On my 83 1100E, I fixed a turn signal issue, drained the gas out of the tank and drained the oil. waiting on oil and air filters before i put fresh oil in it. will also be rebuilding the petcock and replacing the vacuum line from the tank to the carbs.

 

[Carter Turk]

Trying find source of rattle in engine. Sounds like cam chain, but an APE manual one didn't solve it.
I investigated the starter clutch first, followed by valve clearances. Exhaust collars are tight, then checked the clutch.
Nothing looked odd, APE nut was tight, then noticed one of the case half plates phillip screws was loose as well as another.
The half moon one right behind clutch. Hoping this is the rattle but I doubt it.

 

[dorkburger]

Trying find source of rattle in engine. Sounds like cam chain, but an APE manual one didn't solve it.
I investigated the starter clutch first, followed by valve clearances. Exhaust collars are tight, then checked the clutch.
Nothing looked odd, APE nut was tight, then noticed one of the case half plates phillip screws was loose as well as another.
The half moon one right behind clutch. Hoping this is the rattle but I doubt it.

Ive been trying to find one (engine rattle) for 17 years now..... I never thought to check those plates when I had the clutch out a couple of years ago.

 

[Guest]

Trying find source of rattle in engine. Sounds like cam chain, but an APE manual one didn't solve it.
I investigated the starter clutch first, followed by valve clearances. Exhaust collars are tight, then checked the clutch.
Nothing looked odd, APE nut was tight, then noticed one of the case half plates phillip screws was loose as well as another.
The half moon one right behind clutch. Hoping this is the rattle but I doubt it.

Please educate me. I have two questions:

1) what is a "case half plate"? I have an intermittent rattle in my '81 GS850G that I've about decided is the damper springs on the backside of the clutch basket, but I haven't taken the time yet to check them.
2) what is an APE nut?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Carter Turk]

Ive been trying to find one (engine rattle) for 17 years now..... I never thought to check those plates when I had the clutch out a couple of years ago.

I haven't started it yet, for fear of the noise still being there.
I carefully cleaned female and male threads where the plates go, added red loctite, but have broken three of them and the screws have backed out on more than a few occasions.
I believe the helical gear on the clutch pulls against this plate, plus I'm missing the C-ring behind this plate.
It cracked off many years ago.
Also the piano wire in the clutch hub popped out damaging one of my brand new OEM clutch fibers.
I had the little cross-X ends of the wire properly seated and the wire surrounded popped into it recesses.

 

[Carter Turk]

Please educate me. I have two questions:

1) what is a "case half plate"? I have an intermittent rattle in my '81 GS850G that I've about decided is the damper springs on the backside of the clutch basket, but I haven't taken the time yet to check them.
2) what is an APE nut?

Thanks for your help!

Not sure it's the same on a 850, but it just a plate shaped more like a crecent moon with three countersunk phillip head screws securing case halfs behind the clutch hub. My loose screw was nearly or maybe grazing the oil pump drive gear (the one the clutch hub engages).
There's 2 other plates back there above the shift rod with similar phillip head screws.

The APE nut is just a stronger steel nut for the clutch hub, the stock one tends to stretch causing the threads to widen and often one finds the nut loose even when the lock washer is bent over.

 

[Guest]

Not sure it's the same on a 850, but it just a plate shaped more like a crecent moon with three countersunk phillip head screws securing case halfs behind the clutch hub. My loose screw was nearly or maybe grazing the oil pump drive gear (the one the clutch hub engages).
There's 2 other plates back there above the shift rod with similar phillip head screws.

The APE nut is just a stronger steel nut for the clutch hub, the stock one tends to stretch causing the threads to widen and often one finds the nut loose even when the lock washer is bent over.

So I take it the APE nut is not an OEM item then, right? And where do I get one? I did find my clutch hub nut slightly loose once (despite the lock washer being bent over, as you suggested).

 

[Carter Turk]

So I take it the APE nut is not an OEM item then, right? And where do I get one? I did find my clutch hub nut slightly loose once (despite the lock washer being bent over, as you suggested).

www.aperaceparts.com

No not stock. There near Willow Springs in California, seen them on EBay too.
APE heavy duty clutch nut, might call to confirm 850 fitament.
Think they're around $25.

 

[Guest]

Replaced my battery yesterday so I don't have to keep bump starting the 450. Went back to a good ol' lead acid this time as the extra $$$ for the Motobatt just isn't warranted. It lasted no longer than the original cheap lead acid I had. Interestingly enough when I mentioned to the battery guy I was replacing a Motobatt he said "yeah they're sh!t"... exact words.

They have one cut open for display and you can see everything including the fact the bus bars are extremely thin. He also said they tended to die unexpectedly which is sorta what happened to me. I had a little warning with slow cranking on the really cold mornings but this week it just stopped completely despite showing full charge on a multimeter.

 

[Guest]

As some of you know, I had Alex Callas (aka Sandman900ss) refinish my engine covers. The man does absolutely phenomenal work (fast, too!). I intentionally opted for the more subdued look of a near-factory finish - as opposed to the highly polished look - and I couldn't be happier with the results. I used a "kit" of polished SS fasteners that I bought on Ebay (with anti-seize compound on the threads), as well as all new OEM gaskets. I actually installed the covers a few days ago, but I did just take the pictures today. Here's a link to the album I created on Flickr.

As for the carbs, they were rebuilt by Steve Woodin (aka GSWhisperer) who also does fantastic work.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129480799@N07/albums/72157685188868772/with/36834514190/

As

 

[storm 64]

As some of you know, I had Alex Callas (aka Sandman900ss) refinish my engine covers. The man does absolutely phenomenal work (fast, too!). I intentionally opted for the more subdued look of a near-factory finish - as opposed to the highly polished look - and I couldn't be happier with the results. I used a "kit" of polished SS fasteners that I bought on Ebay (with anti-seize compound on the threads), as well as all new OEM gaskets. I actually installed the covers a few days ago, but I did just take the pictures today. Here's a link to the album I created on Flickr.

As for the carbs, they were rebuilt by Steve Woodin (aka GSWhisperer) who also does fantastic work.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129480799@N07/albums/72157685188868772/with/36834514190/

As

Wow, looks realy good Scott! I like that satin look. A real fine 850g you have.