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what did you wrench on today??

After building my new SS brake lines, I went to start bleeding the front brake to prep for installing the new line.

When my 8mm box wrench couldn't get enough grip to turn the bleeder valve, I sprayed some PB blaster on it and let it sit for a bit. Tried again but my crappy box wrench and the nut both seemed worn and it would grip, but the wrench would slip before turning the nut.

After a little more PB and time, I returned with an 8mm socket (which is a better quality than my box wrench set) to worry that nut loose.

It felt like it was starting to turn when . . . the whole damn bleeder snapped off the caliper. :(

I ordered a another caliper off eBay, since they were pretty cheap. Already have new pads at hand, since I was going to change those out anyway.

Strangely enough, the sheared bleeder valve does not leak any fluid. I figured that the broken bleeder would leave a drafty hole in the brake system, but when I work the brake lever, nothing comes out at the caliper and the brake feels just a firm as before, no spongy feel at all.
 
MisterCinders said:
...
Strangely enough, the sheared bleeder valve does not leak any fluid. I figured that the broken bleeder would leave a drafty hole in the brake system, but when I work the brake lever, nothing comes out at the caliper and the brake feels just a firm as before, no spongy feel at all.
Click to expand...

Yup. No flow until they're unseated.
 
MisterCinders said:
After building my new SS brake lines, I went to start bleeding the front brake to prep for installing the new line.

When my 8mm box wrench couldn't get enough grip to turn the bleeder valve, I sprayed some PB blaster on it and let it sit for a bit. Tried again but my crappy box wrench and the nut both seemed worn and it would grip, but the wrench would slip before turning the nut.

After a little more PB and time, I returned with an 8mm socket (which is a better quality than my box wrench set) to worry that nut loose.

It felt like it was starting to turn when . . . the whole damn bleeder snapped off the caliper. :(

I ordered a another caliper off eBay, since they were pretty cheap. Already have new pads at hand, since I was going to change those out anyway.

Strangely enough, the sheared bleeder valve does not leak any fluid. I figured that the broken bleeder would leave a drafty hole in the brake system, but when I work the brake lever, nothing comes out at the caliper and the brake feels just a firm as before, no spongy feel at all.
Click to expand...

Been there, done that. Only I broke mine off during rebuild, so no way to bleed it. Then, broke off the easy-out trying to salvage the caliper. :mad:
 
A little bit late but anyway here goes...
The next time that you attempt to remove a stubborn brake bleeder,
heat it with propane or map gas torch and let it cool down. (keep water handy in case of fire)
Then, make certain that you use a 6-point socket and work it back and forth until it submits to your efforts.

Daniel
 
+1 on the 6 point, I was thinking the same thing while reading this. If you must heat it... do it lightly. If you get the brake fluid hot enough, it will expand / boil and blow out seals or a hose. Before the heat, try to gently tap the threaded boss of the caliper where the bleeder threads into it with the "ball" of a ball peen hammer while applying the tourque with your wrench.
 
I replaced my rear brake pads on my 82 GS1100E. Very easy to do only took 5 minutes.
 
Oh well. Some PO snapped off one of the two rear brake bleeders. Looks like I am rebuilding both brakes now.

Also managed to snap my speedo cable. So I am ordering a new cable too.
 
Nothing. But I declared war on the mice that chewed up the shop cloths I left my nice clean parts on. The front of my garage has lots of traps just waiting for furry visitors. If the traps don't work, the next step is napalm.

Jim
 
Only a little bit tonight, but more than the last three nights put together...

Lowered the front guard about 25mm's so I now have just over the required 140mm clearance for the full fork travel.
 
GSJim,have heard of "mice milk"..? got milk? They chewed/broke through garage doors elect. lift control wires,protect Suzuki and every thing,season change,nesting time,look under car/truck hood once and awhile before start up hope you not find them there or cousin chipmonk,good luck.
 
Just a tip to pass along...
To keep vermin away from your prized possessions, either place a bar (or parts of one) of Irish Spring soap (original scent)
or moth balls (available at most dollar-type stores) on, under, near your bikes and other vehicles.
They will stay away. ;)

Daniel
 
The Wife's 300M... no data bus... took the instrument cluster out of it and resoldered the data bus line on the clusters printed circuit board and a solder joint on one leg of a diode that looked a bit questionable.

did what voltage and resistance tests that I could on it, but at the moment its working fine. I still suspect an open wire in the module communications chain somewhere. but until it fails again, not much I can do without a DRBIII to monitor them.

so... on to the next project.

***edit***
ripped the hvac control head out of it, resoldered three bad joints. two on a transistor one on a resistor leg. so far the interior temp is regulating correctly. also the no buss message on the cluster hasn't shown up again.

fixed?? who knows yet...
 
Last edited:
worked on my 1990 honda cb-1 that i'm putting back together for my boss a couple days ago. it used to be a race bike, so pretty much everything was stripped off it.

i put the starter back in and the start button, couldn't do much else cause i'm having a hell of a time getting the crankcase covers off.
 
Pulled the tank and filled it with vinegar to get some rust spots out.

Swapped my pilot jets out to drop them from 17.5 to 15. Should get rid of my richness problem in the idle circuit.

Cut the old headlight brackets off and installed the new chrome brackets to match my chrome headlight bucket. New look is sweet.

This week, it's time to tackle the brakes.
 
Knocked a few little things over tonight.

Worked out I don't have to re-route the tacho cable with the lowered front guard.

Measured up the brake line to get a braided replacement.

Worked out where to drill the hole in the front guard so I can put the rubber guide for the speedo cable in.
 
led neutral and gear position indicator

led neutral and gear position indicator

I am so tired of forgetting if I'm in 4th or 5 gear while dragracing so I think I have the problem fixed.

DSC00621.jpg
,
DSC00622.jpg


DSC00627.jpg
,
DSC00628.jpg


DSC00632.jpg
,
DSC00631.jpg



DSC00633.jpg
 
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