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what did you wrench on today??

Anybody have experience with K&L petcocks? I got one from Z1 for my GS750 and didn't really do as much `research' as I should have. The fuel line connection exits from the wrong side (toward the back of the bike) and also the bolts aren't surrounded by gasket like in the stock one so it leaks through the bolt holes.
Don't think I can return it because I already installed it and had gas going through.

31743596315_b60bc160f0_z.jpg
 
You might try adding rubber-backed washers to the bolts???? They sell them at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. I've never tried them but it may be a cheap solution. If not, you will only be out a couple of bucks.
 
Where did you buy the boots for the airbox? I'm gonna need those real soon on my GS750 rebuild.
 
1978GS750E said:
You might try adding rubber-backed washers to the bolts???? They sell them at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. I've never tried them but it may be a cheap solution. If not, you will only be out a couple of bucks.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip - hadn't thought of that. I was going to whip out the gasket paper and exacto tonight but that is a much better solution... Thanks!

The boots are from Z1 Enterprises and were just over $50 which I thought was quite reasonable. Tons of GS stuff there easy to get carried away...
 
Was changing out the oil of the secondary drive unit on a 'new to me' GS850G. A LOT of water came out and then some oil... That was quite a surprise. A bit of research here shows that this is not an uncommon problem. But it freaked me out at first! Primary drive unit and engine oil all seemed to be OK though.

IMG_1846.jpg
 
Well, didn't "wrench" on it but this was my project today.

The old and busted late 60's or early 70's vintage door had to go.



Out with the old.



In with the new fiberglass unit.



Oak frame and trim but these fiberglass doors withstand the southwest weather much better than wood. Since it faces South the finish will fade in five years, but it's still better than wood.
 
Installed heated grips on the Bus today...

15626177_10154858836354921_7330222561861255310_o.jpg


... looking forward to having toasty hands on my annual Christmas Day ride tomorrow! :encouragement:
 
Working on my 900F. Got it clear coated last weekend and hope to have everything put back on this weekend. Yesterday, I just got the seat assembly put back together.

 
sam000lee said:
Keep us posted on how it goes:cool:
Click to expand...

Well it a 2012 Classic mode as indicated by the service manual serial number decode page
Made in week 37.
White in colour and with some clear indicators of the PO dicking about inside. Damaged screw heads, loose screws etc.
The grease is old enough that it has separated in the usual way.

I tore it down to remove the drive and driven gears as being a root cause of failure. All gears are in good shape.

The worm geared motor output shaft spins freely so its not a bearing binding issue.
I removed the brushes and the PO buggered up the spring on one. It still forces the brush in place but its twisted.
Commutator shows a bit of dirt buildup.

In order to not need adjustment of the speed control I am removing the motor with the controls in place if possible.

I am thinking of just hooking the ac leads to the armature leads bypassing all the electronics and mechanical contact switches.

More to come
or none as this may be a shocking experience.
This is the most fun I have had in months.
 
Last edited:
its alive? Bypassing the speed controls and witing direct it spins like a jet.
The root cause may be that some tinkering PO tore into it to fix it and screwed it up worse.
Now to adjust speed control as it is unlikely that the adjustment screw was ever engineered to be full seated what with it being an adjustment screw.

Best money i ever spent on kijiji
tomorrow i learn how to bake.
 
Really nice looking seat assembly Deuce. I just picked up a 750 and plan on doing something similar. Did you buy the pin striping or is that painted?
 
Cipher said:
Im about to tear into a Kitchen Aid Mixer that refuses to run. It ran when it was out away.
Click to expand...

My Kitchen Aid is a model 4C, which I bought for $99 in 1975. Its internals are very similar to the 1930s models. My father gave my mother a 2C when they married inn 1950. She had wanted a MixMaster, like her friends owned. She figured out over the years that Kitchen Aid was made better.

Brushes on mine need occasional cleaning. Q-tips work..Rotate it by hand to clean the commutator by pressing a Q-tip against it. Also the contactors can corrode. Flour dust can coat the contactors. I've touched them up lightly with an ignition point file. The gear box has some light clunks, but I've never opened it. If it wears out or I can't fix it, I'll replace it with a model with electronic controls, at least 300W.
 
Its odd that some old mixers last so long. I did a bit of research and was able to find the factory service manual for my model on a British Kitchen Aid website.
People are as oddly passionate about these mixers as some folks are about motorcycles. There is a lot of bitterness and misunderstanding posted against Kitchen Aid by folks that lack the ability to understand basic mechanics and electricity.

The shocking abuse some of these upset people subject these small devices to is amazing. You tube vids with dry wads of dough causing the machine to pitch about etc.
Some folks have no common sense.

Like the guys the whine about chain stretch after doing a couple hundred 1/4 mile races.
 
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