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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
Yesterday, I replaced the forks on a 1000G with forks with Gold Valve Emulators and Racetech springs. Had some grief with brake lines, but found I had decent spares. Determined that the brake light was on all the time, and figured out it was the front switch. Fixed that. It has a fork brace on it which clamps to where the fork wipers go. It doesn't allow the fender to be placed in its normal position. Spent some time reworking the slotted holes in the fender to allow it to sit closer to the tire. Test rode it, and it really makes the weak old stock shocks seem even worse. Something must be done.
Had the afternoon, and wasn't hot-humid today.
So I started into a project on the BMW RT.
THe windshiled raise lower mechanism would only go up a little bit, cluld hear a click and motor stop. WOuld go down and bottom out but but keep runing and grunt and stall out.
Clymers manaul says to access the raise lower mechanism the first step it to remove the seats... what? huh?
THen the side covers, and then the side panels (that cover about 75% the side of the bike from bottom to top).
Then the instrument panel bezel, then can remove the upper fairing (nose) to get access to the windscreen raise lower meachanism.
Geepers, that doesnt make sence.
But after looking, yah, the side panel also cover up the bolts and screws that mount the upper fairing (nose).....
So I had been putting this off.
But was a nice day, not hot, not humid, I had the afternoon, so I started
....me and my 3mm allen wrench .... following the Clymer manual.
Seats, side covers, mirrors, then started in on the side panels.... first time for me doing any of this (well, except for the seat).
Followed manual step by step on the side panels, had out every screw, and checked again for every screw, and could not get off side panels, this was about hour and a half .... tryed some more to figure the trick, apparently is some trick above what the Clymer manaul said
So I let that sit for a while (before getting more frustrated), removed the windshield and remove that panel under the windshield... and...
AND... there... THERE was fairly good access to the raise lower mechanism.
I could disasemble the mechanism enough to find the gear with broken teeth.
So, I am here to say: TO get access to the raise lower mechanism, just remove the windshield and that panel under the windshield. THat will get you access enough to get at the gear no19, but not enough clearance to remove the entire mechanism.
If need access to the raise lower motor, or if need to remove the entire mechanism, well , then do need to remove the side panels so can get access to the bolts to remove the upper fairing. Dern Clymer.
(Did eventually figure the trick to getting the side panel off. So that was a good exercize in learning about that. But dont need to to get some access to the raise lower mechanism.)
Will get the gear on order. In the mean time, get it all back together.
When recieve the gear, dont need to take off the side panels......
But before I got it back together, I had an Dorkburger attack.
So I started into a project on the BMW RT.
THe windshiled raise lower mechanism would only go up a little bit, cluld hear a click and motor stop. WOuld go down and bottom out but but keep runing and grunt and stall out.
Clymers manaul says to access the raise lower mechanism the first step it to remove the seats... what? huh?
THen the side covers, and then the side panels (that cover about 75% the side of the bike from bottom to top).
Then the instrument panel bezel, then can remove the upper fairing (nose) to get access to the windscreen raise lower meachanism.
Geepers, that doesnt make sence.
But after looking, yah, the side panel also cover up the bolts and screws that mount the upper fairing (nose).....
So I had been putting this off.
But was a nice day, not hot, not humid, I had the afternoon, so I started
....me and my 3mm allen wrench .... following the Clymer manual.
Seats, side covers, mirrors, then started in on the side panels.... first time for me doing any of this (well, except for the seat).
Followed manual step by step on the side panels, had out every screw, and checked again for every screw, and could not get off side panels, this was about hour and a half .... tryed some more to figure the trick, apparently is some trick above what the Clymer manaul said
So I let that sit for a while (before getting more frustrated), removed the windshield and remove that panel under the windshield... and...
AND... there... THERE was fairly good access to the raise lower mechanism.
I could disasemble the mechanism enough to find the gear with broken teeth.
So, I am here to say: TO get access to the raise lower mechanism, just remove the windshield and that panel under the windshield. THat will get you access enough to get at the gear no19, but not enough clearance to remove the entire mechanism.
If need access to the raise lower motor, or if need to remove the entire mechanism, well , then do need to remove the side panels so can get access to the bolts to remove the upper fairing. Dern Clymer.
(Did eventually figure the trick to getting the side panel off. So that was a good exercize in learning about that. But dont need to to get some access to the raise lower mechanism.)
Will get the gear on order. In the mean time, get it all back together.
When recieve the gear, dont need to take off the side panels......
But before I got it back together, I had an Dorkburger attack.
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Darkside nears...
Looking forward to seeing this on the GS!
G
Guest
Guest
I started painting the calipers, getting ready to put it all together.
Fixing the ride for one of my grand-nephews.
The kid had better learn how to wrench pretty soon, he is too hard on his bikes.
The kid had better learn how to wrench pretty soon, he is too hard on his bikes.
Different tread pattern on each bike...whatcha running?
Had the pleasure to ride a CBX once, just around town with a Staintune 3/3 or 6/1, can't remember now, but motor sounded most pleasing, just rolling on & off throttle.
Haven't rode many Hondas, actually it turns out to be quite a few in retrospect, maybe 14-s-xl-gl-cr-cb-cbr-rc.
Had the pleasure to ride a CBX once, just around town with a Staintune 3/3 or 6/1, can't remember now, but motor sounded most pleasing, just rolling on & off throttle.
Haven't rode many Hondas, actually it turns out to be quite a few in retrospect, maybe 14-s-xl-gl-cr-cb-cbr-rc.
Bridgestone Spitfire S11 on the left and Bridgestone BT45 on the right.
The S11 is no longer made. That one is new and put on 4? years ago.
For years i have been a big fan and continue to be of the BT45.
The S11 is no longer made. That one is new and put on 4? years ago.
For years i have been a big fan and continue to be of the BT45.
Gods, is that a beautiful sight. To me, the most desirable of Japanese motorcycles is the CBx.
Meantime, I'm going to be pulling the 454 out of the Suburban to do a rebuild. Not going to be a fast job ...
Meantime, I'm going to be pulling the 454 out of the Suburban to do a rebuild. Not going to be a fast job ...
G
Guest
Guest
I removed the front wheel and then the fender.
I got new axle stands to support the bike without a front wheel:
I got new axle stands to support the bike without a front wheel:
G
Guest
Guest
Yeah, I have no idea why they bother putting things into the box.
So curious how hard it will be to reattach it since the lawn is sort of soggy so it sits low. I guess I could always dig a hole xD
G
Guest
Guest
Today I put the tyre back on, got a Bridgestone Battlax BT46, put the fender on (its now painted on the inside), needed some help from my wife to get the bike high enough, but you can compress the suspension a fair bit with just your hand. I luckily bought a mallet yesterday so getting the axle in was far easier than getting it out (I used my foot to kick it loose).
It seems there is oil on the bottom of my gas tank, and a lot around the tach wire, and the front in general. I think part of the gasket for the second top part of the engine has a corner that is folded (looks to be). It was quite smoky starting up (oil on the exhaust headers melting off). I also seem to have a clutch wire oil leak... I wonder if I could find a new top gasket before my carb allan bolts come, when they arrive I want to replace the bolts for the top end with allan and fix the leak from the cam chain tensioner. Could change the seal and check the valve clearances I guess.
It seems there is oil on the bottom of my gas tank, and a lot around the tach wire, and the front in general. I think part of the gasket for the second top part of the engine has a corner that is folded (looks to be). It was quite smoky starting up (oil on the exhaust headers melting off). I also seem to have a clutch wire oil leak... I wonder if I could find a new top gasket before my carb allan bolts come, when they arrive I want to replace the bolts for the top end with allan and fix the leak from the cam chain tensioner. Could change the seal and check the valve clearances I guess.
Got a 94 Xt350 for my son to go on fire roads when he gets his permit (soon), he likes it a lot. It's not powerful but good enough, has a YZ front fork which is good but no speedometer. Worked on some small stuff, put a new clutch side gasket on, sorted out headlight and put in a new battery. Kick start only with automatic compression release.
Not bad for well under a grand, needs little things but runs fine. Now I have 4 bikes to work on, have to block Craigslist from myself.
Not bad for well under a grand, needs little things but runs fine. Now I have 4 bikes to work on, have to block Craigslist from myself.
G
Guest
Guest
I tried removing the intake boot screws, but it proved difficult. Impact driver didn't have an impact, tried drilling a hole and using the stick thing you smash into it, but I struggled getting a deep enough hole (wonder if my bit is worn after just doing 3 screws). I am not sure if I am going to fix it or just leave it for another time, I sort of want to ride.
Got a 94 Xt350 for my son to go on fire roads when he gets his permit (soon), he likes it a lot. It's not powerful but good enough, has a YZ front fork which is good but no speedometer. Worked on some small stuff, put a new clutch side gasket on, sorted out headlight and put in a new battery. Kick start only with automatic compression release.
Not bad for well under a grand, needs little things but runs fine. Now I have 4 bikes to work on, have to block Craigslist from myself.
Nice score. My oldest son inherited my wife's xt 225 and he loved it, well till it got stolen anyway
Your son should be stoked.Speaking of new riders, my youngest at 23 is taking the MSF course next week. If all goes well he'll ride my 850 on our camping trip next month. He is a pretty good rider so the course should be a breeze.
G
Guest
Guest
I fixed the front brake brake light (switch was corroded) and I tried to fix my honk button and indicators. I lost one spring and had one spring extra when I was done... I suspect its the push indicator back springs. Wonder where I can buy an assortment of tiny springs.
And I was going to suggest you bag that horn button assembly before disassembly, but you dove in already. I've got an assortment of pens and mechanical pencils laying around that have donated their springs to just such an endeavor. May take a little digging to find ones that are close to the same diameter/strength and cut to length. Good luck, been there.
And I think I've decided that from now on, I'm calling it a "honk" button, too. Love it.
And I think I've decided that from now on, I'm calling it a "honk" button, too. Love it.
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I think someone here recently used part of a ball point pen spring...
EDIT: Dang...late again...
