what did you wrench on today??

[Brendan W]

Noreg's travails persuaded me to go after my front brake switch. The way the bits came out and the level of verdigris, I'm surprised it worked at all.
The copper saddle shaped contact has two tabs that look like they are supposed to retain it in holes in the plastic spring holder. I opened them out a bit and it pushed back in with a satisfying click. No way that thing is going to fly apart now.

 

[Guest]

And I was going to suggest you bag that horn button assembly before disassembly, but you dove in already. I've got an assortment of pens and mechanical pencils laying around that have donated their springs to just such an endeavor. May take a little digging to find ones that are close to the same diameter/strength and cut to length. Good luck, been there.

And I think I've decided that from now on, I'm calling it a "honk" button, too. Love it.

I went ahead and splurged on a new honker to celebrate the button working:

It, as the original, is labeled 105 decibel. But this one spooked me a bit when I pushed the button, its LOUD. I was worried replacing them entiled a bunch of complicated things, but no. The connectors fit right on (just have to bend the ones on the new honker 90 degrees) and then its plug and play. I don't think polarity of the wires matter either (or I got lucky). In retrospect I see that attaching the wires before attaching the bolt would have been a lot easier.

I think Ill replace the other one too (the one I replaced was disconnected and was very rusty). But then I wonder, should I get the same with high tone, or get the low tone?

My bike is still working like an oil fountain and spewing oil from the top/front. It also seems it pulls a bit uneven at higher rpms, and I think the clutch slipped when I gave it full throttle up a mountain in third (reved higher but no increase in speed). Wasn't able to reproduce it due to cows, sheep and a car being in my way.

Edit: after doing some research I have concluded I should have one high and one low tone horn. Ill get a low tone tomorrow.

 

[Guest]

Noreg's travails persuaded me to go after my front brake switch. The way the bits came out and the level of verdigris, I'm surprised it worked at all.
The copper saddle shaped contact has two tabs that look like they are supposed to retain it in holes in the plastic spring holder. I opened them out a bit and it pushed back in with a satisfying click. No way that thing is going to fly apart now.

Is there any other springs in there than the bellow the two peak copper thing?

 

[Brendan W]

Is there any other springs in there than the bellow the two peak copper thing?

Just one spring.

 

[cowboyup3371]

If the first one is a high tone then go with the Low Tone Noreg; they sound good together

 

[Guest]

If the first one is a high tone then go with the Low Tone Noreg; they sound good together

Will do. The original one has like barely any sound. Wonder if they can be refurbished or if they are trash.

I saw someone upgrade their headlights to some higher watt bulbs, my bike is H4 right? Would 80/100 watt melt my headlight bucket?

 

[Guest]

I went ahead and installed a second honker to get it symmetrical, and for more sound. Mixing high and low tone made a good and intimidating sound. I can now be sure I can alert people of danger.

As you might also notice, I have replaced my brake lines in the front with Snell Braided Steel lines. Everything seems to have crap in it (the reservoir, the splitter, the calipers), so I need to do a full tear down, but I should order o-rings and stuff first. I had real trouble bleeding these lines, I never seemed to get any pressure in the handle, but the fluid was coming out unbobly. So I tied a rag around the lever and went to work. When I came back and untied the rag the brakes seems to work as expected (need to do a road test though). I am thinking there were air in the master or something? And the bubles just went up when I left it. If anyone has any better explanation Id be happy to hear.

I could not get that copper out, my toolbox knife was nowhere to be found and I forgot about the bike knife. I just attached the hoses outside of them after cleaning. Is that bad?

I figure I need to tear the entire thing apart soon anyways as it seems rather messy inside. How does gunk get to the reservoir?

If anyone is in the market for vintage lightly used OEM brake lines for the front, let me know

 

[Guest]

Still trying to get the tune right on the Blue Bomber. Added a K&N air filter but think I may still have to go down a main jet size.

 

[Grimly]

I could not get that copper out, my toolbox knife was nowhere to be found and I forgot about the bike knife. I just attached the hoses outside of them after cleaning. Is that bad?

Should fit new copper washers or anneal the old ones (anneal copper by holding them in a gas burner flame until they glow then plunge them into water). There's a washer either side of the banjo - one between the banjo and caliper and one between the banjo and hollow bolt head.

 

[Guest]

https://imgur.com/iDnzqDY

Luckily I found my leak, sadly its the gasket on the top of the engine :/

Steel braided brake lines on the front works great, and the new honkers have a lot more honk.

So I guess Ill have to read up on removing the top of the engine.

 

[Guest]

Should fit new copper washers or anneal the old ones (anneal copper by holding them in a gas burner flame until they glow then plunge them into water). There's a washer either side of the banjo - one between the banjo and caliper and one between the banjo and hollow bolt head.

I have on either side, I added a new one, but I left the old ones...

They worked great on my test ride now, a lot more feedback.

But the brake lever is a bit lose, not stiff at the end, and that means my brake light stays on sometimes. Wonder how to fix that.

I have more washers (they sent some bonus ones), so I guess I can fix it now that I have to bring it inside to remove the head.

Edit: By a new one I mean two, one on either side. So one between the new and old.

 

[Baatfam]

Finally finished the SH775 conversion on the 1100E over the weekend....

 

[Guest]

Finally finished the SH775 conversion on the 1100E over the weekend....

Where did you get the connectors to connect to it? Like, my stator has these silly yellow wires with bullet connectors. How do I get them to that?

 

[Baatfam]

Where did you get the connectors to connect to it? Like, my stator has these silly yellow wires with bullet connectors. How do I get them to that?

Triumph harness part number: T2500676

 

[Guest]

Oh and I forgot to mention. I forgot to tighten the clamps holding the engine to the carbs. I noticed a screw was missing. Silly mistake. I took the screw from the rubber thing for the final/secondary drive thing to replace it and held the clamp for the drive with some steel wire. Seemed to have less bouncy RPM at high RPMs now.

 

[Guest]

I pulled the head off, now its dinner time, but afterwards we'll try to fashion a new seal.

 

[Hayabuser]

Wrenched on this:

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Noreg, I'm gonna nit-pik a little about your use of nomenclature. No offence intended, and I don't think I'm being a grammar Nazi. You know I'm pulling for you. I want you to get things straightened out, and I really enjoy your thoughtful threads and your great pictures. So, what you're calling the "head" is not the head. It is the valve cover, AKA, the Cylinder Head Cover (as it is termed on the parts fiches).

The part of the engine below the Cylinder Head Cover is the Head. The Head is where the valves are, where your spark plugs screw into, where your intake boots are, and where your exhaust it bolted to.

 

[Guest]

Noreg, I'm gonna nit-pik a little about your use of nomenclature. No offence intended, and I don't think I'm being a grammar Nazi. You know I'm pulling for you. I want you to get things straightened out, and I really enjoy your thoughtful threads and your great pictures. So, what you're calling the "head" is not the head. It is the valve cover, AKA, the Cylinder Head Cover (as it is termed on the parts fiches).

The part of the engine below the Cylinder Head Cover is the Head. The Head is where the valves are, where your spark plugs screw into, where your intake boots are, and where your exhaust it bolted to.

None taken, I enjoy learning the correct terms. I assumed "head" was shorthand for cylinder head. I lack the lexicon for these things in Norwegian too, so that makes it even harder to get it right.

Got the old gasket out, is outlining the parts I could salavage and about to cut it.

Should I put something on the gasket or just use the gasket itself?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

None taken, I enjoy learning the correct terms. I assumed "head" was shorthand for cylinder head. I lack the lexicon for these things in Norwegian too, so that makes it even harder to get it right.

Got the old gasket out, is outlining the parts I could salavage and about to cut it.

Should I put something on the gasket or just use the gasket itself?

"head" IS short for cylinder head. But what you removed is the Cylinder Head COVER. COVER is the word your missing that is the distinction between the 2 parts. No comment on what, if anything, to put on your home cut gasket. I've had them fail with a little WD-40 on them, and I've had them fail dry. But I'm fairly certain that both were due to too much torque on the bolts holding down the cylinder head cover. I suppose it depends on what the material is. Others hopefully will have some advice for you.