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what did you wrench on today??

Finally got around to tidying up some wiring. Replaced the cheap, build-your-own SH775 connectors with the good ones from Triumph, and replaced the old broken fuse box plug with a new block and terminal ends from Vintage Connections.

out with the old:
ledBvJ1h.jpg


in with the new:
hB16zJPh.jpg
 
Yesterday I pulled the OEM intercooler and piping out of the Abarth....



Quite a few panel fasteners involved....



Today, the new one goes in...

 
cowboyup3371 said:
I'll move my work and personal computers into the office tomorrow then give my old desk to my youngest son since he'll be doing more remote classwork. I also need to build him a new computer since my younger daughter's laptop really isn't doing the job anymore.
Click to expand...

Building a new computer can be fun. I regard MS Windows 10, and its latest browser, as malware. Meaning that they are designed, from the ground up, to spy on users. Good luck!
 
Went and checked out a KLR650 for my brother today. He's picking it up on Thursday. I'll wait until summer to get one.
 
themess said:
Building a new computer can be fun. I regard MS Windows 10, and its latest browser, as malware. Meaning that they are designed, from the ground up, to spy on users. Good luck!
Click to expand...

I have built several over the years and I agree Edge is crap. I made the move to Firefox on my home system last year and Chrome at work a few months ago.
 
Applied some Supertrapp muffling to the output of the Delkevic silencer.
It's not what you would call quiet, but it's knocked the noise down a lot, and I notice that around 3 to 4K it goes through a relatively quiet period, so that will be good for in-town riding.
Excuse the rubbish welding, my back was killing me bending over the makeshift bench.











 
Having fun this weekend trying to get the head off the Kat so I can swap in my freshly rebuilt one. The manual says "lift the head straight up". Yeah right! I've tried the rubber mallet on the non-finned areas as well but no joy yet. The struggle continues.
 
Pete, I've never had any luck with a rubber mallet for anything, but hammering on a wooden dowel/stick upward at select locations all round can do it...A short piece of lumber can serve as a wooden mallet too...very last resort! can be a sharp chisel gently at select places all-round ..ie where there's lots of "meat"
 
Ah I didn't come back to this thread this morning, but yes my experience with rubber mallets has been exactly the same, not helpful at all! I did manage to get it separated from the cylinders last night exactly as you say using a bit of timber. I haven't removed it yet as I'll need to rope a second set of hands in this morning, but the hammer and timber most definitely got the seal broken and ready to remove.
 
I have a 40+ yo mallet, rubber on one face, hard plastic on the other. B0th sides have been very useful to me over the decades.
 
I ended up using a soft bit of timber and a lump hammer, problem was solved pretty quickly with no damage to the head :)

Head's now all swapped out and looking good, update in my Kat thread if you're overly keen.
 
Re-assembled the carbs on the skunk this morning. (After 4 days of cleaning.)

It's a whole lot of fun when you get a set of carbs already broken down in a box!

Amazingly, they were all there, minus the circlips that go on the choke plunger rods.
 
Installed the carbs on the skunk today. Stuck a battery in it and connected the auxillary fuel tank. Guess what...IT'S ALIVE!:cool:

It actually sounded pretty good! Idles well and revs like it should. Love the sound of the Kerker! No smoke or unusual loud engine noises. Shifts thru the gears like it should. Most of the electrics seem to be working.

Guess I'll have to get it road-worthy now!:)
 
A while back my speedo needle started bouncing and eventually quit moving alltogether. Replaced it with another and it was good for a thousand miles or so, now it's doing the same thing. This time I pried open the bezel to clean and lube everything inside before it's totally shot.

It was a bit gunked up but not too bad.



After a good spritz of carb cleaner and some lithiumm grease, I reassembled it. After a good three hour ride tonight, the needle is pretty steady with a tiny bounce around 80mph.
 
That's a good job. What did you use to pretty is the bezel? I've tried this a couple of times before to address speedo and tacho problems (dirty faces, needle) and have made a mess of the bezels. I found the steel bezel crimping to stuff to move without a screwdriver but the edges were too sharp to stretch the metal without distortion.
 
LeT said:
That's a good job. What did you use to pretty is the bezel? I've tried this a couple of times before to address speedo and tacho problems (dirty faces, needle) and have made a mess of the bezels. I found the steel bezel crimping to stuff to move without a screwdriver but the edges were too sharp to stretch the metal without distortion.
Click to expand...

So, the original speedo with the white plastic housing (in the background in my pic) was too difficult to pry open, plus it was shot and not worh the effort. The replacement unit has an orange housing and the metal wasn't crimped nearly as tightly. I was able to pry against the orange housing with a flat blade screwdriver working my way around. After reassembling it, the thick rubber gasket hid most of the chipped finish on the metal bezel.

I'm not sure what model or year the orange speedo came from. Bought it from another member who said it was from an "L".
 
Burque73 said:
So, the original speedo with the white plastic housing (in the background in my pic) was too difficult to pry open, plus it was shot and not worh the effort. The replacement unit has an orange housing and the metal wasn't crimped nearly as tightly. I was able to pry against the orange housing with a flat blade screwdriver working my way around. After reassembling it, the thick rubber gasket hid most of the chipped finish on the metal bezel.

I'm not sure what model or year the orange speedo came from. Bought it from another member who said it was from an "L".
Click to expand...

as a CAUTION: I'd love to find and orange tachometer one for my 1981 GSX400E....the White ones (very common) do not fit the housing...

De crimping definitely stretches the metal and is impossible to re-shrink-crimp perfectly in my skillset...sigh
An OPTION is to CUT the ring, drill tiny holes and cinch the ends back together with a twisted wire 'buckle" where it can least be seen.. It's also far from perfect and is harder to re-assemble but is worth a try if you have a sacrificial spare?
 
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