what did you wrench on today??

[wymple]

Checking the stator today. Bad news, it failed the test.

Looks like it is shopping time for a new one.

Any suggestions as to which brand and where to buy from? Thanks.

I bought an ebay Caltric and have had no problems. I added the SH775 (genuine) at the same time.

 

[wymple]

"And of course after install with one last head bolt to go...can you see the "u-joint" that connects the engine guard?"

Yup. I also see a missing exhaust bolt.....

 

[Buffalo Bill]

The basic idea is courtesy of Salty Monk, but the GK has the fatter forks so I doubted that the brackets he sells would work. Calipers and Master cylinder were from Ebay. The CBR600 disks are aftermarket "Metal Gear" (for no reason other than thats what was available at the time.) The PCD of the Honda bolts is the same as Suzuki, but the holes need to be enlarged to Suzi bolt size. Caliper mounts are Concours, with additional piece welded on (professional welder and tested/certified afterwards).Everything aligned nicely afterward with the calipers right in position over the disks with no shimming necessary. The master cylinder is nice with the span adjustable lever.Calipers rebuilt with new seals and pads. All in all, a successful swap

Very interesting, your choice of components came from your parts pile?
I've only had very rare sudden stops on my GS1100G, but the longer stopping distance of the OEM system was obvious.

 

[Guest]

I replaced my spark plugs, and changed my choke cable for a new one (the threads of the old one was torn off). I also oiled everything that I could remember needs oiling. I am going to test the spark plugs tomorrow (a neighboer is sleeping in a caravan near so I don't want to noise around midnight).

 

[Peter#1266]

Very interesting, your choice of components came from your parts pile?
I've only had very rare sudden stops on my GS1100G, but the longer stopping distance of the OEM system was obvious.

Not from a parts pile, Salty Monk has an article on uprating the brakes, but he is dealing with the standard GS range. The GK has fatter forks. However the basic idea of CBR rotors and Concours caiipers is his. I found a complete Concours set on Ebay which included the mounting brackets, so it was just a matter of fabricating the extensions to mate them to the Suzuki forks. The original brakes were ok as far as they go, but after having sampled modern brakes on my sons Street Triple they then felt horribly inadequate.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

A friend came by Thurs an Friday, did some welding for me on my track bike exhaust.
Cleaned up my sloppy DIY work. Thanks a bunch!
I'll be over at his house next week building a trap door to his basement, that's our deal.
I only known him and his family since 1963. His mom was one of our Cub Scout Den Mothers.

 

[dorkburger]

Is there a class or noise restriction that restricts you to a stock type of exhaust? Looks like aot of weight there.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Is there a class or noise restriction that restricts you to a stock type of exhaust? Looks like aot of weight there.

Nope, but a few fitment issues with what's available. I'm using OEM GSX1100F Katana headers. I like duals because they fit snug up to the oil pan for maximum ground clearance and symmetrical balance.
The GSXR has a different placement for the front lower cross brace, the GSXR headers are obstructed by the lower cross brace on my modified Katana.
There's a Delkevic 4>1 system for the Katana GSX1100F, but less ground clearance, plus I'd need to buy the Bandit oil pan.
A Bandit system may fit but I'd have to buy it plus the Bandit oil pan to find out.
These headers only cost me $40! That was/is the deal maker. The slip-ons were $50 each.
Weight difference; 5 lb at most, plus that's at ground level.
As I become a better rider, the bike is leaving behind everything below 1000cc on the track.

 

[dorkburger]

Understood. I'm not too familiar with the oil cooled range, but now that you mention it, over at OSS, requests and info for different oil pans come up fairly regularly for the oilcooled engines.

Glad to hear that your track work is improving.

 

[Baatfam]

Originally posted May 17th, 2019...

Finally made a stab at fixing the broken tabs on my tail piece....
When I first bought this bike, back in '05, all four were broken.
Someone had tried to epoxy them before, but poorly, and the whole thing was held together with zip ties.

After I got the zip ties, old epoxy, peeling paint, dirt, and whatnot off the parts, I "tacked" them in place with a small amount of epoxy.
I carefully measured the location and angles off a good tailpiece I have (in champagne color), as the originals were missing quite a bit of material.

I laced the pieces together with some wire and spent three days building up layers of metal reinforced epoxy.



Not the prettiest thing, but I think it should hold....

Bob, that ain't gonna hold for long. Epoxy has to be reinforced with layers of fiberglass cloth, or for that fitting, some sheet steel.

And yet....Here we are two full years later. All four mounts are as solid as ever, not even a crack.

Pre-Brown County inspection today....

 

[Baatfam]

At least I have help today....

 

[Carter Turk]

Hey Bill,

Since you don't care for 4-1's, thought I'd still mention I have a Yosh duplex header, with the little can exchangers on the pipe from a 1990 GSXR 1100.

I paid $225 shipped, black header/surface rust/slight dents in collector, better than fair condition, thought it might work on the 1150, seems to actually clear the oil

pan, but would have required some tweaking, at the exhaust manifold spigots & maybe the collector. I'm not capable of carrying out these tweaks, but might be

clean n easy on an oil cooled Kat.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Hey Bill,

Since you don't care for 4-1's, thought I'd still mention I have a Yosh duplex header, with the little can exchangers on the pipe from a 1990 GSXR 1100.

I paid $225 shipped, black header/surface rust/slight dents in collector, better than fair condition, thought it might work on the 1150, seems to actually clear the oil

pan, but would have required some tweaking, at the exhaust manifold spigots & maybe the collector. I'm not capable of carrying out these tweaks, but might be

clean n easy on an oil cooled Kat.

Thanks, but when I made the conversion from 750 to 1100 I bought a 4>1 header but the lower front cross brace obstructed the header pipes from reaching the head by more than an inch.
Yeah I was disappointed.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Hey Bill,

Since you don't care for 4-1's, thought I'd still mention I have a Yosh duplex header, with the little can exchangers on the pipe from a 1990 GSXR 1100.

I paid $225 shipped, black header/surface rust/slight dents in collector, better than fair condition, thought it might work on the 1150, seems to actually clear the oil

pan, but would have required some tweaking, at the exhaust manifold spigots & maybe the collector. I'm not capable of carrying out these tweaks, but might be

clean n easy on an oil cooled Kat.

Thanks, but when I made the conversion from 750 to 1100 I bought a 4>1 header but the lower front cross brace obstructed the header pipes from reaching the head by more than an inch.
Yeah I was disappointed, but that's the trial and error of modifying a vehicle. With a bigger budget I would have bought a few systems and tried them all.

 

[Baatfam]

Changed the plugs on the GS...LOL....

 

[alke46]

Looks like a couple of hours on the buffer's wire wheel and re-check the gap and those plugs still have some miles left on them.

Bring them to Brown County and soak them for a while in some of Neil's magic elixir and they will be good as new.

 

[Baatfam]

Looks like a couple of hours on the buffer's wire wheel and re-check the gap and those plugs still have some miles left on them.

Bring them to Brown County and soak them for a while in some of Neil's magic elixir and they will be good as new.

Sure, they'll buff right out...LOL...
Gaps were still good, it ran fine, just got tired of looking at them. Fixed for $12....

 

[Wingsconsin]

It goes bad so quickly

It goes bad so quickly

I went out for a good shakedown ride of about 100 miles
When I returned I noticed the rear rotor was pretty warm (I routinely touch the rotors to check temps)
It was HOT = not melt your plastic hot - but too hot to hold on to -

BRAKE DRAG ! Unreal I thought to my self - It was only last year I changed the fluids --

After checking my records -- it was September of 2019 ...

So I grabbed my Mity-Vac and a fresh can of Brake Fluid and sucked it through - all nice and clean now --
After a 25 mile ride which was shortened by impending rain the rear rotor was now fine -
PS: I did the fronts as well because I had the stuff out and ready to use

Here are some pictures of the REMOVED fluid --
1 riding season old -

 

[steve murdoch]

Original brake lines? I wonder if the fluid is being contaminated by disintegrating lines?

 

[Wingsconsin]

Original brake lines? I wonder if the fluid is being contaminated by disintegrating lines?

Nope --
I put on new stainless steel lines at the time of the last change --
I guess it's just something I need to stay on top of - maintenance wise ---