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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
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I was able to replicate it with the simulator. It's really an odd problem. The simulator drives a fixed signal into the ECM. The logger shows the quantization noise but that's it. The cluster on the other hand just wanders. The other bad cluster had the stepper driver fail. Maybe this is a similar problem. I found a few damaged clusters that I hope to scavenge to repair the two problem clusters. One looks like it was in a fire crash, the other had hardly anything left. As long as the ICs are still alright, I should be able to use the. In the mean time, the last working one was donated to the bike for now.
I wasn't aware TI bought Pierburg, but now that the electronics, fuel pump and motor are sorted, time to start putting it back together.
I wasn't aware TI bought Pierburg, but now that the electronics, fuel pump and motor are sorted, time to start putting it back together.
Ferrite beads on the signal wires? Suppression ignition wires?
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Ferrite would normally be used for higher frequencies. The simulator doesn't really have ignition wires. It uses a custom wound pot core to simulate the coils. The ECM reads the analog signals and then sends that data to the cluster over a digital serial bus. The cluster then decodes that information and drives the various gauges. These are mostly stepper motors. So basically its all digital.
Because it is digital, I can sniff the serial bus with a PC and some software, basically making my own cluster. When I look at the data the ECM sends out, it's fine. Everything on the bad cluster is stable except for the coolant temp.
When the gauge is first powered up, each gauge's needle will go to their maximum position, then to their minimum as a sort of self test. There are no problems during this self test. This particular GS (gen 1, K6) uses the temperature gauge to warn the driver of a problem. Don't ask me why they did it this way. If the check error is displayed, the coolant temperature gauge will read max but the over temp LED will remain off. I guess it was done because the driver may not notice the CHEK on the LCD but the over temp may get your attention. This all seems to work correctly.
In this case, there are no faults and the coolant temperature acts like an analog gauge, moving around.
The tachometer on the other bad cluster is the problem. I can heat the stepper controller and it will start to work but it's not a soldering problem. It appears the IC itself has gone bad. Once I get the junker cluster, I will try and sort it out.
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Guessing someone died on the bike this one came from. That's some major damage. The circuit board was damaged with several components tore from it. The main controller IC is cracked right down the middle. Still, a lot of good parts and that stepper controller is what I needed to repair the first cluster. Lucky, that side of the cluster was not damaged. The one needing repairs was made prior to them conformal coating the boards. Made it easy to swap out the controller. Appears to be 100% functional now. Plan to let it run for a few hours and then will have a look at the other cluster. 
Changed the oil and filter in our 2011 Dodge Durango....7 quarts of synthetic oil, plus filter.
Went OK, but my drain pans don't hold seven quarts of oil, so I had to use two and swap half way through. Messy.
Also, changing the filter resulted in several cuts from the plastic under tray....Cool!!
Went OK, but my drain pans don't hold seven quarts of oil, so I had to use two and swap half way through. Messy.
Also, changing the filter resulted in several cuts from the plastic under tray....Cool!!
Chasing down the overheating gremlin...
Start from first principles and check ignition timing - I had a suspicion the bob weights were worn or the springs weak. Nope, nothing there - it advances properly at the right time and doesn't advance past the advance mark. However, I found the ignition was slightly advanced statically, so there's that - only about 2 or 3 degrees however.
Back to the carburettion - I'd fitted a fairly rich needle, but it was obviously too rich going by the smells, never mind the AFR (that was ok, actually). Better to err on the side of a bit of richness rather than run it lean for too long, while avoiding the bogey of bore-wash at the same time.
Fitted a leaner needle and it's happier, but won't know for sure until it's out on the road this week.
Checked cylinder compressions - 145, 146, 148, 150psi. All good.
The bugger never overheated prior to the top-end overhaul and there's only one thing majorly different still to change - the Delko exhaust. I have an almost new Motad chrome steel 4-1 that I was saving for a rainy day. Or I could put the old stainless Motad back on it, but the downpipes are paper-thin. Don't anyone believe anybody who tells you stainless doesn't rot away - it does, just takes 30 years to do it.
Start from first principles and check ignition timing - I had a suspicion the bob weights were worn or the springs weak. Nope, nothing there - it advances properly at the right time and doesn't advance past the advance mark. However, I found the ignition was slightly advanced statically, so there's that - only about 2 or 3 degrees however.
Back to the carburettion - I'd fitted a fairly rich needle, but it was obviously too rich going by the smells, never mind the AFR (that was ok, actually). Better to err on the side of a bit of richness rather than run it lean for too long, while avoiding the bogey of bore-wash at the same time.
Fitted a leaner needle and it's happier, but won't know for sure until it's out on the road this week.
Checked cylinder compressions - 145, 146, 148, 150psi. All good.
The bugger never overheated prior to the top-end overhaul and there's only one thing majorly different still to change - the Delko exhaust. I have an almost new Motad chrome steel 4-1 that I was saving for a rainy day. Or I could put the old stainless Motad back on it, but the downpipes are paper-thin. Don't anyone believe anybody who tells you stainless doesn't rot away - it does, just takes 30 years to do it.
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Finished up my cluster repairs. I left the oldest one stock. I forgot how inaccurate these are.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epdQlV8dfss
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epdQlV8dfss
Have to Heli-Coil some of the valve cover screw holes on my '83 GS750SE. I think the threads were made of paper. New top cover gasket. I found a used top cover that I am going to have blasted, and have a crinkle finish blue powder coating put on. My son wants to do and pay for it. Similar to what Ferrari. I got the valve cover for $24 bucks!! 
Not a bike, but still a special machine to me. I got my late fathers' 1976 Ariens Rocket 7 rototiller running again!
It had only been sitting for about 25 years!
Had to replace the points, condenser and carb on it and clean the fuel tank.(Thankfully it is plastic.) After a few minor adjustments it's running as good as new after all these years.
I have lots of good memories of the times we spent together using this machine. Might do a full blown restoration on it this winter.
It had only been sitting for about 25 years!Had to replace the points, condenser and carb on it and clean the fuel tank.(Thankfully it is plastic.) After a few minor adjustments it's running as good as new after all these years.
I have lots of good memories of the times we spent together using this machine. Might do a full blown restoration on it this winter.
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It is just toying with you. It will leave you stranded soon...
More of a "what did your friend wrench on for you today" entry: bwringer kindly mounted up a fresh Shinko 009 Raven on the front wheel of my Bandit 1200, I brought some six packs (of diet Pepsi) and a new tire lube-brush as bribes/offerings. With that and some cosmetic repairs, my Bandit is back in commission after my little low-side down in the Smokeys last month. Thanks again Brian!
I was hoping you'd show off that beauty over here, Mario
Been chasing a low-rpm/pilot circuit stumble caused by a rich condition on my '78 XS1100. Complicated by the fact that I'm running a set of '80 Special carbs (on the right), with some minor differences from the original '78 carbs (on the left). The '78 carbs that are original to the bike came to me as a jumbled up pile of loose parts and I've rebuilt them with correct stock jets, new brass fuel tees, etc. And only then did I realize that the idle mixture screw orifices were all messed up and wallowed out on 3 of the four carbs (some previous owner likely broke the mixture screws off in them and then went about extracting the tips). I actually dropped some solder down into the enlarged holes and redrilled them with a .85mm micro drill bit (a bit larger than stock unfortunately), and ordered up some new OEM mixture screws and am now attempting to use the original '78 carbs on the bike. A bench leak test with fuel revealed some float valve leaking issues on the '78s so I'll be messing with them more tonight.
Over the past three years I've become rather intimately familiar with Mikuni BS CV carbs.... maybe a bit *TOO* familiar for my own liking!
Over the past three years I've become rather intimately familiar with Mikuni BS CV carbs.... maybe a bit *TOO* familiar for my own liking!
I've finally solved the "Flsher" problem on my bike. It was of my own making some many decades ago. Apparently in that fuse spot, the fuse has "Flasher" written on it. I put in a circuit breaker. When I tried to convert the bike to LEDs, I thought this was the flasher unit, as it clicked with the lights. Putting a 10 amp fuse in it's place solve the "No Lights" issue, and Lo and Behold, I found the actual Flasher Relay on the other side of the bike, which flashed along with the circuit breaker. I must have done this over 30 years ago. I just don't remember doing this, but since I'm the only one who works on the bike, I probably stuck that Fuse/Circuit breaker so in case I blew a few, it would reset, I just don't remember the circumstance.
Everything is working as it should, and I have mounted the LED lights on the front. I'll probably mount the two rear, but the Resistor to jump those lights cost around $16 bucks a piece, "Ouch!". That was one big circle I just went through, but at least I came away with a better understanding.
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Everything is working as it should, and I have mounted the LED lights on the front. I'll probably mount the two rear, but the Resistor to jump those lights cost around $16 bucks a piece, "Ouch!". That was one big circle I just went through, but at least I came away with a better understanding.
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