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What is the correct way to fix this connector?

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Guest

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I pulled this connector underneath the gas tank apart to clean it, It split in two at the male connector (that goes up to the right handlebar control start/kill) and the female connector is also damaged by heat. What is the correct way to fix this, specifically the female connector because its going in the wiring harness. The handlebar start control switch I might be able to purchase the whole assembly from ebay so that would be simple.

Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

Ebay control switch

https://www.ebay.com/p/1130136715?i...MIvO_li6qs5QIVF6SzCh0k2wMKEAQYByABEgL_jvD_BwE
 
If it was mine, I would replace the connector housing. :-k

Connectors are available from vintageconnectors.com and a few other places. Using a small, pointy tool, you can release the pins from the plastic connector, clean them up and put them in the new plastic connector. No loss of length and everything will be good for another 35 years or so. :encouragement:

While you are there, check out some of the other connector styles, you can replace most of the damaged ones on your bike.

You can also get their crimping tool and terminal release tool (the small, pointy thing mentioned earlier) to make wiring easier. If your terminals are in decent shape, you won't need the crimpers, but if you do as much wiring as I do, they are a good investment.

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Had the same issue but much worse. The connector had melted partially. Got a replacement handlebar switch unit from a scrappy which I needed anyway because someone had fixed the old one.
Were the support straps for the harness still there or had they rusted through and dropped the harness?
 
Heat damage caused by the infamous "stator loop" that runs up to the hand control. As detailed in the Newbie Mistakes thread fixing the wiring should be considered mandatory since your main harness could melt down if not fixed properly.
 
If it was mine, I would replace the connector housing. :-k

Connectors are available from vintageconnectors.com and a few other places. Using a small, pointy tool, you can release the pins from the plastic connector, clean them up and put them in the new plastic connector. No loss of length and everything will be good for another 35 years or so. :encouragement:

While you are there, check out some of the other connector styles, you can replace most of the damaged ones on your bike.

You can also get their crimping tool and terminal release tool (the small, pointy thing mentioned earlier) to make wiring easier. If your terminals are in decent shape, you won't need the crimpers, but if you do as much wiring as I do, they are a good investment.

.

Thanks Steve. I couldn't really find any other damaged ones from what I saw, I'm just going to replace the one connector and keep an eye on the others (might be smart to eventually replace them all if they get weak overtime?)
 
Heat damage caused by the infamous "stator loop" that runs up to the hand control. As detailed in the Newbie Mistakes thread fixing the wiring should be considered mandatory since your main harness could melt down if not fixed properly.

Ill be fixing that issue as soon as I rebuild the carbs and get the tank back on. Besides the loop and SH755(I have R/R just need the link lead to install?) and cleaning corroded grounds/connections is there any specific area that will be a mandatory wiring repair? I've read on motorcyclememoir.com that the writer says the gs850, from the factory does not even have the correct size wires in certain areas. Is that something I should look into?
 
I've read on motorcyclememoir.com that the writer says the gs850, from the factory does not even have the correct size wires in certain areas. Is that something I should look into?
I would be interested in finding out what he feels is inadequate. So many of us either have had or currently have an 850 (or three), with virtually no reports of problems attributed to inadequate wire size.
dunno.gif


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Electrical System


To start, the electrical system had to be revamped as the GS line of Suzuki had some major charging and electrical problems from the get go. Somehow, thirty years ago, Suzuki engineers didn’t compensate for the normal wear and tear on these bikes, and to cut costs they skimped on many standards such as adequate voltage regulator or even the correct size wires. For example, there was not a single relay to be found on the electrical system of this motorcycle. The wirings were way too small to efficiently carry the currents without significant voltage drops. So I ended up rewiring and modifying it correctly, adding five relays to various points of the system, along with an oversized voltage regulator. A relay has been added to the ignition system to direct the full current of the battery to the coils for stronger spark and cleaner combustion. An auxiliary 12V power supply has been added right on the handle bar for running and charging small electronics. A 100W power inverter has been installed under the tail for charging my laptop on the road, complete with a remote switch at the handlebar. Horns have been replaced with new 260 db blasters that scare even me every time I use them. I rewired them to function with the ignition off for security reasons. Tail, head and brake lights have been rewired to be able to be turned off on demand while riding; this is to be able to “ghost ride” (i.e. all lights off) to ultimately escape a pursuer in case of a hostile night chase. The headlight was replaced with all metal housing chrome bucket and an H4 halogen lamp. Turn signals have been replaced with round Suzuki signals for ease of locating spare lenses and at last, two high powered halogen fog lights were installed on the forks more lighting power.
 
"hostile night chase"? I didn't know James Bond nor Jason Bourne rode 30 year old motorcycles...
 
I remember his days of posting here, but I'm still curious where in his writings he says the wiring is inadequate.
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Well, the stator loop qualifies as "inadequate wiring" in my book. As far as traveling around the world goes, he made it to south america but don't think he went further. Anybody know where he wound up?
 
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Well, the stator loop qualifies as "inadequate wiring" in my book....

Same.

I'd also argue that the wiring to the headlight is somewhat undersized and the headlight connector is designed to fail.

The most egregious GS wiring issue after the stator loop (IMnsHO) is the many bullet connectors. These are doomed to fail.

The fact that all the connectors on a GS are open to the weather is also a problem, especially to those of us riding them 40 years later. (Admittedly, this is well beyond any conceivable design life...)

And Suzuki is still up to their old tricks on modern computer-controlled fuel injected Suzukis; they have mostly abandoned bullet connectors (aside from some turn signals) and most of the engine control connectors are sealed, but there are still many problematic unsealed connectors and examples of badly undersized wiring, connectors, and switch contacts sprinkled around their bikes. I honestly don't understand why the folks in Hamamatsu still can't seem to build reliable electrics after five or six decades in the biz.
 
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