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When is a tank too far gone?

would a alloy one be lighter as you would need to use thicker martials

Yes.....the alloy tanks are alot lighter than the stock steel tanks. Material thickness on tanks i've built in the past are in the .060" range, with racing gas tanks alot thinner.

The gas tank below was built for a CB350 race bike and was pretty thin alloy and had a rolled recess on the top of the tank for the tank strap.
onbike4.jpg
 
Yes.....the alloy tanks are alot lighter than the stock steel tanks. Material thickness on tanks i've built in the past are in the .060" range, with racing gas tanks alot thinner.

The gas tank below was built for a CB350 race bike and was pretty thin alloy and had a rolled recess on the top of the tank for the tank strap.
onbike4.jpg

learn something new everyday. great looking tank
 
finally got the "swiss cheese" tank out of the acid bath. Here is a pic from the inside...it is like this almost everywhere.

picture.php


Instead of trying all that welding and soldering I decided to just tape it ALL up and put a thick coat of Caswell liner in it. I will use bondo or fiberglass and bondo when finishing the exterior of the tank.

picture.php



picture.php



I think I may keep looking for a better candidate, but for now I may just paint the outside with primer to stop the rust, and put it on the shelf with a note attached to myself to do another liner and finish the exterior before using : )
 
Any luck on this tank with the Caswell liner....updates??

I did one coat because that is all of the Caswells I had at the time. I just received a kit I won on ebay, and actually the guy went ahead and sent me a second kit as well.

I want to do at least two coats, so I will be possibly doing that this weekend. I will try to post pics but I am pictorially challenged right now.
 
I did one coat because that is all of the Caswells I had at the time. I just received a kit I won on ebay, and actually the guy went ahead and sent me a second kit as well.

I want to do at least two coats, so I will be possibly doing that this weekend. I will try to post pics but I am pictorially challenged right now.

Why two coats? Isnt it super thick after the first one?
 
Why two coats? Isnt it super thick after the first one?

It is super thick on the bottom (even that big hole covered very well.... because I let it sit right side up after swirling do that the base would be very strong.

It is not necessarily super thick everywhere. As you roll it around it just leaves a film. I don't know how many mils thick, but with that "starry night" tank, I want to be absolutely certain it is completely covered.
 
Why two coats? Isnt it super thick after the first one?
I know when I applied mine, the Caswell instructions actually tell you to split the kit and apply two thin coats out of the single kit. That way if any area is missed during the first application...the 2nd application will cover the missed areas. Maybe that is what he is describing.
 
It is super thick on the bottom (even that big hole covered very well.... because I let it sit right side up after swirling do that the base would be very strong.

It is not necessarily super thick everywhere. As you roll it around it just leaves a film. I don't know how many mils thick, but with that "starry night" tank, I want to be absolutely certain it is completely covered.

Yeah I did the same thing. Bottom of my tank was nothing but holes and wanted a thicker lining down there.
 
When there are a LOT of tiny holes it means there is further damage to the tank in terms of thickness.......ALL of it is weakened and the holes are just the worst spots.

A fairly simple cover can be done with woven fibreglass cloth.

You will need to strip the tank completely, then sand it so the surface will accept the resin, then paint it with liquid resin and lay the fibreglass cloth in place. Once partly set you paint additional resin over the cloth.


Yes, paint it....use a cheap paint brush to do it. Several brushes will be needed .

Once it is all done, sand it and put a second layer of cloth over it, just a bit larger in area than the first, so the edges will bond onto metal.

Let it cure, then sand and finish the tank.



The cloth will trim to any shape and stretch to any angle or bend.


You can get the cloth and liquid resin at any marine/boat repair shop

Auto body repair items are available as well, but most stores will only have kits, with limited amounts of cloth at high prices...


Wear disposable gloves and eye protection when working with it.
 
When there are a LOT of tiny holes it means there is further damage to the tank in terms of thickness.......ALL of it is weakened and the holes are just the worst spots.

A fairly simple cover can be done with woven fibreglass cloth.

You will need to strip the tank completely, then sand it so the surface will accept the resin, then paint it with liquid resin and lay the fibreglass cloth in place. Once partly set you paint additional resin over the cloth.


Yes, paint it....use a cheap paint brush to do it. Several brushes will be needed .

Once it is all done, sand it and put a second layer of cloth over it, just a bit larger in area than the first, so the edges will bond onto metal.

Let it cure, then sand and finish the tank.



The cloth will trim to any shape and stretch to any angle or bend.


You can get the cloth and liquid resin at any marine/boat repair shop

Auto body repair items are available as well, but most stores will only have kits, with limited amounts of cloth at high prices...


Wear disposable gloves and eye protection when working with it.

I will have to cloth the entire tank. The fiberglass cloth I have worked with before would make the tank much thicker and is messy because it falls apart and bunches up.

I was already considering painting caswells on the surface then grinding it back smooth. I have some fumed silica I can add as a thickener.
 
I will have to cloth the entire tank. The fiberglass cloth I have worked with before would make the tank much thicker and is messy because it falls apart and bunches up.

I was already considering painting caswells on the surface then grinding it back smooth. I have some fumed silica I can add as a thickener.


Adding material does tend to make things thicker, but it is likely only the lower half of the tank would need it.

When completed, sanded and finished, chances are very good no one would notice unless you told them about it.


Agreed, the cloth can be frustrating because it does stretch and fray, so it is usually best to cut it to shape with scissors, try it out on the dry surface, then put it in place.

To avoid bunching, I suggest painting the resin on the tank first, then laying on the cloth. It can be spread and/or stretched with the brush and the result will be smooth. Once it is in place the scissors can be used to trim excess.

A final coat of resin will increase the thickness a bit more, but it will fill the last depressions and provide a surface that can be sanded as smooth as the original metal, ready for painting.

You will have to clean the scissors to remove the liquid resin, but that is a simple job.
 
Hi guys, anyone had a situation where someone has used a sealer on the inside of the tank which has started to laminate and flake off? I had my fuel cap off the first time since buying it and the tank innards look like the inside of an old tin of paint?n ill try and get some pics up tomorrow if I can remember how to post them lol. Any thoughts? :)
 
Hi guys, anyone had a situation where someone has used a sealer on the inside of the tank which has started to laminate and flake off? I had my fuel cap off the first time since buying it and the tank innards look like the inside of an old tin of paint?n ill try and get some pics up tomorrow if I can remember how to post them lol. Any thoughts? :)


It is not uncommon to see that happen..

If the outside of the tank is not fully repaired and properly sealed, then rust continues and creeps inside, where it lifts away any coating as it spreads, eventually causing splits in the coating due to flex, and further weakens the tank.

That is why it is VERY important to do a total repair on the tank before use.
 
It is not uncommon to see that happen..

If the outside of the tank is not fully repaired and properly sealed, then rust continues and creeps inside, where it lifts away any coating as it spreads, eventually causing splits in the coating due to flex, and further weakens the tank.

That is why it is VERY important to do a total repair on the tank before use.


Ok thanks for the advice. Il have to get the inside cleaned out using one of the many methods available then re seal it. Cheers, Steve
 
Ok thanks for the advice. Il have to get the inside cleaned out using one of the many methods available then re seal it. Cheers, Steve

It might be in your best interest to look for a professional gasoline/petrol tank repair outlet.

A solid alternative would be radiator repair shop.


They can PROFESSIONALLY clean and refurbish your tank, PLUS they give a guarantee for their work.


I have no idea at all why so many people insist on POR, etc., when a professional alternative costs very little more, is SO much easier, AND you get a guarantee.

My 1100G tank was done by a professional gasoline tank repair shop (Gas Tank Renu, in Toronto) and it cost about $80. At the time (2000) Kreem was selling for about $60 to $70. per kit.

GasTankRenu cleaned the tank with glass beads, blew it out, washed it out, dried it thoroughly and then gave it a very good interior coating which they guaranteed......in writing.....for two years. I never had a problem with it.

Some radiator shops will do the same thing.


This is one repair job that I would STRONGLY recommend you have done professionally. The cost difference between professional work, with a guarantee, versus DIY is insignificant, but the difference in value is huge.
 
It might be in your best interest to look for a professional gasoline/petrol tank repair outlet.

A solid alternative would be radiator repair shop.


They can PROFESSIONALLY clean and refurbish your tank, PLUS they give a guarantee for their work.


I have no idea at all why so many people insist on POR, etc., when a professional alternative costs very little more, is SO much easier, AND you get a guarantee.

My 1100G tank was done by a professional gasoline tank repair shop (Gas Tank Renu, in Toronto) and it cost about $80. At the time (2000) Kreem was selling for about $60 to $70. per kit.

GasTankRenu cleaned the tank with glass beads, blew it out, washed it out, dried it thoroughly and then gave it a very good interior coating which they guaranteed......in writing.....for two years. I never had a problem with it.

Some radiator shops will do the same thing.


This is one repair job that I would STRONGLY recommend you have done professionally. The cost difference between professional work, with a guarantee, versus DIY is insignificant, but the difference in value is huge.


I did think about going the professional route but have perfect blue and white wes cooley paintwork and assumed it would be wrecked? :confused:
 
hi when you need a boilermaker to re-panel your tank its time to ditch it ,,,bite the bullet its far toooooooooooooo gone hunt around for a vgc and pay for it regards oldgrumpy
 
How long are you going to look for a tank? I waited four years, finally went with one from another model that fits ok. Patching holes makes sense if there are none better to be had.
 
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