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Wiring ground question
- Thread starter Smitty86
- Start date
So, you've got the big one for the starter return from the engine. That's great and it should be there. Just for a belt and braces approach, though you shouldn't need it, you can put a lighter wire between the battery neg post and the frame. Everything fitted on the bike should have it's own return circuit, even if amalgamated with others and commoned up into a heavier return to the battery.
Just don't connect say, blinker earths to the frame and trust they'll be all right, because eventually they won't.
Guest
Guest
The general feeling is wrong. Practically speaking, the frame has zero resistance to the currents involved in motorcycles.
True-Frame doesn't include swingarm and forks. Running current through greasy ball bearings or trying through rubber bushings is a bad idea. But you can trust the frame and engine to be a ground.
Our motorcycles commonly attach the battery negative to the engine and the engine is solidly bolted to the frame. Both are thereby good grounds.Cars likewise. How many people's cars are failing because the factory did this? None to few. Just ensure you use a clean bolt tightly onto (and into) a clean surface as the factory did.
The factories did it for cheapness, and yes, plenty failed after a couple of years of being exposed to weather.
Why are you arguing against the plain truth of the matter?
Better tell Boeing that.
You CAN reliably use a steel frame as a ground for power.
You CANNOT use an aluminum frame as a ground, whether it's a Boeing or a modern Suzuki.
Steel frames are OK for grounds for an analog on/off switch, but not for anything LIKE a sensor.... like in the voltage regulator
The problem with aluminum is aluminum oxide, which coats ALL aluminum and is a pretty good electrical insulator. Clean the aluminum, QUICKLY make the connection, then paint the connection to keep air away from it. Aluminum is about as good a conductor as copper (for our purposes)... it's the connections that are the problem.
