Wolo Horn

[posplayr]

EDIT 6/12/2015

I redid the test originally posted here. The data was taken with as 25 amp power supply and in taking another look it was highly likely the oscillations was an interaction between the Wolo and the Power supply. You will see at the bottom I redid the experiment this time with a well charged battery (even on a 2 amp setting of a 60 amp charger). I did the test two ways. Once with a standard 30/40 amp relay and the other using a single channel of the SSPB.

Basically what you see if the straight relay allows the Wolo to pull in excess of 50 amps for a short period of time while the motor spins up to speed. With the SSPB there is a current limit at about 14 amps and the motor is soft started. There is slightly less power going into the Wolo for the first 200 msec to reduce the current and as such it will probably be a little less loud for that time. However, there is dramatically reduce current flow and I feel pretty comfortable putting a Wolo on the AUX channel of the SSPB. My only concern is total current with light heaters and misc and then throwing a big 14 amps load into the mix.

I was able to do the SSPB testing using only a 15 amp fuse. I would guess give the smaller current draw, you actually can get away with a smaller main fuse with the SSPB whereas the relay might tend to blow the smaller fuses on motor spin up.

OLD POST


I did some testing to night on the cheapy Wolo horn I got off ebay for $24. It is load and the baffle part can be removed from the motor. This is an honest to garsh air horn and the motor spins right up.

Here is the start up current draw. In steady state in is about 15 amps but it peaks to 40 amps and oscillates before settling down in about 0.1 sec. The scope trace is 10 amps per vertical division and 50 msec per horizontal division.

I was contemplating running that through the SSPB 10 amps per channel but even the 15 amps will cause it to thermal limit. It requires a 30 amp relay with a 20 amp fuse for sure.

You can see here that even though it exceeds 20 amps, it doesn't blow the fuse because it is not over 20 amps for long enough to blow.

Original Wolo using a 25A/22A(Surge/Continuous) Pyramid PS26KX power supply. The power supply in combination with the lead inductance and the Wolo is oscillating pretty good and understating the actual peak current draw.

Updated tests using a 14 AmpHr battery . Now we see what really happens with the Wolo is started with a typical mechanical relay. On the right the Wolo is soft started using the SSPB 10amp channel. In a quarter of a sec it is down to a 10 amp steady state value.

 

[Dogma]

So, the biggest problem is finding a place to mount it?

 

[Guest]

I've installed them on 2 bikes I have without issue. They have been called a "come to Jesus horn" by those I have ridden with even the leader when riding as sweeper (6 man group).

Just run 16 gauge wire from the battery hot side through an inline 20 amp fuse to the relays switched power to the horn side with same wire gauge on the ground side of the relay to the frame and on the control side of the relay just wire in the old wires that went to the beeper the manufacturer called a horn and that's it. Just like the engine starter motor, I wouldn't run it through any other device, only direct wire from the battery through a relay.

I don't think the millisecond durational rise in current will matter greatly to the life span of the relay, automotive relays are cheap and can stick over time anyway. If there is any concern of arcing the relay then put the relay on an annual PM and just replace it each spring before riding season starts or just carry a spare with you like you do with spare fuses.

 

[tkent02]

The biggest problem is dodging cars after you honk it. They scatter every which way.

Good fun, if you're not in the way.

 

[Rob S.]

Stock 1100EZ horn

Stock 1100EZ horn

I'm not a big horn user, I prefer to just blip the throttle. But I'd like to keep my 1100e as stock as possible, and I've noticed that the left horn isn't working at all. Is it salvageable?

It can't be too expensive to replace. The only thing I can think of is to switch the wiring with the right side as a test.

 

[Nessism]

I'm not a big horn user, I prefer to just blip the throttle. But I'd like to keep my 1100e as stock as possible, and I've noticed that the left horn isn't working at all. Is it salvageable?

It can't be too expensive to replace. The only thing I can think of is to switch the wiring with the right side as a test.

Sorry, can't tell you if the horn is salvageable. I can say that cleaning the horn and tweaking the adjuster screw often wakes up sleeping horns. Give it a go and let us know how it turns out.

Regarding the Wolo horn, yup, it's loud. It's also huge. I briefly used one on my first 850 but took it off because I couldn't find a good place to put it.

 

[Larry D]

This is (was) my 81 GS750L.

 

[Nessism]

Blocking airflow to the head Larry. Not sure this matters but don't like the idea.

Nice looking bike (horn wart notwithstanding). Are those Mac pipes? They look clean. How as the sound?

 

[Larry D]

Minimal wind blockage, it certainly didn't seem to affect the engine temperature.

I sold that bike last August, it was a fantastic running machine, after I rebuilt it twice.....I miss it......

I think those are Mac pipes, I still have them, I could never find any identifying marks. They had been replaced by an original exhaust about a year before the bike was sold. It sounded a bit like a tin can, although, not terribly. The only problem with them, was that it didn't clear the kickstand and I could only use the centerstand, which is why I went in search of an original exhaust.

 

[tkent02]

Blocking airflow to the head Larry. Not sure this matters but don't like the idea.

Nice looking bike (horn wart notwithstanding). Are those Mac pipes? They look clean. How as the sound?

Just a little bit of airflow is enough to cool the engine, a tiny portion of the air slowed down a small bit won't hurt anything at all. I would be more concerned with melting the horn from sitting above the exhaust pipes, but mine never melted.

 

[posplayr]

I've installed them on 2 bikes I have without issue. They have been called a "come to Jesus horn" by those I have ridden with even the leader when riding as sweeper (6 man group).

Just run 16 gauge wire from the battery hot side through an inline 20 amp fuse to the relays switched power to the horn side with same wire gauge on the ground side of the relay to the frame and on the control side of the relay just wire in the old wires that went to the beeper the manufacturer called a horn and that's it. Just like the engine starter motor, I wouldn't run it through any other device, only direct wire from the battery through a relay.

I don't think the millisecond durational rise in current will matter greatly to the life span of the relay, automotive relays are cheap and can stick over time anyway. If there is any concern of arcing the relay then put the relay on an annual PM and just replace it each spring before riding season starts or just carry a spare with you like you do with spare fuses.

I was not intimating that there was anything wrong with the horn, but simply reaffiming the manufactures recommendations for installations which is what you appear to have do as well. Depending upon where you mount it, I might even consider running a 14ga wire for 4-5 ft runs. A frame ground return might be preferable as well given that the 40 amp peak will not be coming from anywhere else but the battery

I took my Wolo apart to see what options that would offer. It seemed potentially attractive to keep the motor part near my battery and run a air line forward to the horn portion, but this doesn't really solve much of a mounting problem for me as the whole horn fits right on my ED/ESD fairing mount. In fact separating it make gives me two mounting problems with one being quite ackward to deal with .


I am probably going to just put the Wolo back together, mount a 30 amp Boshe relay on the battery box and run a single (+) RED 14ga wire forward to the Wolo letting it ground at the frame mounting point.

I'm not using a Dyna S which would be the main concern I would have for running so much current through a frame return. The Dyna S returns all coil current through the engine block back to the frame.

 

[bwringer]

I've installed several of these (including Larry's) and there are a couple of points to make:

1) Yep, they pull a hell of a lot of current. 20 amp fuse will do it.

2) The loads are only momentary, so you don't need huge wires. I've used 14 and 16 gauge. I usually ground to the battery rather than through the frame, but YMMV. On "other" bikes with aluminum frames, you should not ground to the frame anyway.

3) The relay that comes with the horn is not the greatest. It's worth spending another five bucks for a nice sealed 40 amp relay from Advance Auto.

4) On every GS frame I've encountered, there's a handy 8mm threaded hole in the horizontal brace just under the steering stem. I don't know why it's there, but I've never seen it in use (or to the ES fairings use this?). That's where the horn in mounted on Larry's GS750L -- I made a stainless steel tab, maybe 1.5 to 2 inches long, mounted to this hole in the frame, and mounted the horn to the tab.

5) Make sure you get the horn tucked up as high as possible so it doesn't contact the fender on hard braking

6) I've never seen evidence of any problems from exhaust heat on the plastic parts of the horn -- it's actually a bit forward of the pipes, so even at a standstill, heat isn't coming straight up to the horn. The horn also does not seem to block airflow to the head -- there's plenty of room behind it for air to swirl around.

7) If your horn is getting a little sleepy, you can revive it by cleaning and lubing the compressor. Carefully unclip the plastic horn and remove it from the metal compressor. Put a rag over the outlet and put a few drops of air compressor oil into the inlet. Plug it in and operate the horn motor. Marvel at the black crud that comes out. Repeat several times until the oil comes out cleaner. This may also be worth doing with a new horn to help make sure it works better and last longer.

8) Peel off the "Wolo Bad Boy" stickers, and it says "Stebel".

 

[marvinsc]

A few months ago I was tasked with locating a replacement horn for a Tennant ride on floor sweeper at work. The thing is loud with the vacuum going so I figured a stock horn would not be suitable. I went to McMaster Carr's website and ordered their "extra loud" 12v horn. When I opened the package, lo and behold it was a WOLO Bad Boy! McMaster is not as cheap as Harbor Freight. Now you can hear the horn on the other side of the building with the vacuum going full speed.

 

[Joe Nardy]

There is an interesting horn test article in the latest Motorcycle Consumer News. They tested several horn brands and types, including the Stebel Nautilus and the Wolo Bad Boy. Their findings were that the loudest horns tested are the Hella SuperTones followed by the Fiamm high and low tone horns, the Stebel Nautilus Air Horn, and the Wolo Bad Boy.

Their conclusion was that the Fiamm Twin Tone is the best value. They are inexpensive, small, light, inconspicuous, easy to mount, and outperform the compressor type horns, although by just a small amount. The Hella Supertones are much more expensive, large (almost 5 inches across), and have bright red grilles which they do not find appealing. They feel the Stebel Nautilus and Wolo Bad Boy consumes considerably more power and are heavy and difficult to mount. Their quote regarding the air horns was "...we see no justification for the air horn option, despite the testimonies of their devoted following. We can only assume that members of the compressor cult may have never really checked out other options".

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Guest]

I am noticing some inconsistency with the sound produced by my Wolo. Anyone experience this?

 

[bwringer]

I am noticing some inconsistency with the sound produced by my Wolo. Anyone experience this?

Yes. Clean and oil the compressor.

See my post above -- post #12, point 7.

 

[Guest]

Yes. Clean and oil the compressor.

See my post above -- post #12, point 7.

Cleaned and oiled it per your post a couple weeks ago, still have inconsistency. Sometimes it blows just great & sometimes not much at all. Might have a bad one or it's just old. Bought it used

 

[posplayr]

If it is inconsistent it is likely electrical. have you measured the voltage when it doesn't work? Check connections. Other than that I assume you donot have a scope and current clamp?

 

[bwringer]

If it is inconsistent it is likely electrical. have you measured the voltage when it doesn't work? Check connections. Other than that I assume you donot have a scope and current clamp?

Agreed.

Could also be the relay. The relay that comes with the horn is not the greatest. Sometimes relays will show full voltage if you put a meter on the terminal without a load, but are unable to pass enough current to operate a horn. (Measure voltage when you operate the switch with the horn plugged in and with the horn unplugged.)

It may be simplest to just obtain another relay and swap it in.

They're up to $5.49 at Advance these days... damn inflation.

 

[posplayr]

Agreed.

Could also be the relay. The relay that comes with the horn is not the greatest. Sometimes relays will show full voltage if you put a meter on the terminal without a load, but are unable to pass enough current to operate a horn. (Measure voltage when you operate the switch with the horn plugged in and with the horn unplugged.)

It may be simplest to just obtain another relay and swap it in.

They're up to $5.49 at Advance these days... damn inflation.

I guess I just assumed, you generally look for a voltage drop between un-loaded(higher voltage) and loaded (lower voltage) to indicate that current is actually being pulled.


I doesn't matter where you look at that (either side of the relay or the battery) as long as it is the high side. The load in steady state is 15 amps so expect a little more drop than just turning the key on. Total load with horn is 25 amps and the battery voltage should drop close to a volt.

If not then , check for voltage as close to the horn. If it is there and still not dropping then maybe an intermittent winding int the horn and you can toss it.