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Zagg
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I am going to try leaning the bike to the right side and work the penetrating oil down in there for a couple days and see if that makes a difference.
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You can pick up an impact driver for cheap at Harbor freight but then go to Sears and get their bits.
Personally, I only half believe the "in-store" stock status notices at any of the major retailers web sites and will go physically look instead. However, that can of Berryman's that you spend $25 on at Advance or Auto Zone will typically have a basket in it to help dip the carbs and doesn't need to be discarded after the first run. You can save it for future use.
Personally, I only half believe the "in-store" stock status notices at any of the major retailers web sites and will go physically look instead. However, that can of Berryman's that you spend $25 on at Advance or Auto Zone will typically have a basket in it to help dip the carbs and doesn't need to be discarded after the first run. You can save it for future use.
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loud et
Guest
Needle nose vise grips or vise grips will also cracks those screws loose sometimes too. Then you can proceed with a screwdriver.
If you knew /had the tools to cut a slot in the screw head then it seems like you are pretty handy at wrenchin.
Get these screws out so we can see some bike building!
Watching post.
Thanks
If you knew /had the tools to cut a slot in the screw head then it seems like you are pretty handy at wrenchin.
Get these screws out so we can see some bike building!
Watching post.
Thanks
H
huntb
Guest
x2 on the vise grips for those last two screws
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Zagg
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Yeah, and ya know the Walmart isn't that far away either... Sometimes my shrewd nature and my downtime spent watching cheapskates on youtube gets the best of me... Oh well, lesson learned. I think there is a part of me that always believes there is a "better way"? I am always looking for a way to one up big business too. You win some, you lose some.
Yeah, I was trying to steal a Dewalt reman impact driver on ebay, but I keep getting outbid. There's a guy selling dozens of them. 1_great_shop
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Zagg
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Thanks for the advice on the vise grips... I will try them after I completely mangle the internal part of the head. Looks like I may be heading to HF to pick up an impact driver. I am anxious to keep movin' on this thing. I have been working on a 94 IDI diesel for a few years so I have some experience with the rusty, frozen bolts but that extra 10+ years of age has added an extra pain in the ass I wasn't expecting! Oh well, for all my bitchin' I still love it. Thanks again.
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Zagg
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Thank you sir!
The pilot fuel screw tip looks to be broken off in your photo. You better check the carb body to see if it's broken off in the body.
The foam seals are gone from the air filter frame and presumably the airbox end caps. Using high density urethane foam on the air filter frame works well, and a softer open cell foam on the airbox end caps is a popular solution.
Agree with the others that a can of carb dip is greatly preferable to those kitchen chemicals you are using. Hope you are not soaking the rubber parts and trust you are replacing all the carb O-rings during the rebuild.
The foam seals are gone from the air filter frame and presumably the airbox end caps. Using high density urethane foam on the air filter frame works well, and a softer open cell foam on the airbox end caps is a popular solution.
Agree with the others that a can of carb dip is greatly preferable to those kitchen chemicals you are using. Hope you are not soaking the rubber parts and trust you are replacing all the carb O-rings during the rebuild.
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Zagg
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Some stocking stuffers...
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Zagg
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Yeah, I am disappointed with the results. I didn't notice any breaks, but I will inspect closely. Thanks for that.
I read the airbox thread on BikeCliff's site that mentioned using weatherstripping to seal the caps... Is there any way to fix the or effectively seal the tear in the "snorkel" ? (I posted a pic of the tear in the boot)
Also, I am unclear on where you are suggesting I add the high density urethane foam... Could you be more detailed on that one? Thanks!
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Hardware stores sell closed cell polyurethane foam strips that you can use to replace the deteriorated foam from the air filter frame. I think you will want the 1/2" or 3/4" wide stuff that's about 3/8" tall. You may be able to use similar on the air filter box end caps if you can't salvage the seal that's already provided.
Regarding the broken fuel screws, check this for more info...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/pilot_screw_removal.pdf
Also, applying plenty of heat to that bottom screw, soak, heat, tap tap with a screwdriver and hammer, soak heat and hit it with vice grips should get it. I'd personally put some opposing screws back in to offset the tension as well. Might just be in my head but if you remove all but the last one (especially that bottom one) it doesn't want to come out nicely.
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Zagg
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Okay, thanks for the info and pointing out the fuel screw. I clicked the link and I see where it would show up. I'll take a look when I can get back to the carbs.Hardware stores sell closed cell polyurethane foam strips that you can use to replace the deteriorated foam from the air filter frame. I think you will want the 1/2" or 3/4" wide stuff that's about 3/8" tall. You may be able to use similar on the air filter box end caps if you can't salvage the seal that's already provided.
Regarding the broken fuel screws, check this for more info...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/pilot_screw_removal.pdf
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Zagg
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Yessir. Thanks. I haven't had to get this involved in screw removal before but I have a propane torch on hand and used the exact method you mentioned AND....
HELL yeah!!! GOT IT!!!
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Zagg
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Okay, so I have two questions...
1. When I cracked open the cover a washer fell out before I could see what was going on in there and I am hoping one of you can tell me where it may have come off. I have an arrow pointing to the washer that stayed and an arrow pointing to where I assume it came from. The washer that fell on the floor is identical. Does it go on the same gear pin that this one is from?
1. When I cracked open the cover a washer fell out before I could see what was going on in there and I am hoping one of you can tell me where it may have come off. I have an arrow pointing to the washer that stayed and an arrow pointing to where I assume it came from. The washer that fell on the floor is identical. Does it go on the same gear pin that this one is from?
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Zagg
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Okay, question #2.... I have browsed through the stator papers, but I do not have a battery currently and the wiring harness is in a box so testing is not possible at the moment so forgive me if this is obvious, but can you tell me what this means? I am assuming it is wax similar to what is on the stator, but I do not know if it is good or bad or neither. Thanks!
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Zagg
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I should mention if I haven't already that this is my first motorcycle so I am looking at my very first stator in person....
Hell yeah is right - nice work! Great photos too, lots of detail, nice and sharp too, thanks for that. Have you looked at the parts fiches online for your bike to see if the washer was doubled up? I don't recall there being 2 stacked washers, seems like Suzuki would've just used one thick one as opposed to 2, maybe someone else can ID it's location.
Is that waxy looking stuff inside the rotor hard or soft? Almost looks like it could be residue from the epoxy melting and recombining. Not sure on that.
Even though you don't have a battery right now, if you have a meter, you can at least use the resistance (ohms) setting to check to make sure none of the stator legs short (have continuity) to ground.
Also, if you do end up replacing it, I wouldn't try to remove the 3 stator JIS screws without a JIS screwdriver or an impact screwdriver. They are always in there super tight with locktite and will strip out easily. It's hard to get even heat or a drill down in there to remove stripped out screws. Put it in a vice if you can, and the impact screwdriver at Harbor Freight is only $8. The tips are pretty soft, but you can get a good set at Sears once you ruin the HF ones.
Good luck, hopefully someone can help with the washer and that strange substance.
Is that waxy looking stuff inside the rotor hard or soft? Almost looks like it could be residue from the epoxy melting and recombining. Not sure on that.
Even though you don't have a battery right now, if you have a meter, you can at least use the resistance (ohms) setting to check to make sure none of the stator legs short (have continuity) to ground.
Also, if you do end up replacing it, I wouldn't try to remove the 3 stator JIS screws without a JIS screwdriver or an impact screwdriver. They are always in there super tight with locktite and will strip out easily. It's hard to get even heat or a drill down in there to remove stripped out screws. Put it in a vice if you can, and the impact screwdriver at Harbor Freight is only $8. The tips are pretty soft, but you can get a good set at Sears once you ruin the HF ones.
Good luck, hopefully someone can help with the washer and that strange substance.
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Zagg
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Thanks, yeah I was thinking the same thing about the washer, but I had to run and couldn't do much more than put the cover right back on and go. I tried the partfiche at Part Shark, but I can't find one that shows all the gears in there. I found the covers and the stator but I didn't see one that had all of it exposed. I will look again.
The residue is hard and smooth. Are the stator coils covered in epoxy? if so I would assume it is melted epoxy, but I thought the location was interesting that it wasn't laying in the bottom but up the side.
I will definitely be getting an impact driver of some kind before tackling anything else that won't budge. Thanks!
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Zagg
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The pictures are almost too much. I need to see if I can resize some of them before posting. They are coming from my SIII phone and then through Photobucket.
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