1981 gs750 (gs750e) Retro Racer project

[LarsKroghStea]

Heatshrink soldering is an extreme timesaver (at least for me who hasn't used a soldering iron in ages).


2019-08-31_09-15-42 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-31_09-16-29 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

Rearset back in black


2019-08-31_09-15-07 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-31_09-17-00 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

My father got a new lift/table for the garage and it made working with the bike so much easier


2019-08-31_09-14-50 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[Buffalo Bill]

Those look good. I was thinking another benefit would be; they won't chew up your boot soles like bare aluminum race pegs do.
Really shortens the life of expensive, over engineered racing boots.

[LarsKroghStea]

Pretty happy with the decision to powdercoat the rearsets gloss black
I haven't finished the left footpeg yet, but the season is getting close to the end and I want to get the bike on the road, so I'll go with the black nylon prototype for now


2019-08-25_10-05-02 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-25_10-04-32 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-25_10-04-40 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-25_10-05-25 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-25_10-05-32 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-25_10-05-54 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-25_10-07-43 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

All very nice work, lovely!
Too late now, but it would have been nice to punch in the tank sides a bit for knee bracing. Something sorely lacking in gas tanks of the period.
Anybody who's done some very hard braking on a track or street knows why that's a small thing for a big help.
PS: You can still buy or fabricate a fork brace, very important on those spindly fork tubes.

Thank you! Yes, knee indents would be cool too. I had a Kawasaki zx7-r Ninja before and the knees fit perfect when braking, and as you say, it's a big help
I don't know how much it would help on this bike though, as the rearsets are positioned pretty far towards the rear. This makes the leg angle so that when I sit towards the front of the seat, the knees are where the rear camshaft-cover is. A little higher when i sit towards the rear. As you can see on the pictures below, the cx 500 tank is pretty narrow, and has a shape that allows the knees/thighs to fit pretty well if I have may toeballs on the pegs. Not nearly as effective as well made indents though.

IMG_20170630_144244 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

IMG_20170630_144016_1 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


I was looking into fork braces, espesially the Tarossi. But as I miss the braking power of the Ninja, I've decided to do a fork swap later on. I've bought a set of GSX-R 2005 USD forks with radially mounted calipers.
The calipers I'm going to sell again as they give the wrong ratio for the radial master pump I bought. The master pump is 16mm as that was perfect for the original calipers. The Yamaha R1 monoblock calipers are highly rated and the piston area makes for a perfect fit for a 16mm master. Lots of amateur racers do this swap on their GSX-Rs. Also I dont want to buy new Accossato levers as they were pretty expensive.

gafler by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

IMG_20170407_115832 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


I'll hopefully be able to do the fork swap next winter. I'm waiting for better exhange rates for the dollar before I order a front wheel from Cognito Moto

cb750-frontendswap by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

The tank can be propped up for easier access to the m-unit:


2019-08-02_10-15-57 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-02_10-16-39 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[Buffalo Bill]

All very nice work, lovely!
Too late now, but it would have been nice to punch in the tank sides a bit for knee bracing. Something sorely lacking in gas tanks of the period.
Anybody who's done some very hard braking on a track or street knows why that's a small thing for a big help.
PS: You can still buy or fabricate a fork brace, very important on those spindly fork tubes.

[LarsKroghStea]

Had to trim the box a bit in the front and bend in the sides some in the middle, to get the fueltank low enough, but now it fits better than expected


2019-08-02_10-15-29 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-02_10-15-13 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-02_10-14-57 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

Started to redo the wiring today. First picture is the backside of the main fuse. Second and third picture is the connection for reg/rec. The red wire goes directly to the main fuse since the original fuse-board is gone.


2019-08-02_10-17-44 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-02_10-17-33 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


2019-08-02_10-17-21 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

Made the tray for the m-unit and ignition today. Will drill holes for cables and for strips to fasten it later.

2019-07-26_09-39-00 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

2019-07-26_09-40-23 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

Hi Larsh,
Where do you get the tubing to hide the electric cables from?
I was also considering using a Motogadget m-unit on my XR 41 replica but unsure it would reduce the amount of cabling...
To me the best position would be inside the fairing as that's where most of the wires are located?

The braided nylon tubings are from ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10M-long-6m...UAAOSwRjxcC6UJ
But the also sell them locally at the tools/carpart outlet.

They have them in different diameters and lengths. I combine them mostly with shrinktube, but I also have a roll of cloth harness/loom-tape for very short runs of cable:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Rolls-Adhesive-Cloth-Tape-Electrical-Wiring-Harness-Loom-Wire-Cable-Felt-Tape/372581694802?epid=9028488887&hash=item56bf997d52:g:4s8AAOSwDmxcTtbc

There are some wiring involved with the m-unit too, but it is much more structured. One side is for switches and the other side is for outputs. The unit checks for shorts and voltage-leaks, so any faults down the road should be easy to find. Another thing I like about it is that the control side doesn't carry any current. That means no voltage drop through the handlebar switches. Also, if one switch should fail I can switch the output on/off through my cell phone. And.. I like electronic gadgets

For the XR 41 I guess behind or under the headlight bucket would be a good place to put it

[John Kat]

Hi Larsh,
Where do you get the tubing to hide the electric cables from?
I was also considering using a Motogadget m-unit on my XR 41 replica but unsure it would reduce the amount of cabling...
To me the best position would be inside the fairing as that's where most of the wires are located?

[LarsKroghStea]

The original petcock had a drainchamber with an extra fuelfilter in the lower end. With it mounted it was impossible to get the tank in position because the petcock hit the top of the carburetor. I ordered another without the bottom chamber and it fit perfectly.


Original:
cx500-petcock by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


New:
IMG_20190720_173327 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

Mounted an automatic main fuse with release and reset function. Nice to have an easy way to disconnect all power (exept starter).


IMG_20190720_165537 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


IMG_20190720_165455 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr