1981 gs750 (gs750e) Retro Racer project

[LarsKroghStea]

I bought a 6mm stanless steel rod, and made a pretty sturdy front bracket:





It doesn't look like it in the pictures, but the front and back ends of the fender is the same with as the tyre. In the middle, it is a little bit narrower. I dont mind, as most of the water is thrown off the center of the tyre thread.

I used the original HEL rubber protection to attach the brake line to the fender:

[LarsKroghStea]

A couple of weeks ago I made a temporary licenseplate-holder to check out placement and angle. I was planning on using it this spring and make a better one later. It turned out to be way too flimsy, so I had to make another one.

The flimsy one:



The new one. It's not pretty, but if I like it I'll sandblast it and make it a bit nicer.

[LarsKroghStea]

Finally, I had my first real ride with the new configuration. This is the first time I've really gotten to try out the new fork and front wheel. It works really well, and the brakes are awesome.
Winter is coming, and this was probably the last trip this year. I'll take a little break, buut there's a lot more to do.

Finishing the front fender.



Mid ride picture:




Arriving at my dads house, after an hour of riding.



I learned a few things on this ride:

• The clip-ons need to be angled more towards the back. The current angle is wrong for my wrists
• Possibly a new tink lid. The rubber gasket was old and hard as plastic.Gas was flowing everyhwere when I was breaking. I made a new gasket, and it almost cured the problem. Will look into replacing the lid with a quick-lock alternative.
• Swap swing arm.
• New upholstery. I will pay someone to do it, as I've already done it myself and I want a better version.
• Remake the housing for the buttons. Preferably in aluminum as I hope to finally test my anodizing equipment.
• Make side cover for right side.
• A lot of cleaning up bolts and elctrical connections.

Extra note; I made a bracket for the speed sensor. Tested with my multimeter and all, but it didn't work correctly and I almost couldn't get the bike over 40 kmh. It may be problem with where it is grounded, and I need to go over the wring. The sensor worked fine the last time I uset it.

[LarsKroghStea]

My clip-ons have a pretty steep angle of 9 degrees. Add more rake to that, and the sum amounts to bad ergonomics. This can be fixed with clip-ons with an adjustable angle like I had on the old fork.
I haven't decided on any brand yet, but I'm going to order something like those pictured below. I would prefere some with more offset (the bars are in front of the fork tubes - makes more clearance between bar and tank), but those are adjustable between 6 - 9 degrees, and I want the option of havng them almost flat.

[LarsKroghStea]

So, this is the solution to the clip-on problem: SpeedyMoto makes adjustable clip-ons with a good range of adjustments. They're pretty expensive, but the good news are that their replacement tubes are 22mm. SpeedyMoto also explicitly states on their website that they recommend them as replacements for other clip-on clamps.

They are made with a 14 degree angle, and will suit my setup well.

[LarsKroghStea]

I've been looking for solutions for a new gas cap. It needs to be low profile so it doesn't interfere with the flipover lid. I'm thinking something like this:





I haven't really TIG-welded anything since I made the seat some years ago, and I don't feel confident in welding in the bung without burning holes in the thin sheet metal. After some gooogling I've decided to try out something called Silicon bronze TIG brazing (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGDs3ZJErkI&t=669s). You may know what it is already, but for me it's a new concept. It's like TIG welding, but with bronze filler. The metal to be joined is not melted, just the filler. Sounds like low risk welding, and maybe an easier way to learn how to TIG-weld better.

Bronze brazing is often used in custom bicycleframe building, because it doesn't warp or stress the metal to be joined. Looks cool to