Valve cover gasket

[Guest]

what are you guys finding is the best way to seal the cam cover gasket. just put on the second one and it still leaks. i normally just put them on dry because its so hard to get sealer off after words. have you found a good sealer for this.?
Also what brand gasket is best . the 2 i used were knock offs .How do you like Cometic or maybe Vesrah. something that has quality with out the big price would be nice. OEM May be best but if i can find an alternative that is proven to work without the cost of the OEM that would be great.​

 

[Suzukian]

What model and year of bike are we talking about. They all have their foibles, and different solutions.

 

[Nessism]

OEM is the best. Use grease on the gasket to keep it from sticking. To save money, get the PN off Partzilla or similar, then hunt on eBay.

 

[adam83]

Im about to adjust my valves on my 83 gs1100e. On my bike, what material is the oem valve cover gasket? Is it metal?

 

[Suzukian]

It's not metal. It's either Rubber or paper. 1983 was an odd year as there was a cross over. If your bike is a 16 valve motor it's rubber (I'm pretty sure, my '83 GS750ES has a thick rubber gasket that goes into a groove) The rubber ones are reusable, unless they come out in pieces.

Take it apart first, so you know for sure.

 

[Grimly]

I was using OEM valve cover gaskets for years and got two or three uses out of each one. After a settling-in period of a few hundred miles, and a re-tighten, they'd seal for the rest of the service interval, no worries.
Last few years I've been using Vesrah, and they need to be snugged in more than once after installation. I don't find Vesrah to be inferior in general, but the specifics might vary from OEM.

 

[Cipher]

what are you guys finding is the best way to seal the cam cover gasket. just put on the second one and it still leaks. i normally just put them on dry because its so hard to get sealer off after words. have you found a good sealer for this.?
Also what brand gasket is best . the 2 i used were knock offs .How do you like Cometic or maybe Vesrah. something that has quality with out the big price would be nice. OEM May be best but if i can find an alternative that is proven to work without the cost of the OEM that would be great.​

Hammer of the gods. Dissolves in alcohol. Laughs at petroleum.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...tion-form-a-gasket-no-3-sealant-liquid-16-oz/

 

[adam83]

On higher mileage bikes has anyone had issues with oem rubber sealing correctly, due to slight warpage of sealing surfaces?

 

[Suzukian]

On my 1983 GS750ES the gasket concept isn't the best. The bolts that tighten the valve cover are shoulder bolts. They only go down so far, and the gasket is expected to hold the oil in. It has never worked well. They also strip very easily. I have Heli-Coiled every hole, and made thin washers to make the thicker washers push down a little more. It worked a bit better, but if I really wanted to seal it, I would use a thin layer of Yamabond # 4. That stuff seals cases, but is hard to take off. I may, the next time, just use Yamabond on the top of the gasket, take the shoulder bolt down .030" of an inch, and see if I can get the top cover to squeeze down a bit more. I may just get Allen head bolts, and make aluminum washers, and squeeze it tight. I always carry a cloth to take care of any weeping after a ride.

****changed bottom to top Nessism​ is right.

 

[adam83]

On older stuff, at least with older automotive applications, like valve covers and transmission pan gaskets, Ive found that most times I have to avoid rubber gaskets, as they will almost certainly leak. I use paper or fiber gaskets, with just a smear of permatex right stuff, if I want the gasket to not leak. I realize its more work to take apart the next time, but I hate leaks. I am considering using this approach to the bike, as its not the funnest valve cover to take off, and I want to avoid doing it twice.

 

[Cipher]

On higher mileage bikes has anyone had issues with oem rubber sealing correctly, due to slight warpage of sealing surfaces?

No....................

 

[Cipher]

On older stuff, at least with older automotive applications, like valve covers and transmission pan gaskets, Ive found that most times I have to avoid rubber gaskets, as they will almost certainly leak. I use paper or fiber gaskets, with just a smear of permatex right stuff, if I want the gasket to not leak. I realize its more work to take apart the next time, but I hate leaks. I am considering using this approach to the bike, as its not the funnest valve cover to take off, and I want to avoid doing it twice.

The product I showed you is the best sealant I have ever used. Though ive never seen the stuff you mention. Is it an rtv? I can't recall an rtv that didn't seep oil in time.

 

[adam83]

Permatex right stuff, Black. Yes it's an rtv. No setup time, cures in about 10 to 15min. It's the best rtv I've ever used, I'm surprised you haven't heard of it. It can be used basically anywhere except exhaust. I've never had a leak with it. It's flexible and adheres to surfaces very well. I've never used Hondabond and yamabond, but heard good things about them.

 

[Nessism]

Sealer on the cover side of the gasket is fine, but I wouldn't use it on the head side or you will have a fight on your hands come time for the next valve adjust.

 

[Kara25]

Oem with using your finger to <<paint>> it with grease or get yourself some 1mm thick gasket paper cut the gasket yourself (time consuming) and apply again grease. Dont use torque wrences up there go by feel and with criss cross pattern and patience. Opened up my rebuilt engine to adjust valves after 200kms and gasket came off super easy and resealed perfectly. Used in the past some aftermarket ones like versah they started leeking in no time. Also make sure both surfaces are smooth and clean as possible. Over the years and by completely tearing an engine apart and resealing it i came to the conclusion that the most critical part of sealing 2 surfaces is their condition and cleanliness. If everything is butchered up no OEM gasket will save the day no matter how expensive they are

 

[Suzukian]

Depends on the bike. My Suzuki has a very thick grove for the gasket to sit in. You could never seal that with paper.

 

[93Bandit]

Oem with using your finger to <<paint>> it with grease or get yourself some 1mm thick gasket paper cut the gasket yourself (time consuming) and apply again grease. Dont use torque wrences up there go by feel and with criss cross pattern and patience. Opened up my rebuilt engine to adjust valves after 200kms and gasket came off super easy and resealed perfectly. Used in the past some aftermarket ones like versah they started leeking in no time. Also make sure both surfaces are smooth and clean as possible. Over the years and by completely tearing an engine apart and resealing it i came to the conclusion that the most critical part of sealing 2 surfaces is their condition and cleanliness. If everything is butchered up no OEM gasket will save the day no matter how expensive they are

What kind of grease do you use? Wheel bearings grease? I've heard of some using WD40. I used WD40 on my clutch cover gasket and it seemed to work well, gasket came off in 1 piece.

 

[bwringer]

Depends on the bike. My Suzuki has a very thick grove for the gasket to sit in. You could never seal that with paper.

And your Suzuki is...? Most GS models have flat paper-ish/cardboard-like gaskets. The rubber gaskets with the groove were a later invention.


The OP is also being unnecessarily coy regarding their motorcycle.



The best advice varies, but OEM is always best, and you can find NOS on eBay pretty often. Cometic is hot garbage, but Vesrah can be made usable. Sometimes. Overall, OEM is worth it and it's not worth monkeying with imitations unless you have no other options.

For the flat gaskets, a thin coat of grease goes on both sides, and you can indeed re-use the gasket several times. Pay careful attention to CORRECT torque and torqueing order as laid out in the manual.

It's almost never worth replacing the half-moon seals; new ones stick up and have trouble squashing enough to be flat with the head and seal correctly without squirting out. If you do need to replace these, use a teensy schmear of case sealer, not RTV. I often install them backwards so that the lip is on the inside; that way they can't escape outwards.

 

[rphillips]

For me, a thin coat of sealer on the cover side and grease on the head side, next time it comes off the sealed gasket will come off with the cover and head surface should be clean... all good for reusing. Recommend a good in. lb. torque wrench, those little bolt holes will be stripped before "I" can feel it. My opinion, probably 50% or more of GS's have repaired cover holes.

 

[Kara25]

93Bandit i used both wd40 to <<wet>> the gasket and a thin coat of plain grease applied by finger.both worked wonders. pick what you have at hand and use