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what did you wrench on today??

I had some help


M7ZXpz8l.jpg





More of the story here
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...fluencing-the-grandkids?p=1729995#post1729995


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My '83 GS750SE is ready to go with new tires, clutch and other doodads. Waiting for the temperature to rise, as it's only 55 degrees Fahrenheit this morning. :)
 
Out for a very nice ride when a jumper cable some one dropped across the road had a loop that caught my side stand ( did not see this). I thought it was going to wrap around the wheel. Managed to stop in time. An Amazon driver honked his horn and said I was dragging something. I have no idea how long that thing was dragging behind me. Took it off, continued on ride. Bike started surging, acting weird. I got to the top of the hill where I live (50 miles later), and the bike died, I was able to coast down hill into my drive way. I had no head light, but had instrument lights. Turns out I did not tighten the battery posts tight enough and the bike was running off the battery. I have charged the battery, and the bike started right up. I had just put a new front tire, new clutch and clutch springs, and replaced all the carburetor tubing. It's running like a champ. Tomorrow will be the 2nd drive since working on it. Hoping for an uneventful ride. :)
 
Cr@p, there's a lead, and it's getting very hot. When I disconnect and connect it, the temperature gauge clicks. I'm wondering if the temperature gauge sending unit is bad. Too burnt out today to chase the B/w line wire down to see what the heck is going on, 12 volts coming from that wire, and the other end goes to the ground side, connected to the ground cable!!. Oh well, any suggestions would be highly appreciated (1983 GS750ES, owned since new). I only mention this, as that means the wiring harness is virtually untouched except for the dreaded Stator/ Voltage R/R fix, otherwise all wiring is stock.
 
Cr@p, there's a lead, and it's getting very hot. When I disconnect and connect it, the temperature gauge clicks. I'm wondering if the temperature gauge sending unit is bad. Too burnt out today to chase the B/w line wire down to see what the heck is going on, 12 volts coming from that wire, and the other end goes to the ground side, connected to the ground cable!!. Oh well, any suggestions would be highly appreciated (1983 GS750ES, owned since new). I only mention this, as that means the wiring harness is virtually untouched except for the dreaded Stator/ Voltage R/R fix, otherwise all wiring is stock.

Black/white stripe is ALWAYS ground. Find out where the 12v is coming from.....
 
Thanks, that's what I thought, looking at the schematics. Thanks a lot! I have a feeling when I was trying to convert to LED signal lights, I may have wired something wrong up front. I'll pull the fairing and check everything out.

:)
 
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My Taco needed some tunes.
I think I covered my needs and those within a 1/2 mile :dancing:

7 speakers - Kicker matched 3.5's coaxials, 6.5's coaxials, 6x9 3-way.
6.5 Skar sub
1300 watts (advertised)
PRV DSP
Those ported 6x9 boxes are amazing

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Black/white stripe is ALWAYS ground. Find out where the 12v is coming from.....

You were right!! I accidentally Hooked the Black with White Line to the Black wire on the rear signal light, and back fed 12 volts into the system. All seems well now. Nothing is getting hot. Thanks!! :)
 
Lately, I've really grown to like riding the old Triumph TT, and since I am riding it much more often than in the past, I felt like it needed a little love.
She is an '01, I bought in 2011 with just over 7K miles. Mostly used for track days and occasional short rides, so only at 12K now.

I've kept up with annual oil changes, chain care, and such.
But since I really didn't put many miles on it, I never did the long term things like changing the brake fluid and coolant, replacing brake lines, plugs, or checking the valves.

So going to do a 12K service. Valve check, plugs, brake lines, coolant and brake fluid change, fuel filter (in tank), air filter, and maybe replace the coolant hoses.
Most parts are on order, and the bike is about ready...



 
Discovered my rear wheel was locked up , frozen brake pistons I spent a day working on it no success, calipers are junk now. I had a Honda caliper and hanger in a bin but it didn't play nice with GS1150e suzuki swingarm, with a lot of cursing and effort I made it fit. Today I'll torque the bolts and re-install the pipes then I'm ready for a test ride.
 
Still working on the Triumph.
Spark plugs did not want to come out after 22 years, but they finally did. Replaced the fuel filter, also.
Gas tank is back on, and it runs.


Putting off the valve check till winter. But doing the coolant flush next.
 
Bought a used rear caliper from Germany, and a rebuild kit from the UK.
When both arrive, I'll sort that one out and fit it, then buy another rebuild kit for the one that's on there just now - it's starting to stick a bit and when they start doing it, they just get worse.
 
I wrestled and angel that had decided to infect by truck with trouble codes.
po622 to be precise. Finally pulled back enough vanity coverings to see one broken wore and another holding on by a strand or two.

There is a huge fault when addressing issues related to complex systems. A lot of us tend to go for the most terrifying complex root cause without first plodding through the flow chart.




The issue with my code was that the two wire harness had work hardened and broke partly through its filaments over the course of 12 years of various frequencies and amplitudes of vibration.




The reason a dug down into the harness was that I was getting a low not infinite resistance on the sense wire. This was due to cross talk I assume in the breaking wire pair.




No matter some overpriced shrink tube butt joint and a struggle to gain access as the wires broke off with an inch or so hanging out of the main harness.




Put it back together fired it up and the battery light had gone as did the service charging system warning.




It was replace with throttle position codes due to the fact that the work hardening that took out the alternator pigtail also weakened the very fine gauge wires to the TPS. Im positive I didn't tweak them of jam then in any way.




The were broken off evenly. Friday stores closed so I recall I bought some whiz bang uninsulated butt joint sleeves once upon a time and after searching found them and started to prep the wire ends to receive them.




Then I quit for the day because of hunger and twilight and fatigue apt to cause mistakes.




Its a scary thing to know that a harness can be ready to break at any moment. Had I been back in the woods it would have been a misery.




Have any of you experienced wires breaking from vibration induced work hardening of the filaments?

Is there a better way to address the breaks? I am going to heat shrink then tape the individual joints then wrap the whole bundle.




Well at least it's not the damned ECM and the dealer isn't getting any money.



 
Have any of you experienced wires breaking from vibration induced work hardening of the filaments?

Is there a better way to address the breaks? I am going to heat shrink then tape the individual joints then wrap the whole bundle.

I will try to find some really fine-cored wire to replace the troublesome bits - much more resistant to fatigue breaking.
These days, fine-wire core silicone leads are easy to find in red and black, and other colours if you're lucky enough to need the sizes they're offered in.
 
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