1100G(GK) ignition switch stuck in Park position

[Redman]

82 GS1100GK

I Put the ignition swtich in Park position (turn to ON , push in, turn further to right), and tail light only comes on ..... and now switch is stuck there.
Push key in.. wiggle key.... wiggle handbars ... mutter.. mumble... cant get key to turn back....

(pulled main fuse so battery not run flat)

All my years here on GSR, I dont think I have heard of this before. (maybe have heard of handle bars stuck in Lock position)

ANybody have any words of wisdom ?

 

[Redman]

Note 1: legond on the ignition swtich is faded, but I think is the Park position. One click to the right of ON after pushing key in.
Yes, I have verified that Park is to the right, past On, (where is presently stuck).
And Lock is left of Off.

 

[Redman]

Note 2: Key is stuck in the Park position (right of ON) and . . . . . . handle bars are locked in place . . . . Oh, crap, maybe this is pretty much the same problem as Handle Bars Stuck In Lock position.

 

[tom203]

Shoot some silicone spray down key…..add heat with hairdryer to free up gunk. Tap lightly on switch body as you attempt to release lock’s grip.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Was going to suggest same as Tom203. Had similar issue before. Working some WD40 in and around with the key got it to free up. Probably had to jostle the bars a bit too so the lock bolt wasn't tight against the stop on the steering head (i can see it in my brain but don't know if I'm describing it properly). Once I got it unstuck, I took the whole lock cylinder apart an thoroughly cleaned. Be careful, there's a ball bearing in there, and it is possible to put it back together exactly 180 degrees wrong. Best to work with all parts in a tray so nothing goes wondering. Take pics as you go so you know how to put the puzzle back together.

 

[Eli69]

I spray PB Blaster into keyholes occasionally. You might have to get up under where the actual steering lock is.

 

[LAB3]

You could remove the key assembly from the frame and work on getting the cylinder to turn on your workbench. My best guess is you'll want to do that anyhow as preventative maintenance.

 

[Grimly]

Yep, that happened to me once, and I was lucky enough to get it to come back out of the park/lock position. Never used it since, but lubed it once in a blue moon so it wouldn't stick again if I got forgetful.

 

[rphillips]

Anybody ever heard use graphite instead of oil in locks... Rumor yus'ta be oil will collect dust, grit, & eventually gum up, but graphite being dry won't.

 

[Redman]

thanks for reply and sharing info.

so, the stuck in park situation is the same as stuck in lock position.
andthe comments are to lubricate the key switch (thru key slot I gather)…..
I was thinking problem is not so much the key switch itself but what ever steering lock mechanism getting jammed up. But you knolodgeable experienced folks are saying to lubricate the key switch.

I have squirted in wd40 3-4 times over last day and half…. No results yet…..
I am not available Ned day and half , will see after that…..

in times I have had fork tubes off, and time I replaced steering head bearings, I don’t recall seeing what mechanism actually moves into
whatever position to lock steering in position.



[QUOTE…..under where the actual steering lock is.[/QUOTE]

I need to review microfiche and such to see what it can find.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Dave, I'll try to get some detailed pics of what you're lookin at and also the method of removing the two allen-head screws that hole the ignition barrel in place. I seem to recall it involved some extensions.

 

[Dogma]

I did this to myself last summer (long story) and had to take the ignition switch assembly off another bike.

The little finger that comes out of the lock assembly engages a tab on the frame to prevent rotation of the steering. On mine, the little finger that comes out of the lock assembly still has some free wiggle. So, whatever is stuck is completely internal to the lock mechanism.

I did some googling in and out of the forum and didn't have much luck. I only learned that it's common. Disassembly of the lock mechanism is doubtful. You'd need better tools than I have on hand. The whole thing is held together by 3 little spring pins, maybe 1.5 dia each. They go into blind holes, so you can't drive them out from the other side.

I keep forgetting to see if a locksmith would be willing to take on the job of trying to get all my locks keyed alike. I'll have to try the soaking it in lube routine.

Is all this in the top 10 noob mistakes thread yet?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Dave, here’s a short video of how the bolt moves and locks against a flap of metal on the steering head. Mine was a little sticky there so I did shoot it with first brake kleen, then some silicone spray. Definitely helped it not be sticky. Try as I might I could not put together any combination of swivels and extensions to get a tool on either of the recessed Allen-head screws that bolt the ignition barrel in place. Clearly I head the headlamp bucket out of the way the last time I did this. I believe the alllens are 6mm. Don’t quote me. Hope this helps.

 

[salty_monk]

Yeah park position is a "use it regularly or use it NEVER" type of deal for just this reason...

 

[rphillips]

I never imagined using this park position unless broke down on road. I've been lucky, never broke down where I couldn't get off the rd... I have turned them over there a couple of times just to see if it worked, & they always do..

 

[argonsagas]

You already know lubrication is key to resolving this, so let me add a bit more
Putting WD40 into the key slot is a half-way measure and you have already done it.
The base of the lock is where the problem lies, so you need to put some there, too.
A hair dryer may help, as was also mentioned above.

After it loosens pull the switch, disassemble it and clean it thoroughly

Note this please:

Before doing anything with the switch get a large, clear, plastic bag.

Once the switch is off the bike you will do EVERYTHING inside that clear plastic bag.

The switch is obviously very dirty and parts are sticky.
The switch is easy to work on but once it is opened some parts will try very hard to escape by any means possible.

Bearings are particularly unfriendly and once they taste freedom they can be very elusive.

That said, if one of them does escape you can use a common BB as replacement
BBs are copper-clad steel and, while just a bit smaller than original bearings, they work perfectly.
(Remember that plastic bag recommendation?)

Soak the components in solvent, then clean and dry them thoroughly.
Lubricate parts before re-assembling the switch.......all of this still inside the bag.

 

[Baatfam]

Dave, I locked the ignition on my GS1100E years ago on a trip to Wisconsin, and couldn't get it unlocked.
Removed the ignition in the motel parking lot to get home. Never did get it unlocked. Ended up buying a NOS ignition switch off eBay.

 

[Redman]

Dave, here’s a short video of how the bolt moves and locks against a flap of metal on the steering head. .
.
..
..eo]

I see... I see it in your vidio...

Thanks.

 

[Redman]

Hey, even with GK fairing, can get a look (on one side) at the top of the steering neck with the bars locks way over.

With expereince of viewing Richs vidio - Thanks Rich - then knew what to look for, and Hey! can see the tang that comes out of the ignition key mechanism and locks the bars.

there, just above center of the photo, that bare metalic rectangular piece.

In my case, I noticed that it would wiggle some when I tried to turn key away from the Park Position. So that made me think it wasnt completly jammed up.

Got so spray lube on it, aimed it in along the side and top of the tang, thinking it migh go some into the mechanism.

Came back about half hour later, got a screw driver on it and I pushed on it while turning the key, and - click - it went back into the mechanism - bars unlocked.
Now to decide what else to do.

THanks Guys!

(now to deal with hanging idle. I know what to look for. Have delt with that before.)

 

[argonsagas]

I recall an often repeated adage: " If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Many think it works for them, but maintenance is essential for anything to last, and.once a problem has developed, it is best to deal with it.
These switches had grease in them initially, but what I saw inside mine was that the grease had dried out or wore out, making it sticky internally.
I suspect that is what has happened in yours, too.