100%, thanks. I went and got a 5' chain, beats trying to fish out BBs. I've used a length of string with hex nuts on it, but that seems too aggressive for this tank.
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1974 Laverda 3C
- Thread starter oldGSfan
- Start date
100%, thanks. I went and got a 5' chain, beats trying to fish out BBs. I've used a length of string with hex nuts on it, but that seems too aggressive for this tank.
It has been compared to a 'normal' 4-cylinder configuration (like GS1100E) at <3K rpm, with one cylinder that isn't firing. Then it gets interesting.
I am lucky to have some excellent local support. A fellow in Palm Springs has a modified side-stand - originally they weren't even fitted, but the center stand is fantastic. Then they created one that's not ideal. He lengthened and reinforced it, and put an extension so you don't have to put your foot nearly under the bike to deploy it. He's charging $40 for it. What a deal. Another guy in Ontario CA, which is closer, is a machinist and ex Honda/Mikuni employee.
He has a '76 Jota, which is a hotted up 3C with cast wheels and bodywork change (rear cowl). Also this Lav 750 sold as 'American Eagle' starting around '69. This is a '71. The engine looks suspiciously like a Honda 305 Dream or CB77 Super Hawk.
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The tank is clean. Always a gnarly job. I had about 2 gallons of well-used citric acid/soda mix, which was still working fine after dozens of jobs, and put that in first. Left it in for an hour, then did a shake with a chain inside. Drained and strained, then put it back in with another 2 gallons of fresh mix to fill the tank all the way up. After an hour, I siphoned about 3/4 out, put in the chain, and shook again. It looked immaculate, but I figured, why not dump the mix back in and let it soak another hour?
After that I drained the acid mix, flushed the tank with my garden hose, then filled it with hot water and washing soda, shook and drained with a rag in the spout to catch as much fluid as possible. Next, I dumped in about a pint of isopropyl alcohol in the tank, drained as best I could, then put a clean microfiber towel in the filler hole, and shook it to catch the leftovers. Then I put a hair dryer in the fuel filler hole to dry it out as best I could. Finished up wtih a heavy dose of fogging oil. It looks superb, but I don't. I'm wiped out. It looks the best of any tank I've ever cleaned, that citric acid/baking (or washing) soda mix is absolute gold.
After that I drained the acid mix, flushed the tank with my garden hose, then filled it with hot water and washing soda, shook and drained with a rag in the spout to catch as much fluid as possible. Next, I dumped in about a pint of isopropyl alcohol in the tank, drained as best I could, then put a clean microfiber towel in the filler hole, and shook it to catch the leftovers. Then I put a hair dryer in the fuel filler hole to dry it out as best I could. Finished up wtih a heavy dose of fogging oil. It looks superb, but I don't. I'm wiped out. It looks the best of any tank I've ever cleaned, that citric acid/baking (or washing) soda mix is absolute gold.
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How paint friendly are both of your tank cleaning brews?
Very. The citric acid/soda mix has a huge benefit of being mild to paint, plating, etc. With other benefits such as no nasty fumes, and ability to work with it, within reason, with minimal protection. The only other 'brew' I use is isopropyl alcohol, 70% cheap dollar store stuff. It's pretty mild. I use it a lot for paint prep, that and a tack cloth are all I ever need. I always have a bucket of clean water with a bit of baking or washing soda in, and a clean rag as standby, but it's just being extra cautious.
The first time I looked in the tank closely I was a bit worried, it was super crusty. But I realized it might be the fuel that had dried up, with rust flakes mixed in- which it was. So my first two cleanings were an appx 6:1 mix of Berryman's B12 chemtool with gasoline. That took out a huge amount of stuff. I am sure most of the rust may have come out with some agitation in that mix, but it's pretty explosive so I did the agitation only after I had let the gasoline/Berryman's do its thing for two 24 hour sessions, shake & drain etc. Then I used the chain inside once I was onto the citric acid stuff . Eye opening for sure. It looks new inside.
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Carbs are done, new atomizers and needles, floats, needle valves & seats, and other wear parts replaced, fully rebuilt and they should be fine. Some remove the accelerator pump; I figured that there's nothing wrong with it, leave it in. There is some fine-tuning of the diaphragms via lock screws. I'll read up on that so I can do it right.
The forks are amazingly good inside, very little wear. The oil I drained out wasn't nasty, and the metal bits inside don't need replacing. I got new seals, shroud covers, and little o-rings for the drain screws, that's all it needed - plus a polish. They should be all done by tonight, then I'll get on to the brake MC and caliper rebuilds. Nothing scary looking there, just waiting for parts to arrive later this week.
It's much like restoring a Suzuki GS. Everything is robust, available - but at more cost, and the knowledge base is much smaller, and documentation more archaic. The community is a bit infested with stuck-up twerps and rivet counters. Similar to the Norton community. I endeavor to perservere through the tribulations.
The forks are amazingly good inside, very little wear. The oil I drained out wasn't nasty, and the metal bits inside don't need replacing. I got new seals, shroud covers, and little o-rings for the drain screws, that's all it needed - plus a polish. They should be all done by tonight, then I'll get on to the brake MC and caliper rebuilds. Nothing scary looking there, just waiting for parts to arrive later this week.
It's much like restoring a Suzuki GS. Everything is robust, available - but at more cost, and the knowledge base is much smaller, and documentation more archaic. The community is a bit infested with stuck-up twerps and rivet counters. Similar to the Norton community. I endeavor to perservere through the tribulations.
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I am in a bind with the plastic throttle tube - I inadvertently damaged it, it may work, but I'm not sure, so I want to replace it. Turns out it is shared with early-mid 70's Suzuki GT250 (X6 Hustler), GT380, and GT550, until 74 (I think). It is a rare piece. Of course. There is a guy in the UK who 3D prints them, but due to tariffs, he won't ship to the USA. He sent some for resale to another guy in Australia, who has 10 on hand. But he hasn't shipped to the USA since the tariffs started. It's getting me down because this has become a repeated theme. It's worse for the sellers. They are priced ridiculously IF you can find one on eBay. The 'similarly priced' feature on eBay means people are asking crazy prices for OEM ones. Motion Pro and Emgo don't make replacements.
Turns out the switch is also similar to the 78/79 GS1000, and possibly early GS750s, but those are dual-cable setups. That may work, but then I'd have to take a chance and buy one with the whole switch, which looks a bit different, and is at least $100. Dammit, I'm so sick of this, as there are similar problems obtaining rare Norton parts, and overall, the prices have risen dramatically.
I may just use a spare GS1100E throttle and switch that I have on hand, but it doesn't match, so that will suck. The one I'm after has only a run/stop toggle and start button. I saw a few GT380s and GT550s at Mecum, the Nippon Denso switch and single cable is very similar, just the lettering color and script is different. I also read up on a Laverda forum, and those early year Suzuki throttle tubes are the only ones that will fit the Laverda.
This is the Suzuki one, I haven't taken a pic of mine but it's similar except the lettering.
Turns out the switch is also similar to the 78/79 GS1000, and possibly early GS750s, but those are dual-cable setups. That may work, but then I'd have to take a chance and buy one with the whole switch, which looks a bit different, and is at least $100. Dammit, I'm so sick of this, as there are similar problems obtaining rare Norton parts, and overall, the prices have risen dramatically.
I may just use a spare GS1100E throttle and switch that I have on hand, but it doesn't match, so that will suck. The one I'm after has only a run/stop toggle and start button. I saw a few GT380s and GT550s at Mecum, the Nippon Denso switch and single cable is very similar, just the lettering color and script is different. I also read up on a Laverda forum, and those early year Suzuki throttle tubes are the only ones that will fit the Laverda.
This is the Suzuki one, I haven't taken a pic of mine but it's similar except the lettering.
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Frustration, originated by my own carelessness, spilled out. Don't want to start a 'T' word discussion, that's been done to death.
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Thanks for that - I spoke to a fellow in Canada yesterday at Columbia Car & Cycle in Naksup B.C. of all places, he's the Laverda guru and has rare parts. He has one. I think it's 3D printed by the guy in the UK who won't ship. It's a high-quality 3D printed repro done with proper materials on a very expensive setup, from what I've read. Since I already have a pending order for a couple hundred $ with him. Just waiting on his confirmation. I also have relatives in Australia so if this falls through I have that backup.
To avoid pinching tubes, which, despite my best efforts, still happens on occasion, I got a Baja Designs no-pinch tool. It's a game changer. They are advertised for dirt bikes, but it works for any wheel over 18". Of the 4 bikes I have, 7 of the wheels are 18" or over, and 4 run tubes - only the GS1100E rear is smaller.
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Got my tires mounted. The tool made it easy to mount the front, but the rear was a real chore. Shinko 712, they do the job, and there are very few alternatives out there. Bridgestone BT46 are 2x as much, and 110 or 120/90-18 rears were out of stock wherever I looked. Avon is another possibility, but both sizes are out of stock everywhere I checked.
I will have the chain peened and the gearbox outer mechanism shift pawl on after that, then the rear tire. All parts are in hand, and most of the grimy cleanup, polishing, and painting is done. Gonna be a beauty! The spokes were flaking, so I cleaned them and brushed some Seymour stainless paint on. They look decent. I wasn't willing to re-spoke with new stainless ones.
I will have the chain peened and the gearbox outer mechanism shift pawl on after that, then the rear tire. All parts are in hand, and most of the grimy cleanup, polishing, and painting is done. Gonna be a beauty! The spokes were flaking, so I cleaned them and brushed some Seymour stainless paint on. They look decent. I wasn't willing to re-spoke with new stainless ones.
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I installed the rear wheel today. A bit fiddly with brake linkage but got it done. Shinko 712s, they are fine for me, I've been using them on my GSs, I can't tell any difference between them and the 2x more expensive alternatives. Nice to still be able to find a bargain tire that performs well. I should have the chrome headlight mounts tomorrow and then I can put the front end on.
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Front end nearly done, just need to get the tach crimped, speedo is done. I got the headlight ears chromed and bought new shrouds that they mount to on the upper fork tubes. I should have had mine chromed as the ones I had done are better. Oh well, future task if I care to. Very tedious to get the headlight area and signals done, but it's looking good.
Down to the last bits of polishing, only the main engine side covers to do. I figured that getting the technique down pat on other parts was best, then really do a good job on the covers. Maybe too much bling on the levers, but they can acquire patina when I quit polishing and start riding, which should be in a few weeks I'm guessing. Aluminum gets several grits of sanding with my Dremel, start 180 and finish 800, then wet sand with 1000. Next it's Tripoli and green rouge on the buffer, and a final hand polish with Mother's mag & wheel.
That whole front end looks great!
I'm going to need your address.
I'm going to need your address.
