1977 GS750e project

[Chuck78]

Well, I decided not to be one of those guys so I'm going to do a thorough cleaning of the carburetors.

So, the plan is to clean up, then sand and paint the top of the triple tree, and back of the head light.

i've decided to post-pone the clip-ons, rear sets, and cafe seat mainly due to lack of funds. Hopefully by mid summer I will have a full time job and a running GS750 at least.

That's all excellent ideas, function first. You can take off parts later and refurbish or modify them, get the essential mechanical workings of the bike in solid condition now & RIDE IT! Then do other modifications step-by-step so you don't have a bike that is down and not writable during the bulk of the riding season. You can just peck away at small projects one at a time while the bike is still rideable, and do the projects so that you will only have the bike down for a weekend or a few evenings. Then rideable again.

 

[jibledso]

Yeah, the only line I crossed was when I went saw crazy the first night I had it. I also had that GS850 tailpiece and instantly thought I could easily make it fit on the 750 seat pan, not so much. So, I'll just have a 750 seat sitting on top of the frame not secured, ehh, it's not like I haven't rode other older bikes like that. I don't think my 71' CB500F seat was ever fastened.

This is definitely a project like non other I've had. When I was in the U.S. I was use to just splurging on parts I needed because I could I always make money, it's not so easy here for me.

 

[Sam 78 GS750]

I went to the nearest Mom and Pop shop, there are no peps and auto z's here........So, I asked him how much it would be, he just smiled and said bring them by and will try it out together. Solid guy.

Pep Boys and Auto Zone are super convenient, and they have most of what you need... but things like that right there is why I'd rather have 1 good mom and pop shop over a million well stocked chain stores any day.

The chains pushed out damn near all of the mom and pop operations here in the states along time ago. The chains carried everything in the store. People went there because you could get things right now instead of the "I'll order it for you, it should be here in a couple of days..." answer from the mom and pop.

Funny thing is that the chains are becoming less and less convenient. Their in store inventory is down to what the mom and pop stores used to carry, because everything else has been moved to their website. So now the answer from the chain is "We don't have it in stock. I can order it for you, should be here in a couple of days...or you can just go to our website."

We're back to waiting days for anything but the most common purchases, except now we're stuck with s@&t customer service and no relationship with the proprietor.

Consider yourself lucky that you have a shop like that instead of an AdvanceAutoBoys with some kid behind the counter who wouldn't know the difference between a hose clamp and a hole in the ground.

</old man rant>

 

[jibledso]

So, finally got the rest of my parts to finish the project and my carbs back from cleaning, they didn't charge me anything!

Now after two months of have the carbs a part I've forgotten where the third spring goes. I think it's in the slide assembly inside the arm of the slide at the bottom with that little piece of metal on top and the adjuster on top of that. It would be really nice to see a schematic of the VM carbs.

What got got me worried was when I saw the picture on Bikecliff's for VM carbs, there's a picture of the slide and a spring under the needle, that can't be right? Right?

 

[Chuck78]

Some VM carb slides are made for a spring under the needle, some are made for no spring.

 

[jibledso]

Is it inside the slide under the clip, or outside the slide in the venturi where the needle goes into the main jet?

 

[Chuck78]

Inside the slide! The throttle return spring would do the job that placing it in the venturi would, no way the engineers would ever create turbulence in the venturi like that...

The slide is machined different and has a recessed well that the spring sits in on those models. I think that's the later version(?)

 

[Sam 78 GS750]

Are you talking about # 27 in this diagram? --->https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/s...0c-f-no-gs750-41492-gs750ec-f-no-gs750e-19995

It's a bit hard to see in the fiche, but if you mean what I think you mean, you're right about where it goes. It's what keeps tension on the adjuster arm for synchronizing the carbs...

 

[Chuck78]

No that's not correct, it would be under 22 or 23 in that 77 750B diagram, like THIS:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1979/gs750en/carburetor-gs750n-en

I have both styles of slides, this spring in question is only for the jet needle, & is not needed if you have the earlier style carbs. Not the spring in the rocker arm, that one is on every VM rack of carbs. This spring in question is only on the later style of VM carbs.

 

[Chuck78]

Just look up the VM carb rebuild tutorial manual put together by a GSR member, I think it's linked on the main GSR page (not the forum but the actual GSR front page)

EDIT - Brian Wringer's GS page... not GSR. But you can't see the inner part of the slide where the spring sits!
Good manual to have anyway:
http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

 

[jibledso]

I suspected the spring went inside the slide arm, I was just thrown off by the picture of the spring under the needle, thanks for the clear up.

In other news; I bought a VW Passat and changed the rear brakes, I got some cheap calipers and the threads on the bleeder nipple are gone after trying to bleed the brakes, so now the car is taking 75% of my garage up and I can't get back to working on the bike until I have enough money to buy genuine VW brakes in about two weeks.

 

[Burque73]

I suspected the spring went inside the slide arm, I was just thrown off by the picture of the spring under the needle, thanks for the clear up.

In other news; I bought a VW Passat and changed the rear brakes, I got some cheap calipers and the threads on the bleeder nipple are gone after trying to bleed the brakes, so now the car is taking 75% of my garage up and I can't get back to working on the bike until I have enough money to buy genuine VW brakes in about two weeks.

That's a bummer about the bleeder nipple. I've been waiting for one of these one way valves to arrive in the mail, then I'll do the braided brake lines on the KLR. Last time I bled them I felt it was likely that the threads would strip so hoping to avoid that.

On another note, similar to your garage situation, my son's car is now in my way. It runs but he works nights so mornings before it gets hot is when I really like to work out there and I have to shuffle vehicles around.

 

[jibledso]

Well, a lot has happened since April, the VW was in my garage till July preventing me from getting to the GS project.

The good news is I have a much larger garage with 8 other people, kind of like a co-op garage, it's basically an old warehouse with bays. It's got a bathroom and other comforts my old place didn't have, plus several large benches.

So, I got my carbs put back together with nice new pods.

Then I tried hooking up the battery, not as much luck, I melted the starter button. I know now after reading some old threads that the battery box is not grounded.

My problem is I can't remember exactly how it was rigged up and it's definitely been changed by previous owners. I'm confused about the twin places on the starter relay that have Phillips heads screws and what goes there. I do remember a wire being welded on the relay I think.

Also the yellow/green wire coming from the starter switch is just hanging out near my battery

Also since the previous owner has changed wires up, what exactly is coming and going from the fuse box? All I have is a yellow wire someone taped off with electrical tape.

any tips or suggestions?

 

[jibledso]

Yeah my bike is quite rusty like this. The ground for the battery box is a holding screw for the starter relay that i couldn't get out after using an impact.

im seriously thinking of just getting an m-unit instead of fighting ever screw and bolt.

 

[jibledso]

Finally figured it out; the starter wire was sodered to the starter relay, is this normal? Guess I have to buy a sodering gun now.

so yeah it turned over, sprayed some starter fluid and it definitely was trying to start, there's no gas going to it currently.

on to the turn signal relays

 

[Chuck78]

Yes, this is how they all are as far as I know.

 

[jibledso]

Got the bike started tonight but it's pouring oil profusely from the upper left cam cover. When I started it first I didn't realize the cam cover bolts were loose, so I sequence tightened them but it's still pouring oil.

here is a picture of the new garage neighbors

 

[jibledso]

Here's the bike as she stands, waiting for some needle bearings and race for the swing arm so I can put the rear wheel

 

[jibledso]

It's been two long years

 

[jibledso]

Don't worry she was already warm before I started it