1980 GS1100LT Cleanup

[Guest]

I've owned my 1980 GS1100 LT since I purchased it new in Rocky Mount, NC and have VERY infrequently rode it since as evidenced by the 3,713 miles on the odometer. Last time licensed was 10 years ago but I've started it several times over the years..always been stored inside also. I did have my GS completely serviced and had new tires put on 10 years ago and rode maybe a couple hundred miles after service...changed oil and filter earlier this year and purchased a new OEM petcock.


This really won't be a restoration but mainly a polish, paint, spit shine and will probably drag on until spring so I apologize in advance for this thread crawling along. I am not smart enough to do any major engine or electrical work and to old to learn so any technical advice will probably go right over my head



My GS has very, very, little rust on it but the clear coat has yellowed and looks like crap. I've been using steel wool, Scotch Bright Pads, sandpaper, WD40, Marvels Mystery Oil, Mothers Mag Polish, Aircraft Paint Remover, Degreaser and several other degreaser/polish/cleaners. So far elbow grease, Mothers Mag Cleaner, and Scotch Bright Pads seem to work the best but I am all ears for any other recommendations.

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[Guest]

btw...here is my GS prior to cleanup


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[Nessism]

Looks like a great project.

For polishing the aluminum there are dozens if not a hundred different threads here in the archives. Guess that's my first bit of advise: learn to use the search function here because there is hardly any questions left that haven't been asked dozens of times before. Problem is there are different opinions I use paint stripper on the clear coat, then a sisal polishing wheel with black compound. Wizzards Power Seal to finish it off.

Good luck

 

[Guest]

Looks like a great project.

For polishing the aluminum there are dozens if not a hundred different threads here in the archives. Guess that's my first bit of advise: learn to use the search function here because there is hardly any questions left that haven't been asked dozens of times before. Problem is there are different opinions I use paint stripper on the clear coat, then a sisal polishing wheel with black compound. Wizzards Power Seal to finish it off.

Good luck

Thanks for your comments on what you use...I used the search area first and did see many, many different opinions so I think I'm on the right track.

 

[dorkburger]

Nice. The bike looks good even before. A good starting point for sure, plus you know the bikes history....

Definitely put new tires on the list. 10 years is old, despite how much tread is left.

 

[Guest]

Nice. The bike looks good even before. A good starting point for sure, plus you know the bikes history....

Definitely put new tires on the list. 10 years is old, despite how much tread is left.

The tires on my GS are the 3rd set since new....the only tires that ever got any wear was the original set.

 

[Guest]

It seems that wetting the surface with a water/Marvel Oil, #0000 steel wool, scotch brite pads, then polish with Mothers is the path I'm going to take in cleaning/polishing my engine....tried a bunch of other techniques mentioned on GS Forum and appreciate the advice.

I have been painting my side covers with Rustoleum Enamel with wet sanding between coats and was putting my last coat on several days ago and had to switch to a new can between painting side covers and you can see the results below ....I have been waiting a minimum of 3 days between coats, shook the can a long time before using, and sprayed for about 15 seconds on cardboard before painting the side cover...that can made a nice boom in my burn barrel.


Put the first coat on my tank this morning and will wait 3 days and then wet sand...I know that some recommend applying additional coats within and hour but I'm in no hurry and hope the finished product is worth the wait.

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[Guest]

I had some free time yesterday and spent most of it browsing/searching this great forum...found answers to many of my questions and sometimes multiple correct answers to a question:-#

I've decided to pull both wheels to make it easier to clean them and also to check bearings...will remove swingarm also and that way I can keep my chain intact. For an original chain it does look in good condition..not dried out or rusted but my GS has always been kept inside, only ridden in the rain a couple of times (that I can remember) and I have kept the chain lubed. I did a quick clean with a brush and the chain cleans right up...once off my GS I plan on cleaning the chain with Kerosene as several members recommend.

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[Guest]

btw...the Dremel is not being used to clean the chain...made several homemade Scotchbrite pads to use on it and works pretty good on removing old clearcoat on forks.

 

[Guest]

I ordered some Dremel polishing/buffing heads from Amazon and right at $32.00 for them...hopefully these will make the job a little easier.

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[Guest]

The Dremel heads help in the really tight spots but probably could do without them. After trying lots of different ways to clean/degrease/polish I have come to the conclusion that there is no "magic bullet" for doing this and it is just going to take lots of time and elbow grease (and raw fingers) to get the engine looking good and I am fine with that.

So far my best results are using aircraft remover on the clearcoat on the engine and then using a brass wire brush after aircraft remover has set for about 20-30 minutes, let set for another few minutes and then spray Marvels Mystery Oil on and that and set for about 10 minutes....use a soft bristle brush and then brush everything down while spraying with a hand sprayer....rinse clean and then repeat process as necessary. I'll remove the covers and polish on a bench polisher when I am satisfied with the engine. I am using the dremel pads, scotchbrite pads, and a few other cleaning supplies at times too.

I've still got a long way to go but lots of time over the winter to do it.


Before Pic's

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After

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[Guest]

Got the 3rd coat of Rustoleum enamel on the tank and so far so good. I've been wet sanding between coats and the paint lays pretty flat with no sags or runs. Unless I need to put on a 4th coat my next step is to apply Rustoleum Clear Coat and this is where I'm unsure of prep work. In searching this forum (and others) many people recommend wet sanding prior to clear coat and in my limited knowledge of rattle can painting this just kind of confuses me...is the wet sanding to rough up the surface so clear coat adheres or to remove imperfections? I'm just afraid that wet sanding will make scratches that will show through the clear coat. Unfortunately lots of the photos on this forum are photobucket accounts and no longer show up.

Wet sand prior to clear or not?

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[Guest]

I decided to not wet sand one side cover and wet sand the other and then clear coat...after lightly wet sanding with 1000 grit and then applying gloss the sanding marks magically disappear.....I'll wet sand both and add one more coat of gloss and then let set for awhile before buffing and polishing.

This is a leaning experience and I am going to go ahead and wet sand and add one more base coat to the tank.

 

[nvr2old]

Is that a solid color? It looks to be in the pics. If it has any metallic in it, that might be a problem when wet sanding prior to clear coats because it disturbs the metallic pattern. With metallics, you need to spray the color followed by clear coats all in one spray session with the same brand of base coat and clear coat. You're correct when sanding the dried color before clear coating. It's important to do or else the clear won't adhere. You can even use 600 grit on the color before the clear and it will have great adhesion and will never show scratches underneath. You'll need at the very least, three coats of clear on all your parts or you'll sand through on the sanding and buffing stage. Painting is scary, but you're doing fine. Just be patient.

 

[Guest]

Is that a solid color? It looks to be in the pics. If it has any metallic in it, that might be a problem when wet sanding prior to clear coats because it disturbs the metallic pattern. With metallics, you need to spray the color followed by clear coats all in one spray session with the same brand of base coat and clear coat. You're correct when sanding the dried color before clear coating. It's important to do or else the clear won't adhere. You can even use 600 grit on the color before the clear and it will have great adhesion and will never show scratches underneath. You'll need at the very least, three coats of clear on all your parts or you'll sand through on the sanding and buffing stage. Painting is scary, but you're doing fine. Just be patient.

The paint is a solid color....Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel and the clear coat will be Rustoleum Chrystal Clear Enamel. After the clearcoat dried there are lots of tiny sandy/gritty spec's in the clear? I searched the web and best I can find is that I was holding the rattle can too far away from the painting surface and some of the paint dried in the air before it hit the painted areas. It sounds like these areas will wet sand out and after buffing/polishing I won't see them.

 

[Guest]

Here is a pic of what the clearcoat did...never had any problems like this with the base coat and spraying in the same area and using same cleaning prior to paint/clear technique.

best

 

[nvr2old]

So much depends on the cleanliness of where you are painting. Even in a pro booth, you're going to get a little dirt in it. If you're painting in a garage, the chances of getting stuff in the paint quadruples. Did you use a tack rag before spraying? Your job has been made more difficult, if for no other reason, because of it being spray cans. It's harder to do because it just goes out of the can dryer and in a smaller pattern then with a gun. Hanging your parts rather then spraying them on the bench (?) will help immensely. Particulates from the surrounding towels and cardboard will blow debris right into your fresh paint. It'll sand smooth and polish out, but some of the dirt/particles might be encased and will never go away short of starting over from scratch. White would show even worse.

 

[Big T]

Painting is a learning experience, especially wit rattle cans

Since you're cleaning up, I suggest cleaning up your electrical connectors. A can of DeOxit seems expensive, but it is so effective that the cost is offset. Pull open a connection, spritz both sides with DeOxit, let it sit for a minute or two, reconnect, done. If really heavy corrosion is present, repeat as necessary.

Did anyone mention tire replacement yet?

 

[Guest]

I shot another coat of base on the tank and did not get any of the gritty effect in the tank paint at all...location and other conditions were almost identical to the clear coat going on the side covers so evidentially the clear coat has some qualities/ingredients that possibly requires a different procedure. A Google search turned up this happening with a bunch of different people so I'll just deal with it in the buffing/polishing stage. I am going to get the clear coat finished on the side covers before I start clear coating the tank and will hang the tank and try to eliminate areas of dust.

Good tip on the electrical connections and the tires were new about 10 years ago and probably not more than 250 miles on them. Before I replace the tires again I'm going to make sure that I actually will ride my GS.
One question...should I clearcoat the frame or just go with the Rustoleum enamel?

 

[Guest]

After thinking about it there is one thing that I did different from the base coat to the clearcoat application....on the clearcoat application I set the rattle can in a container of water that ran out of the hot tap in my utility sink..maybe set in the hot tap water for 5-7 minutes. The next clearcoat application on the side covers will be done using clearcoat at room temperature.