1980 GS850GL kinda rebuilding one bolt at a time.

[Guest]

I've posted in other threads.. but what I've done is little more than what others with 850s have done.. Until now I think... I bought a new seat cover from Pit-Replica...It got here today so I thought it's time to recover the old seat.......... I got the old cover off... and then the foam... and then I found this... Rusted through is a couple of spots and on one support that is hanging on with by a sliver. I've started to grind the rust off, to see how much damage there is .. my thought first is to fix the holes with epoxy (JB Weld steel) .. but I'm looking for better answers.. I will go check the boneyard.. but the hopes of finding a seat pan that fits is pretty slim

Again.. I'm open for suggestions.

 

[Guest]

What does the other side look like? Is it rusted all the way through? Mine was not that bad, but I managed to resurrect it by grinding off the surface rust and using a few coats of chassis saver on it to prevent further rusting. Then fix the holes with fiberglass or bondo before repainting. Chassis saver is an epoxy like paint that will prevent the metal from oxidizing. should be repainted afterwards though.

 

[Guest]

What does the other side look like? Is it rusted all the way through? Mine was not that bad, but I managed to resurrect it by grinding off the surface rust and using a few coats of chassis saver on it to prevent further rusting. Then fix the holes with fiberglass or bondo before repainting. Chassis saver is an epoxy like paint that will prevent the metal from oxidizing. should be repainted afterwards though.

I'm grinding it down now.. I'm pretty sure I can save it... It has rusted through in a couple of spots.. I had used a bit of JB weld epoxy on a couple of spots on the back and that's as hard as steel.. doesn't even grind down with this wire brush I'm cleaning the scale off with.. so that's the plan with some fiber reinforcement over the holes. I'll post pictures as I go along... just for fun.

 

[Nessism]

Do NOT grind on that pan. Get some Kleen Strip Etch and Prep from Home Depot and soak all the rust off. Grinding removes good metal whereas the chemical derusting keeps all the metal and just removes the oxidation. After you get all the rust off use some good paint such as Por-15 paint which seals the metal and keeps it from rusting again. Some JB Weld with sheet metal patches to cover holes as needed, or even fiberglass should reinforce the pan.

 

[Guest]

Do NOT grind on that pan. Get some Kleen Strip Etch and Prep from Home Depot and soak all the rust off. Grinding removes good metal whereas the chemical derusting keeps all the metal and just removes the oxidation. After you get all the rust off use some good paint such as Por-15 paint which seals the metal and keeps it from rusting again. Some JB Weld with sheet metal patches to cover holes as needed, or even fiberglass should reinforce the pan.

I used a wire brush attachment on a pretty low speed drill to remove the scale.. let the parts soak in rust remover last night... When I said grind.. I meant wire brush.. Using both JB weld epoxy and fiberglass repair kit to reinforce where it has rusted through. Cleaning the scale off the foam which is in pretty good shape over all. after wire brushing to remove loose scale. Metal cleaner dip next. then fiberglass and epoxy patches and paint.

 

[Guest]

After a soak in this I'll patch the holes and weak spots... What started as a quick seat cover replacement is going to spoil a nice weekend riding.. AGAIN! (wink)

 

[Guest]

Cleaned of rust, patched with both fiberglass and epoxy where the holes were and painted with undercarriage paint.... I was going to sand everything down smooth..and then got to thinking...... It's under the foam... and under the cover.. I just want the metal dry...... It looks rougher than it really is..

 

[Guest]

Looks good. That should last you a long time

 

[Guest]

Finished Project

 

[jsandidge]

Good job.

 

[Guest]

clothes make the bike... Looks better now... I think.

 

[Guest]

After getting the seat on I tackled the problem of my erratic idle and fouling plugs.. Found a wrong sized air screw... replaced that.

 

[Guest]

Still couldn't get the idle to settle down or my plugs to stop fouling (carbon) so started to check wiring... found this on the connector going to the fuse box..

 

[Bearr045]

Your bike is exactly like mine, also a 1980 GS850GL Black color ( seems to be original paint). bought it from second owner, he had moved from Ohio to Phoenix,AZ. where I live and bought it from him . Bike was not running ,carbs were handed to me in a cardboard box along with side panels and other loose parts. Front tire was flat would not hold air. Had a lot of surface rust on ALL chrome and had never had a wash in its lifetime. Hardened gunk on engine surfaces from oil leaks, only clean item was fortunately the Tittle!. Dipped carbs and bench synced and bike started!!, however iddling rough . Cleaned all electrical connections,new batt., new plugs, new stator and reg/rectifier, air filter, oil/filter. Keeps getting better day by day. Still working on it, hope to have all kinks worked out next month, I do ride it already short runs only though. Good luck with yours, its looking good

 

[Guest]

Finally got the engine running smoothly and dialed in the air mix idle screws... as I was buttoning up everything the headlight went off... just off.. No voltage at the light, no voltage at the fuse box for the head light.. so I did something I wish I had thought about more... I took off the switch to clean the contacts and check the voltage... For those of you who know what's inside of that switch.. I see you chuckle.. It's not funny. For those of you who have never opened the switch.. DON'T!!! @#$@!$$#! it's full of tiny little springs. sigh, does anyone have an exploded view of that switch? I had to run to the boneyard and pick up one off a wreck... the replacement is in pretty bad shape but it should have the parts I need to replace. Also, has anyone replaced the OEM switch with something available that claims to be a Universal headlight/turn signal/ horn switch from ebay or amazon? sigh

 

[Guest]

my first effort to document what I've been doing.. I'm sure I'll get better...

 

[Grimly]

Also, has anyone replaced the OEM switch with something available that claims to be a Universal headlight/turn signal/ horn switch from ebay or amazon? sigh

My fave go-to source is the GS500, which was in production until relatively recently and there are many thousands of low milage examples out there being broken for spares. A slight bit of re-wiring to mate the switch unit with your own harness, of course.
My other fave is the Honda Deauville (NTV700); again, many low-mile donors ready and willing to surrender their brake and clutch controls and switches.

 

[Guest]

My fave go-to source is the GS500, which was in production until relatively recently and there are many thousands of low milage examples out there being broken for spares. A slight bit of re-wiring to mate the switch unit with your own harness, of course.
My other fave is the Honda Deauville (NTV700); again, many low-mile donors ready and willing to surrender their brake and clutch controls and switches.

I ended up finding a donor switch at the boneyard from an old GS1100, and rebuilt the switch from the contact board out to the wires. Cleaned and polished the contacts. Everything works as it should now.

 

[Grimly]

I tend to go more for relatively fresh examples nowadays, as I've been let down by aged plastics inside switches. Parts just fail through fatigue, and some of them weren't designed for a long life anyway.

 

[Guest]

I'm getting excited. Weather has improved. I have gotten my carbs all back together with stock jets re-installed, adjusted the floats and did a bench sync. All the air screws have been replaced and are out at 2.5 turns. Ordered the airbox snorkel, it will be here by Friday. Checked the clearances on the valves. Found one out of spec and replaced with spare shim that I've collected (whew!). My fuel tank has been powder coated and looks great. I will also be replacing some of the old stock electrical connectors in lieu of some new water tight connectors. New (to me) series R/R and recent new stator, turn signal delay seems to be working with the used relay from the boneyard. New AGM battery fully charged. I know I shouldn't be overly optimistic because of past disappointments... but by damn..... there's light at the end of the tunnel...