1980 GS850GL kinda rebuilding one bolt at a time.

[Guest]

Odd casualty of a short test ride yesterday.... Went down to the cycle shop to pick up a oil filter... on my return trip, about 1.5 miles away from my house, the throttle cable broke. Luckily there was a motorcycle specific free parking spot right there... so, knowing what the problem was I walked home... loaded up my scooter with the tools I would need and rode back to the spot... removed the seat and tank to get to the linkage and replaced the throttle cable in about 10 minutes.. buttoned everything back up and rode the scooter back home.. caught my breath and started walking back to the bike... (in the rain) got to the bike (this is the point of the story) started it up and headed home to tighten and check my work... funny.. the left turn signal isn't working no light... the right one works fine... but my high beam won't work either... Checked the bulbs and both turn signal lights are good as is the headlight lamp. Checking contacts..... so far haven't found the problem......
color me... blue.

 

[Guest]

I found that problem, while I had the tank off and was rerouting the new throttle cable I pulled one of the old connectors apart... Then the rain came...... hiding from the storm now...

 

[Guest]

Connector problems. sigh.... I have been replacing the connectors on the bike with waterproof connectors that are a bit larger than the factory connectors. The connectors under the tank have been the last ones still using the factory connectors.. but... they are old cracked and a tad melted... I keep losing my turn signals... today on yet another test run they stopped working. After pulling the tank to see which connector failed, and finding it, and before reinstalling the tank I thought I'd look at the spark plugs.. #1 #2 #4 all look great... #3 is fluffy with carbon build up... but now... I've got no spark.. on any cylinder.... So back to troubleshootin... Shakes head and wanders back to the garage...

 

[Guest]

No spark. With the condition of some of the connections I've started replacing all the melted and brittle connectors. This is the ignition connector in the Headlight bucket... I have a suspicion that the igniter may have bit the dust... but I want to get all the wiring smoothed out. I've found the test for the igniter on Basscliff's site. One of the problems I do see in replacing the factory connectors with the waterproof connectors is that when and if I have to replace a unit like the switches or the relays, I will have to replace the connectors that they come with. The other challenge is that the new connectors take up a bit more room than the factory's.

 

[Steve]

I have never felt the need to install waterproof connectors. Although I do end up riding in wet conditions at times, I have never had electrical problems due to the water. Usually, simply installing fresh OEM-style connectors will work just fine. I find it to be less work, too. You might do well to invest in a set of connectors and crimpers from Vintage Connections.

.

 

[Guest]

I have never felt the need to install waterproof connectors. Although I do end up riding in wet conditions at times, I have never had electrical problems due to the water. Usually, simply installing fresh OEM-style connectors will work just fine. I find it to be less work, too. You might do well to invest in a set of connectors and crimpers from Vintage Connections.

.

I bought a couple of connector kits (Automotive type waterproof).. So I'll use those.. but I did take note of the link. Thanks! I went through every single connection from the headlight bucket to the taillight. Cleaned up some of the mis-wiring and crossovers that the PO had left for me to discover. I now understand the wiring in the headlight bucket MUCH better. I noticed that my turn signals work better and are brighter than they were. Cleaned and replaced every spot of corrosion and heat damage that I could find. That included the connections from the stator to the R/R and the connections to the fuse box. From the signal generator to the ignitor box I put dielectric grease on all connections and checked the solder points wherever I had added a new connector. I used my multimeter to check continuity and resistance where it was given (coils, signal generator) Voltage to the lamps at the front and the back are VERY close to battery voltage... But it didn't start.

No spark....................
So, I checked all my connections and connectors again.. LITERALLY the LAST wire I was checking before I ordered up a new igniter box were the wires (blue and green) from the signal generator....

guess what?

The connector (soldered) on the brand new waterproof connector.. had pushed back out of it's locked position.. There is a red retainer over the metal female receiver that had pulled away from the post.

I pushed that in, heard the click... reached up and pushed the start button...

and it started up and ran so smoothly I almost cried.. (I didn't... but I could have)

So tomorrow it's going to rain... I will get the tank back on and maybe... just maybe I'll get to ride it this weekend.

 

[Guest]

I have to laugh...or I would cry. Put the tank on last night checked to see if the petcock was in the run position and not prime..... went to bed ... bright sunny day this morning and I went out to check and get ready for a ride....
Gas was leaking from the carbs and from #1 spark plug hole (I had not tightened it up last night was going to check it this morning) SO.. took the tank off and the gas was flowing out of the petcock.. even when turned back and forth it just kept coming... plugged the outflow and put a fuel hose on it...... Now I'm changing the oil and letting it air out.. I have a spare petcock and will swap it out and check it's function... I am concerned that the float valve didn't shut off the flow... shouldn't it have stopped the flow into the cylinder?
no ride today...
sad:

 

[jsandidge]

Float valves aren't designed to hold back fuel like that. If they could, you wouldn't need the petcock.

 

[Guest]

Float valves aren't designed to hold back fuel like that. If they could, you wouldn't need the petcock.

Thank you. That is what I thought... but I thought I would ask just in case... (see my other thread about the carb rebuild....lol)

 

[Guest]

I'm an idiot.

I had my gas tank powder coated. I did NOT clean the tank before I installed it. One of the reasons my petcock stopped working was sand... lots of sand. through the petcock filter ... I now need to re-remove the carbs and make sure they float valve filters are not full of sand also.. So basically back to square one.

Like I said. I'm an obvious idiot..

I delivered the tank stripped down and shiny. I didn't even think the powder coater guy sand blasted the tank .... I should have checked... I hope there's not too much damage...

 

[Guest]

Carbs are apart. I have 1 non-functioning float valve needles no spring left. Ordered replacements :dispirited: Jets all removed and re-cleaned. 4-5 days to putter about on other sh*t. Also have fuse box cover coming (not sure where I lost the last one)

 

[Nessism]

Carbs are apart. I have 1 non-functioning float valve needles no spring left.

If you soak that float needle in carb spray (spray into a glass cup) the needle will come alive again. It's fouled with varnish.

 

[Steve]

I am concerned that the float valve didn't shut off the flow... shouldn't it have stopped the flow into the cylinder?

It should be noted that, for fuel to flow into the engine, you need to have TWO failures:
1. The petcock is either not shutting off properly or leaking past the diaphragm.
2. At least one of the float valves is not sealing or the o-ring(s) around the float valve(s) are leaking.

To check the petcock, run two hoses from the petcock into two separate containers. Glass jars work well. With the petcock in the RUN or REServe position, monitor the jars to see if there is any accumulation. If you don't see anything, you shouldn't have a problem, but it's still good to check the o-rings in the carbs.

.

 

[Guest]

If you soak that float needle in carb spray (spray into a glass cup) the needle will come alive again. It's fouled with varnish.

sand... I've ordered new float valve units... but I am soaking the float needles in carb cleaner.. the seats have a visible ring..but I can't feel a ridge... we'll see how these work and save the new units for the next rebuild...

 

[Guest]

It should be noted that, for fuel to flow into the engine, you need to have TWO failures:
1. The petcock is either not shutting off properly or leaking past the diaphragm.
2. At least one of the float valves is not sealing or the o-ring(s) around the float valve(s) are leaking.

To check the petcock, run two hoses from the petcock into two separate containers. Glass jars work well. With the petcock in the RUN or REServe position, monitor the jars to see if there is any accumulation. If you don't see anything, you shouldn't have a problem, but it's still good to check the o-rings in the carbs.

.

I'll test the petcock in the morning... I had to hose down the gas tank and the carbs.. The sand was in the petcock too.. I'm betting that cause both failures to allow the gas to fill the cylinder. Very little sand in the float bowls.. a few grains no layers...

 

[2BRacing]

I'll test the petcock in the morning... I had to hose down the gas tank and the carbs.. The sand was in the petcock too.. I'm betting that cause both failures to allow the gas to fill the cylinder. Very little sand in the float bowls.. a few grains no layers...

The filter screen on the petcock is very fine mesh. This should have prevented sand from getting into the petcock itself and carbs. Perhaps your petcock filter has a hole or tear in it?

 

[Guest]

The filter screen on the petcock is very fine mesh. This should have prevented sand from getting into the petcock itself and carbs. Perhaps your petcock filter has a hole or tear in it?

The media that got through was a fine almost talc like powder. There was actually very little in the filters on the fuel valves and negligible amount in the float bowls..

I am getting practiced in opening up the carbs though, along with a sorting box to keep the parts wrangled and a clean workbench from contaminating the cleaned items has made a huge difference on the third go around.
sigh.

 

[Guest]

Petcock fail... new Petcock ordered... that's the 3rd one... sigh

 

[Guest]

4 new fuel valve assemblies arrived today.

Along with used fuse box from an GS850g which is in pretty good shape with the exception of some cracked insulation on wiring.

While I ordered a new Petcock.. I've also disassembled one of my older ones... they don't look all that complicated with the exception of the vacuum check valve on the top.. keep in mind that this is the vacuum petcock that simply has the Pri Fuel switch with a small opening for a slot screwdriver.

 

[Guest]

Things to get used to after carb cleaning/rebuild valve adjustment and general maintenance.
#! I can see things in my mirrors
#2 I don't have variable idle anymore
#3 I can go much further on a tank of gas
#4 No backfiring when coming down a hill

These things won't be HARD to get used to.... but in 8 years of riding it's kinda like riding a different bike.