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1981 GSX1100 Katana Based Project

Suggestion: don't toss the bad cooler back in the pile. That's something I would do! :cry:
 
Max, I fitted a TRUB7B oil cooler when I added an oil cooler to my Kat. Size is 70 x 280 x 38mm (2.75 X 11 X 1.5 in) and weighs just under 500gms (1lb). Fits in nicely between the side cowlings. I modified the in/outlets to fit 1/2" NPT fittings.
Works a charm.
Pics always help. I have more if needed.

Nice bike by the way, you have done an amazing job.

DSCN1093 by RobK67, on Flickr
IMG_4458 by RobK67, on Flickr
 
Max, I fitted a TRUB7B oil cooler when I added an oil cooler to my Kat. Size is 70 x 280 x 38mm (2.75 X 11 X 1.5 in) and weighs just under 500gms (1lb). Fits in nicely between the side cowlings. I modified the in/outlets to fit 1/2" NPT fittings.
Works a charm.
Pics always help. I have more if needed.

Nice bike by the way, you have done an amazing job.

DSCN1093 by RobK67, on Flickr
IMG_4458 by RobK67, on Flickr

Hi Rob, thanks for your tip on the TRUB7B cooler, a tidy looking unit that fits the Kat well and looks good with those USD forks! On any other build I would chase up the TRUB cooler however, this build is focused on weight reduction so light parts are the name of the game this time. I have bought a Davies Craig "Hydra-Cool" oil cooler, made in Australia and pressure tested with a 2 year warranty.

Fits the Kat and most importantly is very light at only 317 grams. The other feature on this cooler is the barb connection, using 9.5 mm hose and clamps is much lighter than braided lines with AN or NTP fittings and also eliminates 90 degree angles from the plumbing. Same goes for the plumbing from the block, barbed aluminium is light. Braided lines and AN or NTP fittings are a great product however, not for this build. Once the paint has cured on the cooler, painting the outer edges black and leaving the cores/fins silver (picked up the cooler two hours ago) I'll weigh the complete system, my guess is cooler, connections, hoses/clamps and brackets will be less than 600 grams.

Interesting, going by the decal and the signature block your Kat is a 1000 model, is it still running OEM slide carbs or have your replaced them with modern go fast carbs, the top end oil system and USD forks hint towards this being a very sporty Kat? Keen to see other pics of your Kat when you get the chance to post.

Cheers mate.

Oil cooler 22 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Oil cooler 23 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr
 
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Max, Fully understand the weight thing, I admire your commitment trimming the Kat down.
You are correct about the OEM carbs, I loved them when the bike was standard but they don't cut the mustard now. A set of Mukini 36mm now sit in their place.
I did go for a sporty Kat and after a 9 year rebuild I am very happy with the way she turned out .
Hope you don't mind me dropping some pics.

Katana rebuild by RobK67, on Flickr

Katana rebuild by RobK67, on Flickr
 
Hi Rob, Wow, your Kat looks the goods! Wheels, EFFY head - great mod, front and rear end, is that an RF 900 swingarm? Fantastic work on the Kat and thanks for the pics, you can post them anytime when you have Kat-porn like that.

Cheers.
 
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After the fail with the first cooler it's oil cooler MK II time. Decided to not use the MK I cooler lower bracket, too heavy. The MK II lower brackets are individual brackets and much lighter as the scale shows when compared to the MK I bracket, 58 grams vs 18 grams = 69% weight reduction for the lower bracket. Today was spent sorting out the optimal oil cooler position and making the lower brackets to suit, minimal filing needed this time.

Although I am not happy having to add an oil cooler to the build, I have kept the weight to a tolerable level. So far the cooler, lower brackets and engine oil cooler fittings weigh a total of 355 grams.

Cooler top brackets, hoses and clamps are next on the list and maybe a protector screen for the oil cooler?

Oil cooler 27 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Oil cooler 28 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Oil cooler lower brackets before they are drilled out to lighten them.
Oil cooler 29 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Engine oil cooler fittings.
Oil cooler 30 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr
 
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A mate has been helping me (he knows what to do and I get to swing the spanners) sort out the carbs using his 02 kit, very helpful! After working our way through a few main jet sizes and needle clip positions we are very close to dialing in the carbs. 02 readings for idle 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 throttle position are done and dusted with only WOT needing a fraction more fuel to be happy. Will be fitting the next size up main jets and test riding on Monday if the weather is fine. When we started dialing in the carbs the DW Kat had plenty of get up and go with a crisp throttle response delivering instant power compared to my stock Kat however, this is a different animal. The 36 mm carbs, no airbox, 60 mm I.D. 4 - 1 exhaust system and Yoshi cams bolted to the 1135 EF engine is nothing like a stock Kat. At first I was very happy with the DW set up as I have been riding my stock Kat for the last 38 years and this was my benchmark. But now after some tinkering with the carbs using the 02 kit the improvements to performance are amazing and at this stage there really isn't a need to go any further as WOT riding is pretty much never going to happen when it pulls 100 kph (60 mph) using less than 1/8 throttle however, when you are so close to having a ride well sorted why not go all in!

The 02 kit is only a temporary install while we work on the carbs so the 02 sensor and exhaust pipe sleeve are a slip fit and sealed with aluminium tape to prevent false readings.
02 Kit 1 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


02 gauge.
02 dial by Max Mutarn, on Flickr
 
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The 02 sensor reading shows that at WOT things could be improved a fraction by going up a size in main jets so today was swapping main jets day. Removing and installing the carbs is so quick and easy on this build because it isn't fitted with an airbox, with the tank off and throttle cable released, it is just the four inlet boot clamps to release and slid the carbs out. Larger jets are now installed and ready for testing with the 02 sensor tomorrow.

I reshaped a screwdriver to match the Mikuni jet slot, doing this eliminates damage to the jet shoulders that a standard screwdriver causes due to the screwdriver taper putting pressure on the jet top edge and none on the lower section of the jet slot.
Carb 20 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Carb 30 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Carb 31 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr
 
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The test ride with the new jets went pretty well and the 02 readings have the carbs almost in the sweet spot, almost. WOT is still the problem child however, another jet size up should fix the issue. I am out of jets now so the next size will be ordered today and should arrive by next Monday all going well.
 
Dude (that's how we talk in the north), I might have a serious issue with your "DW" project for the first time. It all depends; it might just be a translation error (my Austrian has never been fluent).

You mentioned that "WOT" would never be used when riding this bike. Does WOT stand for 'wide open throttle' on your end of the planet? If so, I can no longer be associated with this project. Let me know, so I can go back and delete all of my posts on this thread. I wouldn't want it to appear that I approve of such a fanatical riding philosophy. :mad:

Of course, you may wish to retract your statement. Maybe you were having a bad day. It happens. Perhaps you were at the beach and got some sand in your va jay jay. :-k :nonchalance::mushroom::lol::eek::rolleyes:

Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe "Wide Open Throttle" doesn't even mean what I think it does. I thought it meant twisting the throttle as far as possible on a motorcycle, and 'flooring' it on a car. Pedal to the metal.

Maybe I'm wrong, and the terminology has changed. If so, I apologize. But let's clear this up ASAP. Okay?
 
Yep, WOT means the same thing here. It'll be a pity to see you go however, I understand you have to standby your values. Hope you don't pick up a repetitive strain injury tapping "Delete". ;)
 
Hoping the weather is fine at some stage over the weekend so I can take the DW on test ride with the latest main jets that I installed this week. I noticed an oil weep around the oil sensor plate, checked the plate while the carbs were removed and sure enough the oil pressure o-ring and oil sensor plate o-ring were past their prime. Bought new o-rings, sealing washers and bolts for the plate. Installed the new seals so that should take care of the oil weep issue.

Latest main jets installed.
Main jet by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Oil sensor plate
Oil press sensor 2 by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Oil sensor plate by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

Old vs new oil pressure sensor o-ring.
Oil pressure sensor o-ring by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Old vs new oil sensor plate o-ring.
Oil sensor plate o-rings by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

Latest main jets installed and oil sensor o-rings, bolts and seals replaced, now just waiting for a fine day.
 
One of these days I'm going to try a jet change with the carbs still installed on the engine. It'll take patience but I think I can do it. The stock airbox/airfilter on these bikes is a hassle for sure.

Yeah, totally agree with you on that one, carbs off, carbs on with the stock airbox is no fun at all! Changing the main jets with the carbs in place is doable and as you say patience is the key when doing it that way. A short shank angled blade screwdriver made to length would be helpful. Another thing that would be helpful in future, is once the fuel bowls are removed, swap the fuel bowl screws for allen head bolts, much easier to remove the bowls and re-fit with an allen key in the restricted space rather than with a stumpy screwdriver.
 
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At last, a fine sunny day! Took the DW out for a test ride with the latest main jets and the 02 sensor numbers are looking pretty good.

From idle at 12.7 through the 5 throttle settings to WOT at 13.2, not perfect but pretty close. Speed readings for 40 kph, 60 kph, 80 kph and 100kph are all 12.4.

Throttle is crisp with instant power in all gears and no lag at all. Made some minor suspension adjustments and set the front tyre pressure at 34 PSI and the rear at 40 PSI. Steering is light and very responsive with minimal input needed to turn or change the riding line when deep into the corner at any speed. Suspension front and rear is smooth and handles bumps and uneven surfaces so well there is no need to try and dodge the road bumps. So carbs and suspension are now sorted. Next job is to install the oil cooler.
 
Dunno, Captain America had no front brake; that's what I call some serious weight savings...
 
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