1981 Kawasaki GPz550: Restoration

[GSX1000E]

Spray adhesive on the back and then cover the entire label with clear packaging tape.

 

[chuck hahn]

I use a thin smear of contact cement on the stickers and let it dry. Apply.

 

[Nessism]

Clear mylar label overlay materials exist in the marketplace Steve. We use such material over the top of Brady labels applied to aerospace products we ship where I work. I'll talk to the production guys and come up with the specific brand and model of the tape we use. My offer still stands to send you some too. Look for a PM early next week. If I forget, please remind me.

 

[srsupertrap]

Did some assembly work this weekend & tonight. I carefully removed the swingarm roller bearings with a drift, then cleaned and greased them. They felt real smooth so I reinstalled them despite the manual stating they would be damaged during removal.

 

[srsupertrap]

Cleaned up the Frt. pads and found they are dual compound although from this pic you cannot tell . . . I will use them again



Wrapped all the Russell brake lines in clear Tygon tubing because they were cutting into other metal things especially the rear brake line



New EBC pads on the back. Took I guess on the Tokico brake carrier color. . . better than yuck brown


Kept the original brake caliper color because it wasn't really scratched up but need a couple of new bleeders too.

 

[srsupertrap]

Thanks to Ed for sending me a couple of clear mylar labels for my tattered VIN label; I flattened the label in a text book & applied the mylar below. I need it for the VIN verification



Thanks to Chuck & GSX1000E for the tip on the glue, I used the Weldwood glue


Clock cleaning



Been replacing all the heat shrinking & bulbs too









Bent back into shape

 

[srsupertrap]

The wiring harness needed some help so I replaced torn pieces of heat shrink. This big piece of heat shrink is for the headlight wiring harness.


Cleaned the wires with Gumout and used contact cleaner on the connectors

 

[srsupertrap]

Have Good News & Bad News but I should have left well enough alone


I found out the hard way the odometer trip reset knob above is a solid one piece screw on design. To remove the meter housings you have to break or cut off the knob. I initially thought I could remove the knob by heating it with a hair dryer & pulling it off. That didn't budge so I tried the heat gun a the lowest setting which deformed the knob so I pulled it off in disgust.



Now I need a make shift reset knob, probably two pieces would be easiest to find. The critical dimensions are

Reset Knob OD 1.07"
Knob Width: 0.32"
Shaft OD: 0.25"
Shaft ID: 0.09"
Shaft Length:1.25"

I could swear this like something from a AM/FM radio . . . alternative suggestion welcome

PS: I think this is it . . . KZ1300 trip knob

Scored a flat KZ550 Seat off EBAy. Love the pink

 

[Montanaman]

I've got a parts speedo if you need something, let me know.

 

[Guest]

I think nothing speaks more about the quality of a resto than how much attention is given to the wiring loom (given that it's mostly hidden from view and fiddly to deal with). Well done!

 

[srsupertrap]

I think nothing speaks more about the quality of a resto than how much attention is given to the wiring loom (given that it's mostly hidden from view and fiddly to deal with). Well done!

psyguy,
thanks for the words of encouragement.

Steve

 

[srsupertrap]

Here are some photos from the weekend's work. Next I have to figure out how to torque the rotor, secondary shaft nut & clutch hub nut
Assembly lube on the crankshaft bearing surfaces



Sprung for a new cam chain



The old one had stretched a bit



Per Ed's recommendation ready for the ThreeBond 1184



Sure is hard to fit case halves by yourself but it looks right.



New oil pump screws, tightened with Impact driver with Loctite green



I trimmed off the excess blue RTV afterwards . . . Might have to remove the pan again to torque the clutch hub nut but its sitting pretty on its oil pan

 

[srsupertrap]

With the much appreciated help from cdnoel (Chris who lives in Colorado Springs) we installed the GPz engine 1-2-3. Truth be told it took about an hour because I didn't want to scratch anything





Chris mentioned he's had these bosses break so I tried inserting shims when torqueing the bolt.


I inserted a 3/8 inch extension wrapped in some fabric tape through con rod small ends to lock the crank while torque the clutch hub nut. I put a thin piece of hard rubber under the extension right at cam chain tunnel. Got that tip from the GPz 550 forum



New EBC clutch springs for $10. I discovered today after checking the manual that this GPz has an extra steel & fiber disc installed. Guess its Barnet extra clutch plate kit . . .



Installed & routed the Dyna III. Question: The Dyna rotor which slips over the over the stock advance unit has a p-up sensor (magnet I think). You can install it 0 or 180 degrees out. Can anyone verify with motor set at T 1-4 like a Suzuki whether that sensor is facing the right or left.

Pretty sure its right?



Next I will install the oil cooler, pistons, jugs & degreeing cams.
BTW anyone have a RK 520 chain master link with a clip which accommodates O-rings? This chain came with a master which needs to be riveted . .. .

 

[Big T]

Looking good!

You should be able to get the master link from Z1

 

[Rob S.]

Just went back to the first post of the thread. Sorry you missed your June deadline, but it's still August, and that means plenty of summer left, even way up there.

Any chance of some pics "mocked up" with tank and side covers? Hope you won't be changing the original paint scheme.

Re your statement that the GPz is really a race bike: Cycle World declared (way back then) that it was the first bike that could be raced in completely stock form.

Keep up the good work!

 

[cowboyup3371]

Some good progress there Steve

 

[posplayr]

Build looks really good.

 

[srsupertrap]

Thanks for all the positive feedback . . . Big T, Rob.S, cowboyup3371 & posplayr.

Rob to answer your question I won't be changing the color scheme & probably won't paint till next year at this rate. It will like the first photo but with a black exhaust & bit shinier

Steve

 

[srsupertrap]

I am moving onto checking piston ring end gap (Wiseco XC 61mm 615cc) & want to verify the process. Using Wiseco formula & numbers below

Q: What is the proper ring end gap for my GPz550?
A. This chart will help illustrate the minimum ring end gaps:

[TABLE="class: grid, width: 500, align: left"]
[TR]
[TD]Top Ring
[/TD]
[TD]2nd Ring
[/TD]
[TD]Oil Rail
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]0.004"
[/TD]
[TD]0.005"
[/TD]
[TD]0.015"
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]




Multiply your bore size in inches times the value on the table above (to convert metric bore to inches, divide your metric bore x 25.4. For example, 61mm divided by 25.4 = 2.4015?, multiply this times the value on the chart)

Top Ring: 2.4015 x .004" = .0096"
2'nd Ring 2.4015 x .005" = .0120"
Oil rail: 2.4015 x .015" = .0360"

How do you measure & what depth should these measurements be taken. I have no bore gages at home just feeler gages

 

[Nessism]

Assuming you don't have a bunch of cylinder wear, it doesn't matter much how deep you go into the cylinder before measuring. 1/2" - 1" is plenty.