• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

  • In order to help others find info on a particular bike, be sure to put the year, make or model of bike that you are asking a question about, in the Topic Title. This will allow people to pass by posts they have no interest in.

1981 Kawasaki GPz550: Restoration

They did sandblast everything, I stopped by a couple of days before I picked it up.

Sprockets & Chains: I have to replace my chain because its kaput. I am switching from the 530 to 520 chain because the 84-86 GPz550's which made 65HP were equipped with a 520 chain from the factory.

I also found a set of JT sprockets on Amazon
Front: http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF516-16-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B0031702MA $12.50
Rear: http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTR478-38-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B006SRYIB6 $ $21.62

Any recommendations for a 520 O-ring chain? Never used JT chains I am only experienced with RK630 chains.
 
The GPz550 rear brake pads were almost down to metal & the disc needed replacement or help. I decided to have the disc resurfaced with a rotary surface grinder.

001-20.jpg


After

001-21.jpg


002-21.jpg


Anyone know of a source for just the black seal on the tire air valve assembly below? GPz 550 has tubeless tires

011-8.jpg
 
You can buy tubeless motorcycle tire valve stems at NAPA for something like $5.00. They fit right in the chamfered hole.
 
Those disc's look awesome Steve. How much did it cost you to have them machined?
 
Griffin said:
You can buy tubeless motorcycle tire valve stems at NAPA for something like $5.00. They fit right in the chamfered hole.

I will check it out this weekend, Thanks

Those disc's look awesome Steve. How much did it cost you to have them machined?

Thanks Ed, Not cheap @ $55 per but beats the EBC alternative. It's same guy who used to advertise on EBay around 2009.
 
And how much was taken off each side? And how much is left as far as wear limit per the service manual? I am not familiar with what the original thickness and wear limits on nthe GPZ is so that why I ask.
 
My GPz 550 hardware was actually in very good condition from the axles up but after being inspired by Ed's plating results I decided to replate the hardware and push out the completion date. I contacted Specialty Plating (ISO 9001:2008) in Denver and spoke with Heather the Shop Manager. She told me they handle lots of enthusiasts jobs and they recently installed new tanks and recertified their zinc plating process. She confirmed type I finish would produce a bright zinc finish. I dropped off 340 pieces of hardware which was plated to ASTM B633 Type I Clear Zinc

Before:
003-22.jpg


006-15.jpg


013-7.jpg


AFTER
004-1-1.jpg


002-22.jpg
 
Last edited:
Very nice! Maybe a dumb question but is there a build up on the threads? What happens when you tap a screw?
 
By build up on threads . . . . your worried if a bolt/screw is "replated" the M6/M8 thread major diameter will be significantly larger than a OEM bolt/screw which when installed will strip the mating threads?

If that's the question, the plating shop strips the metal part by washing them removing the original finish. The bolt/screw is now back to its machined dimensions. Ed did this by dunking his hardware in phosphoric acid & then wiring wheeling the hardware. Most plating shops have this process automated. When I asked the Plating Manager should I strip all the hardware in phosphoric acid before dropping them off she said don't bother. If you go the commercial route understand the plating shop capabilities, i.e. do they have barrel tumbler & do they certify their work to ASTM or MIL-Std. She did add Dawn dish detergent is one of the best degreaser out there for what its worth
 
Last edited:
And how much was taken off each side? And how much is left as far as wear limit per the service manual? I am not familiar with what the original thickness and wear limits on nthe GPZ is so that why I ask.

I'm wondering the same. When I enquired from a few shops locally I was told the rotors (GS850 in my case) don't have enough meat so grinding them leaves them below the serviceable limit
 
The KZ rotors are fat, grinding on them should be no problem.

Plating looks good Steve. I've yet to experience any issues with too much plating thickness in the threads on my stuff. Take a nut and try to spin it onto a matching bolt to test.
 
T I've yet to experience any issues with too much plating thickness in the threads on my stuff. Take a nut and try to spin it onto a matching bolt to test.

I've had some OEM bolts/nuts triple chromed and still there were no issues. Obviously, zinc plating is a lot thinner so no worries
 
By build up on threads . . . . your worried if a bolt/screw is "replated" the M6/M8 thread major diameter will be significantly larger than a OEM bolt/screw which when installed will strip the mating threads?

I thought the OEM bolts/nuts are Metric, no?
 
I thought the OEM bolts/nuts are Metric, no?

Yep you are right, it sounded right when I wrote it. Although the PO did install 1/4-20 bolts in the cam bearing caps.

Changing subjects, the local powder coater will be done with the wheels early this week. I have a new set of bearings to install but have not decided on a set of tires. Big T suggested sticking with Avon's which is a sure bet but I noticed the Pirelli Sport Demons are bit cheaper @ Dennis Kirk. Didn't Renobruce use a set of Sport Demons on one of his GS1000's . . . don't recall his experience with them.

Any other opinions/experience with the Pirelli's Sport demons?
 
I put Conti Go's on my 750. No personal experience with them but Continental don't make junk. They were the cheapest of the top brands at the time I shopped too.

http://www.americanmototire.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=33_108_871


CONTINENTAL CONTI GO 4.00-18 M/C 64H, REAR $92.55

CONTINENTAL CONTI GO 3.25-19 M/C 54H, FRONT $77.76

Sub-Total: $170.31 + free shipping
 
Last edited:
My experience with Sport Demons is that they are rather soft compound (compared to Metzeler that I typically use).

Choice of tyre is also dependent on how / when you ride.

Both Bridgestone and Pirelli I tried had better traction when cold and in the wet but the centre of the tires wore out too quickly compared to Metzeler. With properly inflated and warmed up Metzelers I never had any slippage even when pushing the GS850 to the limits and they gave me better mileage than either Bridgestone or Pirelli.

We don't get Conti's here I don't think.
 
I had a Sport Demon on the front of my 650G, it was sticky but I couldn't really test it aggressively, there was a Spitfire on the back, it was not so sticky.. When I finally put the Roadrider on the back the Sport Demon was pretty worn, but it was still plenty sticky.

I would be happy with a pair of either one.
 
I have Conti "Blitz" tires on my S model. I like the round profile on them but I'm a bit disappointed in the handling. They never feel completely planted..not the most confidence inspiring tires. The best tires I ever had were Michelin Macadam 50's. LOVED those tires. Had them on every bike I owned. Can't seem to find them anymore which is why I went with the Continentals on the S. The Avon Road Riders on my 400F seem very good so far, too.
 
And how much was taken off each side? And how much is left as far as wear limit per the service manual? I am not familiar with what the original thickness and wear limits on nthe GPZ is so that why I ask.

Chuck,
There is no perfect solution because Kawi OEM discs are either not readily available or they cost $250. The next option would be to find a used one on EBay and hope for the best. Next spendy option is aftermarket manufacturers but that could quickly top $500 if you replace all three discs and then they don't look original. . . So to answer your question

Specification Limit 6.00mm
Rear Disc (Now): 5.38mm

I am happy with my decision and will remember to use the front brakes more often.
 
Back
Top