1981 Kawasaki GPz550: Restoration

[srsupertrap]

Removed the idle air screws and they were all set at 3/4 turn out . . . this is after clean up.

 

[Guest]

Good god. Those aren't like rebuilding a set of VM's, that's for sure. Looks like you're doing a top end rebuild on an engine I can see why you're taking all the photos. Sure enjoying the thread so far, thanks.

 

[srsupertrap]

I want to thank Peter (madmito) a brand new member on The GPz550 forum for posting the Moriwaki KZ550 Cam Installation Instructions. That gives me the valve lash to set both my GPz550 cams to (.005 to .007"). Second he still has the cams in the box (See Below).

If he measures the cam lobe lift I can compare that measurement to the 8.25mm reading I measured on the Moriwaki Cams installed in my GPz550 which eliminates the need to measure cam duration & determine opening & closing numbers. Then I can focus on degreeing the cams.

That's madmito . . . looks like Dainese Leathers

 

[srsupertrap]

I keep forgetting which way do DOHC valve/bucket shims wear over time? Looking at the photo can I expect the Ex .007" to become tighter/looser over the next thousands of miles?

Thanks

 

[Guest]

Hi Steve, The clearances will get tighter as the seats wear. Ray

 

[srsupertrap]

Hi Ray,
Thanks for helping out . . . BTW how is your GS1000S doing. Planning to take a New Years Day ride?

Steve


Back to the Carbs, a GSer mentioned how good Simple Green is for cleaning. I cleaned the outside of the carbs and I agree.

#1 goes into the tank

Shipped out my valve shims today to Corey who is the Administrator on The GPz550 Forum.

 

[GregT]

Looking good...

Re the 32.5 pilot jets, don't assume they are too big till you try them...33mm flatslides on a 550 won't have a lot of airspeed at small openings. I've run bigger pilots on bored GSXR flatslides on 750's...Speedway TQ's actually which must respond in a single gear so do get run rich low down, but the principal is the same.

Those carbs probably are the GSXR750 racekit carbs - or what were sold as kit carbs...Midway between the road GSXR carbs and the RS series which came a year or so later.

 

[Guest]

Just found a ton of parts!

http://louisville.craigslist.org/mcy/4240087129.html

 

[srsupertrap]

Looking good...

Re the 32.5 pilot jets, don't assume they are too big till you try them...33mm flatslides on a 550 won't have a lot of airspeed at small openings. I've run bigger pilots on bored GSXR flatslides on 750's...Speedway TQ's actually which must respond in a single gear so do get run rich low down, but the principal is the same.

Those carbs probably are the GSXR750 racekit carbs - or what were sold as kit carbs...Midway between the road GSXR carbs and the RS series which came a year or so later.

GregT,
I believe you are correct. Corey Clough on the GPz550 forum has a set of these same Carbs and when I asked him if he could check, he replied the Pilots were #35 while the mains were 117.5's.

These "GSXR750 racekit carbs" use the same Mikuni pilot jet as the GS1000/750 VM series carbs and those pilots were #15 from the factory. These carbs also do not have a fuel screw like the RS34s on my GS1100 2V. If nothing else they are rare. Hope they work good

Just found a ton of parts!.

Thanks for looking out for me 83GS1100E_Tornado, I appreciate it. That one is a little far but if you come across a 1981 let me know because I am searching for an OEM seat & maybe a Bassani too.

 

[Big T]

Just found a ton of parts!

http://louisville.craigslist.org/mcy/4240087129.html

The 1981 is a one year only bike and almost no parts from an 85 interchange

 

[srsupertrap]

Kinda waiting on different parts so today I removed the Fox Street Shox, the right side one was leaking but I think they might only need new seals and a thorough cleaning. I will find out when Evolution Suspension tears them down next week. A couple of pics to follow &

Carb cleaning residue? The Mikuni carb bodies have Berryman residue even though I sprayed them down with Gumout right after removing them from the dip tank? I think one gallon dates back to 2008 and may be too dirty? Any suggestions to remove the sticky Berryman residue?

The leaker

No fuss, just more money

 

[srsupertrap]

High of 13F in Colorado Springs today. Here is one of the Flatslides disassembled. The needles are 5FL14 on the 3rd clip. Cleaned up very well by just spraying them down with Gumout.

Corey who is the Administrator on the GPz550 forum showed me this Carburetor schematic from a 1986 Suzuki Gsx-r750 (g). They are pretty close to what I have.

 

[Big T]

Try hot water (really hot), detergent (maybe simple Green) and a tooth brush

Dunk them in hot water/detergent mix for a few minutes, pull out scrub, rinse, repeat

Then dry them in/out with air hose

 

[srsupertrap]

I got a lot done today but ran into a problem on the cylinder head today. While removing the valve cover & cams a couple weeks back I found the valve cover bolt that goes thru the half moon gasket had previously cracked the head directly below the bolt. Pointer . . .

The bolt & threads were corroded so being careful I chased the threads with a M6 tap.

And as expected the fractured piece broke off. The valve cover bolt threads are barely visible at the top of the break & I believe the valve cover bolt can be tightened down. What I am concerned with is that bolt goes through the half moon gasket so it would likely leak oil unless sealed.

What do you think? Reassembly then RTV threaded area & Epoxy the little broken piece back into place

 

[nvr2old]

I'll bet JB Weld or Liquid steel would work great for that repair. Clean it well where the pieces meet and apply the JB to both parts before attaching. Maybe run the tap through one more time after it dries.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Rather than JB Weld I suggest an aluminum-based epoxy, such as Hypoxy Alumfast.

 

[srsupertrap]

I'll bet JB Weld or Liquid steel would work great for that repair. Clean it well where the pieces meet and apply the JB to both parts before attaching. Maybe run the tap through one more time after it dries.

Rather than JB Weld I suggest an aluminum-based epoxy, such as Hypoxy Alumfast.

Cool, the Hypoxy Alumfast stuff is available on Amazon.com. That little sheared off piece does not fit like a glove or snap into place. Think its best to just fill the area with epoxy, shape it and paint or try to refit the sheared piece?

Thanks for the help.

 

[koolaid_kid]

The epoxy is intended only as a type of glue, not to replace an actual metal part.

 

[srsupertrap]

Both of the #5 Cam Bearing Cap bolts (Intake #1) were stripped & bear to remove. Tried running my M6 tap down one hole and it stopped. Not wanting to relive the joy of removing a broken tap I decided to have a look inside. It had been repaired already with a helicoil. I fished out the helicoil with a dental pick & Vice Grips

Same thing on the rear one. I then realized these smuckleheads repaired the threads with the wrong helicoil size . . . probably 1/4-20

They installed the dowel pins in the wrong orientation too, bevel side should be up. What else did they do wrong?

The helicoil drill size 1/4 fit perfectly in the cam bearing cap hole so I use it to guide the drill. I mark the drill depth with a Sharpie as shown.

A quick ream on both sides

Then helicoil tap both bolt holes

Don't use Helicoils often but sure beats removing the Cylinder Head. I run the inserts down, reinstall the cam bearing cap run the a couple of good M6 bolts down and ops check GOOD!

 

[Nessism]

No wonder the PO sold the bike so cheap. He knew where the skeletons lay and had a conscious.