1982 GS650GL Valve Adjustment quick question

[Cmarino]

About to do my valves, but I am unsure if they are 'normal' valves, or if will be one of the shim valve setups. Also, are there any recommended sites for new valve cover gasket?


I see the '16 valve guide' on bike cliffs site, but I am just unsure if that is the same for my bike.

Any other advice or things that are good to know for doing the valves on these bikes, please let me know.

Thanks

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

No, the 650s are all 8 valve engines w/ Shim over bucket. Nothing in that 16 valve manual is for you. Look at the 650G Service manual on BikeCliff's website.

Looking at partshark.com for a valve cover gasket for your bike shows 2 different valve cover designs, with a gasket specific to each.

https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/l/suz/50d3fdb8f8700230d8b4dae8/1982-gs650gl-parts

Both show as unavailable so copy the part number from the one that matches your valve cover design and search ebay. There may still be some OEM NOS gaskets out there.

 

[cowboyup3371]

The Valve Adjustment procedure you'll find on the website is for all shim over bucket setups so if you follow those steps you'll do good.

 

[Who Dat?]

The difference in the two gaskets is that one is for 16 bolts, the other has 17 bolts. They are NOT interchangeable.

The early '82s had 16 bolts, the later ones had 17. The extra bolt is at front-center.

 

[Cmarino]

Thanks for all the info, especially to check the number of bolts. Where can I find the valve shims that I need?

 

[Cmarino]

Also I hear that clearance is .003-.005, does that sound right?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

You have to know whether your talking inches or millimeters. And, those numbers are in the manual.

 

[Who Dat?]

Also I hear that clearance is .003-.005, does that sound right?

Specified clearance is 0.03 - 0.08 mm, which is pretty close to 0.001 - 0.003".
Many here will go as large as 0.10mm or 0.004". Up to those limits, larger is better.

Where to get shims? Z1 Enterprises is usually a good place, just make sure you get 29.5mm diameter shims.
Some Yamahas and Kawasakis use 29.0mm shims, it's easy to mix them up.

Measure your clearances and your shims before purchasing any, there is no need for buying extra shims in a "kit".

Look up some old posts by "Steve", there is a link in his signature to get a spreadsheet that helps you determine what you need.

 

[sacruickshank]

Advance notice ... when checking and setting valves on these bikes, the biggest hassle is usually removing the petrified gasket from the cyl head and valve cover. It will take a lot of patience, chems, heat, and tools to get the surfaces clean. After using plastic scrapers, screw drivers, paint scrapers, scothbrote pads, dremel scouring heads, etc. the best tool i've found is a carbide tipped gasket scraper. This will guage your cyl head if used carelessly, so go slowly, keep it flat to the surface. the dremel heads work well but are expensive since they wear quickly. you also don't want any scothbrite material in the cyl head or engine areas.

If your gasket comes off cleanly run out and buy a lottery ticket 'cause it's your lucky day.

 

[Burque73]

And when you put the new gasket on give it a light smear of grease so next time it'll come off in one piece, maybe to be reused again.

 

[Gorminrider]

and if the price of the gasket makes you sick, cut your own from gasket paper of a similar thickness.

 

[Cmarino]

Hey everyone - here's my update.

I just check clearances for all valves, had less than ideal results -

12 - .004 in
3 - .0025
9 - .004
10 -.004

All of the other valves were smaller than my smallest feeler gauge, .0015

There was also significantly noticeable wear on exhaust valves for cylinder 2-3. I can attach a picture if that does not sound normal.

Also these were all measured with the lobes parallel, making sure to measure the exhaust, rotate a little and then measure the intake

What should my next steps be? Are those .004 clearances too large? For the ones that I can't measure, should I just see what the shim size is, and try to estimate to get to .003? Or is it worth buying new feelers

First time obviously doing these, any advice appreciated

 

[Who Dat?]

Your next step should be to measure them properly, then show some numbers that make sense.

12 - .004 in
3 - .0025
9 - .004
10 -.004"

What are those numbers on the left side? It can't be the number of valves with those clearances, there aren't that many valves. It can't be the number of the valve, either, because there are not that many valves.

You say "these were all measured with the lobes parallel". Parallel to WHAT?
In your first post, you mentioned being on BassCliff's site (and mentioned the wrong file). Follow the guide that is written up for the 8-valve engines. Start with EX 1, position the cam lobe so it is pointing forward, parallel to the ground, pointing at the edge of the head. Notice that the cam lobe for EX 2 will be pointing straight up. WITHOUT MOVING ANYTHING, measure the clearance for EX 1 and EX 2. Use a 19mm wrench on the right end of the crank, move the crank 180 degrees clockwise (forward). You will notice that the cam lobe for IN 1 is pointing up, and IN 2 is pointing to the back. Without moving anything, measure the clearance for IN 1 and IN 2. Move the crank another 180 degrees, check EX 3 and EX 4. Rotate the crank a final 180 degrees, check IN 3 and IN 4.

Back to the clearances you posted: the numbers are fine, but since you didn't measure them properly, ignore them and do them over.

After you get all your clearances recorded, you need to check EVERY shim to see what size it is. You NEED to do that for every valve that is tight, but you SHOULD also do it for the others, just so you know what's in there. Did you take the suggestion in post [NODE="8"]n[/NODE]umber 8 to get the spreadsheet from "Steve"? It's rather handy to keep track of what you need, and also helps you predict what you might need on the next adjustment session. I have used that sheet for years.

 

[alke46]

You need to learn the proper positioning of the cams to get truer results. It is spelled out in the shop manual for your model. Basically, you start by having No.1 EX cam lobe pointing forward, which puts No.2 Ex cam pointing north. Measure both then rotate the engine 180? and now you can measure No.1 and No.2 INT clearances.
Another 180? gets you ready for the No.3 and No.4 EX clearances. One last 180? rotation for the No.3 and No. 4 INT clearances.

Hope this helps and remember, never rotate the cams without a shim in the bucket. If needed, you can use a quarter to replace a shim so you don't damage a cam lobe or an empty bucket.

 

[alke46]

Who Dat? beat me to the finish line but you will see there is a "proper" way to do this job.

edit: If you can't get a spreadsheet, at least record the sizes and numbers printed on the underside of the shim for future reference. It's not rocket science but it does need to be done properly..

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Cmarino, if you have no luck getting a response from member Steve (he hasn't been around lately and I don't see his email on his profile anymore), let me know. The spreadsheet is on my home computer and I can send it to you. You have to have excel, you don't necessarily have to be very good at using Excel to use the spreadsheet. I had steve send me his spreadsheet that will help to organize what clearances you have/shims you have vs. clearances you need/shims you may need or can swap. You see, I asked Steve to send me the spreadsheet before I knew any better. My bike has the 16 valve engine, not shim over bucket, but clearance adjusted with a different process. That is to say, we all start somewhere, knowing very little. Coming here opens up a lot of knowledge.

 

[Cmarino]

Who Dat? To answer some questions - I remeasured the 'correct' way, the results stayed the same but two of the gaps slightly tightened. The numbers on the left I was referring to are the numbers imprinted on the head next to each valve. You can see them here if you zoom in to the pictures. I measured with each lobe parallel to the head initially, I don't really see how measuring this way could significantly change the results.

I don't plan on keeping the bike another 3k miles, so I will probably not check the valve shims that I listed, they all seem to be close enough in spec, unless there's another good reason besides for future reference that someone suggests. For all of the cylinders that I could not get a measurement on, should I order all new shims based on this -

My smallest gauge, .0015 can not get in 4/8 valves

( .003(spec) - .001(current estimated gap) ) + old shim size ?

 

[Cmarino]

Thanks for all the advice by the way everyone. I am aware to record the shim size and gap for each cylinder, so I should be okay without the spreadsheet

 

[Guest]

Those numbers that you put in the left column don't mean a darn thing related to numbering the valve. In fact, I doubt that anyone outside of the factory that made the head even has a clue what they are for, but ignore them and toss them away.

The difference in measuring the correct way is that, when in that position, neither lobe on that side of the cam is pushing on a valve. Pushing on the valve would push the cam away from the valve and squeeze the oil out, giving just a bit of 'extra' room on the other valve.

Please do it the right way or don't bother doing it at all.