1982 GS750T - Engine... Out.

[SamLack99]

I read the manual.

I watched every single video on YouTube.

And I gotta say...

...Getting Suzy's engine out was an absolute pig.

Getting the engine raised high enough for the sump to clear the frame...

...Whilst leaving enough clearance at the top for the cylinder head cover.

In the end, I had to remove the cylinder head cover and one of the coil assemblies.

Which wouldn't have been too bad if I'd done it whilst the engine was still bolted to the frame.

Anyway...

...It's out.

Unfortunately, the abba engine stand I bought for it, don't fit.

So I'm gonna have to get all the paint off, repair the battery acid corrosion on the frame and check the valves BEFORE my wife realises her kitchen kick step has gone missing =)

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you had asked I would have told you to remove the coils and valve cover before trying to remove the engine from the frame. You didn't ask. Anyway, there's a couple of rebuild stories in my signature regarding this bike. Some of it may help. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Can't help you with the paint removal. That may depend on what type of paint stripping chemicals you can get your hands on in the UK.

If you can see my signature, click BikeCliff's website link and grab the GS750ET Service Manual Supplement. It's helpful and covers some things in more detail than you'll find in your Clymer's book. Here's the link if you can't see my signature. https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/

You guys that do this kind of tinkering in your back yard (garden) really impress me. I don't think I would try this if I didn't have a garage/workshop.

Good Luck.

 

[Rijko]

I like to remove all parts from the bike, loosen all engine mount bolts, put frame/engine on its side and lift off the frame.

Not much extra work in my opinion.
Same thing for reinstalling the engine.

Oh, should you take out the front wheel .... may wanna swap discs left/right

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Rijko,
I didn't notice that at first. It does appear that the slots on the rotor are oriented the wrong way, like someone switched in a right from another bike. Would there be anything wrong with that other that aesthetics? I believe mine is proper. The T only has a single front disk.

 

[unfocused]

try stuffing a 78 GS1000 engine in a 77 GS750 frame that people across the WWW say it'll slide right in... uh huh. I can prove them wrong LOL

 

[Rijko]

Rijko,
I didn't notice that at first. It does appear that the slots on the rotor are oriented the wrong way, like someone switched in a right from another bike. Would there be anything wrong with that other that aesthetics? I believe mine is proper. The T only has a single front disk.

I do not know enough about that to answer that well, Rich.

I read up on this topic years ago and found many conflicting opinions, even by experts.

The orientation as on your bike is how Suzuki mounted the discs.
This way debrees and water are slung out and away, not inward to be re-intruduced to the brake system (reducing brake power and accelerating wear).
Theoretically - i never noticed less brake power or pads wearing out faster on bikes that i worked on.
So yes, with our Suzukis i call it aesthetics.

Ventilated or vaned discs are directional.

 

[Grimly]

Rijko,
I didn't notice that at first. It does appear that the slots on the rotor are oriented the wrong way, like someone switched in a right from another bike. Would there be anything wrong with that other that aesthetics? I believe mine is proper. The T only has a single front disk.

Won't make the slightest bit of difference.

 

[Rijko]

The T only has a single front disk.

LOL and i did not notice that until i re-read, even with your remark.
Am used to twin discs i guess, and need to pay more attention reading sometimes

 

[SamLack99]

Thanks for all the comments. Interesting reading.

Fortunately, I've got some paint stripper that works.

Just wish there weren't so many fins to get into =)

 

[Rob S.]

The disc showing in your photo is properly oriented.