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1983 750ES Clutch Noise on Cold

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Gravity Tester

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I have never attempted or even more then wondered what it would take to even check out my clutch so go easy on me.

When motor is cold, gear in neutral, clutch handle untouched RPM below 1100.There is a rattling sound from the clutch area. Noise will go away if I engage the clutch handle or rev the engine over 1100 rpm or after the bike warms up.

Looking for suggestions besides the clutch gasket and oil what else I might need or what am I getting into?

Thanks
Pat
 
Very common problem. Clutch basket springs sag and you get rattle. Tons of threads in the archives on this. You might want to try a search for more info.
 
Yep definitely as Ed says. Some fairly easy/cheap fixes (one is free but who knows how long it will last!)

Dan :)
 
thats funny how you bring this up, my bike JUST STARTED making this clutch rattling noise and i figured hey its the old GS' rattle... i added washers to my spring 1 each and eventually they must have gotten softer so i added 1 more to each, few weeks later my bike is sagging making awful noises again, i think its time i just buy some heavy duty springs
 
GabrielGoes said:
thats funny how you bring this up, my bike JUST STARTED making this clutch rattling noise and i figured hey its the old GS' rattle... i added washers to my spring 1 each and eventually they must have gotten softer so i added 1 more to each, few weeks later my bike is sagging making awful noises again, i think its time i just buy some heavy duty springs
Click to expand...

Did you add washers without separating the backing plate? If so what is preventing the washers coming out when the motor is in motion? Normal practice is to separate the backing plate by grinding the rivet heads off, removing backing plate, inserting hardened steel washers and then have the backing plate replaced and welding the rivets back in place. This keeps the washers captive in the clutch area.

Where do you plan to get the heavier springs from?
 
Suzuki_Don said:
Did you add washers without separating the backing plate? If so what is preventing the washers coming out when the motor is in motion? Normal practice is to separate the backing plate by grinding the rivet heads off, removing backing plate, inserting hardened steel washers and then have the backing plate replaced and welding the rivets back in place. This keeps the washers captive in the clutch area.

Where do you plan to get the heavier springs from?
Click to expand...

oaky so im gonna admit right now i may not know exactly what i was talking about, i was reffering to the individual clutch springs i think mine has about 7 where each one is secured by a bolt.. i plan on getting ebc or barnett clutch springs... is there another area where it uses springs? and what exactly is the backing plate? by the way while i was in there the other week i noticed the big nut that holds the entire basket down was moving all over the place with the lock tab being the only thing not letting it fall off. i torqued it pretty tight on and then applied the tab over the nut very secure...
 
You're talking about different springs. Ed is on about the ones in the backplate. If you pull the clutch out you'll see them.
 
Yep... undo that big nut completely and pull the whole assembly out & you'll see them. That's what makes the noise (or your nut came loose again!)
 
I installed a new one a couple of years ago, it rattled from day one....
 
We'll get some EBC springs for cheap and swap out every other one - scuff up the plates some while we're in there.

Or you can get OEM replacements from Suzuki and do them all.

Don't forget the clutch cover gasket!

Easy job, and as usual cleaning the gasket surface takes the longest. We can do it in your garage in an hour or two, depending on how bad the gasket is.

Fire up that heater!
 
so there the same springs but there just behind the basket? cool im definitely gonna swap em out... i have fairly new NOS clutch plates from oldbikebarn.com i think there pretty awesome
 
Gabriel, here is a picture of the springs we are talking about.
 
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In that pic you can just make out the springs that have been put on the end of each spring as spacer to put the tension back in. You can also see that the rivets have been welded up. When I did that fix it costs me $25 to get it Tig welded back shut again.

The free fix is to insert a screwdriver between the coils & lever the coils apart again to spread the springs... nobody knows how long that particular fix lasts (I did it on one of my bikes & have about 3,00 on it since with no noise).
 
guys when i downshift it takes it a split second longer now for the bike to drop into gear is this a tell tale sign of needing to get new springs for the back of the basket + the front 7 springs?
 
No....

Don you changed the pic... makes my post nonsense... oh well, no change there then :lol: :D
 
So lump me in with the confused crowd. In order to change those springs on the back of the clutch, we need to grind off those rivets and have the backing plate welded back on?
 
Okay, okay - now I'm all caught up.

Always did want to learn to weld. How much would it cost for a TIG-welding setup, ya think?
 
If thats all your going to weld just find a local shop.... Now that I have been reading all this about the clutch noisees !!! Damm it's too cold (9 deg today) to start her up. When spring comes and I bring it out for some fresh air I'm gonna have to listen real close now!

The last time I took it out (with the new clutch springs and recently replaced clutch fibers) it worked great. Great info and it does look like a fairly easy repair. One question I have is (mine might look different) how many and what type of springs do you replace them with, My basket only had (4)..
 
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