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Congrats Pete! Looks great and sounds AWESOME!
Cheers!
Kevin
Cheers!
Kevin
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Guest
Guest
Cheers Kevin! I'm definitely very happy with it 
It also seems I'm on a bit of a roll at the moment!
A mate gave me a new sight glass for the rear M/C reservoir but I figured it wasn't quite right as there was no way I could see it fitting.
I messaged him about something else and mentioned my rear M/C reservoir sight glass issue and of course he had a simple solution... check if I still had the old metal ring in place.
Sure enough I'd painted it in! Along with the remnants of the sight glass and O ring of course.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
So after some stuffing about with a socket, small clamp, and a 10 cent piece, I finally have a complete rear reservoir.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
All I need is a new diaphragm and a couple of nicer hose clamps (the ones I have are corroded from brake fluid) and I can get the rear brake bled.
I must say I'm impressed with that Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black I used to paint all the brake bits. The reservoir copped a bit of a beating last night with the socket slipping etc. but there's not a single scratch or missing bit of paint as a result. The same mate recommended the paint of course, and I see why!
It also seems I'm on a bit of a roll at the moment!
A mate gave me a new sight glass for the rear M/C reservoir but I figured it wasn't quite right as there was no way I could see it fitting.
I messaged him about something else and mentioned my rear M/C reservoir sight glass issue and of course he had a simple solution... check if I still had the old metal ring in place.
Sure enough I'd painted it in! Along with the remnants of the sight glass and O ring of course.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrSo after some stuffing about with a socket, small clamp, and a 10 cent piece, I finally have a complete rear reservoir.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrAll I need is a new diaphragm and a couple of nicer hose clamps (the ones I have are corroded from brake fluid) and I can get the rear brake bled.
I must say I'm impressed with that Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black I used to paint all the brake bits. The reservoir copped a bit of a beating last night with the socket slipping etc. but there's not a single scratch or missing bit of paint as a result. The same mate recommended the paint of course, and I see why!
G
Guest
Guest
Hey Scott I wish! Unfortunately the 450 has become a bit of a time/money leech over the last few weeks with yet another battery/stator replacement and a new tyre. This time 'round I've relocated the battery away from the heat of the exhaust which I hope allows it to last a lot longer.
I did at least get the rear brake bled on the Kat before getting distracted so I know my master cylinder sight glass replacement is good.
Fingers crossed this weekend will see some progress on tidying up the harness and working out where the O2 sensor bung should sit so I can get it welded in.
I did at least get the rear brake bled on the Kat before getting distracted so I know my master cylinder sight glass replacement is good.
Fingers crossed this weekend will see some progress on tidying up the harness and working out where the O2 sensor bung should sit so I can get it welded in.
G
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Guest
Back to it at last!
I was hoping for a little more progress on tidying the harness but I was ultra careful installing the O2 sensor bung as I really didn't want to screw up the headers and it took the whole morning.
I stitch drilled the hole too small intentionally and just took my time opening it up until the bung sat nicely where I wanted it.
My welding wasn't quite attrocious, although I did blow one hole which I managed to fill and I can't see anywhere oxygen will get in.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
My sock filters are on their way from the UK at the moment and next pay should see me ordering the stock rubber intake stacks so hopefully only a few weeks from the second start and getting it somewhat tuned at least at low throttle openings.
I was hoping for a little more progress on tidying the harness but I was ultra careful installing the O2 sensor bung as I really didn't want to screw up the headers and it took the whole morning.
I stitch drilled the hole too small intentionally and just took my time opening it up until the bung sat nicely where I wanted it.
My welding wasn't quite attrocious, although I did blow one hole which I managed to fill and I can't see anywhere oxygen will get in.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrMy sock filters are on their way from the UK at the moment and next pay should see me ordering the stock rubber intake stacks so hopefully only a few weeks from the second start and getting it somewhat tuned at least at low throttle openings.
G
Guest
Guest
I managed to make a little progress yesterday.
My Ramair sock filters arrived the other day, and I ducked over to see a mate during the week to grab the three stock velocity stacks he offered up (he has no clue what happened to the fourth).
One side of the intake is ready at least and next pay I'll buy the missing stack to finish the job.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
I also stopped procrastinating about tidying up the harness so the left side is now all wrapped up. I really need to sort out around the fuse box and relays next up, as well as the battery connections.
I must say I really like that self amalgamating tape, goes on nice and easy and makes it very neat.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
My Ramair sock filters arrived the other day, and I ducked over to see a mate during the week to grab the three stock velocity stacks he offered up (he has no clue what happened to the fourth).
One side of the intake is ready at least and next pay I'll buy the missing stack to finish the job.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrI also stopped procrastinating about tidying up the harness so the left side is now all wrapped up. I really need to sort out around the fuse box and relays next up, as well as the battery connections.
I must say I really like that self amalgamating tape, goes on nice and easy and makes it very neat.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
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Cheers Larry! Yep, at the moment it's just one step at a time. I reckon you're spot on, it will be a much enjoyed reward indeed!
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Guest
Nothing huge in the way of progress but the right side of the harness is now wrapped as much as I can until I get the Acewell to install.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
I've taken the harness off completely now so I can sort out around the fuse box and relays.
I'm thinking I'll take the headers off again before the next start and get them painted as well. I'll give the VHT Flameproof paint a shot as it's supposed to be good stuff.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrI've taken the harness off completely now so I can sort out around the fuse box and relays.
I'm thinking I'll take the headers off again before the next start and get them painted as well. I'll give the VHT Flameproof paint a shot as it's supposed to be good stuff.
Very tidy, Pete.
Which tape did you use on the harness? Heat resistant?
For my SuperHawk this tape was recommended.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...ectrical-Tape-70/?N=5002385+3292437112&rt=rud
I bought the 12 mil. version and it was easy to use. Pliable, seems to be holding up and the colour was almost a dead match to the Honda oem covering.
Which tape did you use on the harness? Heat resistant?
For my SuperHawk this tape was recommended.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...ectrical-Tape-70/?N=5002385+3292437112&rt=rud
I bought the 12 mil. version and it was easy to use. Pliable, seems to be holding up and the colour was almost a dead match to the Honda oem covering.
No personal experience, but I read somewhere that if one shoots the flame resistant paint inside of the headers at the exhaust ports, it can help prolong the paint on the outside by reducing the heat on it.
Suppose it's one of those "can't hurt" items, but seems like it would require a lot of cleaning, and one heck of a strong paint.
Suppose it's one of those "can't hurt" items, but seems like it would require a lot of cleaning, and one heck of a strong paint.
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Cheers Larry, good to know! Did you do anything special prep wise? From what I've discovered so far I just sand back all the old coatings with 120 grit then on with the paint, no need for primer. I've yet to get to the auto store and actually read the can though.
Cheers Charlie!
This one isn't quite so fancy Steve. It's not got that sort of heat rating, which is why I've not used it for anything close to the motor and I stuck with PVC or cloth type insulation there. I do know this one's been used successfully for this sort of wrapping, so I'm happy it will last well enough.
I didn't see that Scotch brand one when I was looking though so it's good to see it exists. The only one I saw with a decent heat rating was about 5 times the price of what I pad for the ones I used which are Fixman brand. This one is 19mm wide and comes in a 10m roll and I'd say it goes on the similar to how you've described the Scotch, very pliable and easy to wrap with.
They don't say quite the same thing on the Speco (VHT) website, but they do say spraying a full can's worth of the white flameproof paint down each header tube will reduce the bluing of chrome and will stop ceramic coating turning brown, so I suspect that might do something for paint as well? That's a lot of paint though! I think I'll stick with just a can for the outside and it's easy enough to take the headers off and repeat in a few years if necessary
http://www.speco.com.au/vht_faq.html
nvr2old
Forum Sage
I didn't prime mine, Pete. I can't remember seeing a Very High Temp primer available, so yeah, I sanded mine with 180 grit and just sprayed the black right on the bare metal and it's stood the test of time really well. After you spray it and let it dry, take a blue paper shop rag to it, and it smooths the paint and gives it a nice sheen.
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Cheers Larry, good to know! They do have a primer available as well as a clear coat, but I've not seen any directions saying to use either so far, and it looks like straight on to the bare metal is the way to go.
I need to service the 450 the weekend after next, so I expect I'll have the paint done in a few weeks which should be good timing to run the motor for the second time with the intake sorted and an AFR metre on the weekend after I paint the headers.
I need to service the 450 the weekend after next, so I expect I'll have the paint done in a few weeks which should be good timing to run the motor for the second time with the intake sorted and an AFR metre on the weekend after I paint the headers.
G
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Guest
Ok, update time finally!
I've been doing stuff, but tidying up the harness has taken forever, trying to get it neat enough around the fuse box and relays etc. and I didn't get all that finished until last night.
So aside from where the Acewell has yet to be factored in on the right hand side, the rest of the harness is complete and installed.
I was planning on using the stock rubber strap for the battery but couldn't quite figure that out, and found out quite conveniently that stretching out a rubber coated P clamp I had lying around was exactly the right length.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
The stock rubber velocity stacks are mounted up with the Ramair sock filters on.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
I also ordered an oil cooler which arrived earlier in the week which I'm pretty sure I've figured how to mount. The only thing I haven't figured out is how to keep the oil lines tidy and away from the headers.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
The horn should end up in almost the same position as it is now, just mounted on the bottom of the oil cooler.
The only catch is I can't leave my indicators where they were mounted on the front subframe parts of the frame downtubes.
I figured I can use the same brackets but mount them from the front subframe itself between the two rubber grommets that hold the side covers on, and they will work quite well there. There will be more clearance than the photo shows as the bottom mount of the side cover isn't completely in the rubber grommet.
Untitled by starpoint73, on Flickr
The 450 needs a service this weekend so I can't see me sorting much more just yet.
I've been doing stuff, but tidying up the harness has taken forever, trying to get it neat enough around the fuse box and relays etc. and I didn't get all that finished until last night.
So aside from where the Acewell has yet to be factored in on the right hand side, the rest of the harness is complete and installed.
I was planning on using the stock rubber strap for the battery but couldn't quite figure that out, and found out quite conveniently that stretching out a rubber coated P clamp I had lying around was exactly the right length.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrUntitled by starpoint73, on FlickrThe stock rubber velocity stacks are mounted up with the Ramair sock filters on.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrI also ordered an oil cooler which arrived earlier in the week which I'm pretty sure I've figured how to mount. The only thing I haven't figured out is how to keep the oil lines tidy and away from the headers.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrThe horn should end up in almost the same position as it is now, just mounted on the bottom of the oil cooler.
The only catch is I can't leave my indicators where they were mounted on the front subframe parts of the frame downtubes.
I figured I can use the same brackets but mount them from the front subframe itself between the two rubber grommets that hold the side covers on, and they will work quite well there. There will be more clearance than the photo shows as the bottom mount of the side cover isn't completely in the rubber grommet.
Untitled by starpoint73, on FlickrThe 450 needs a service this weekend so I can't see me sorting much more just yet.
Looking great. The details really can make or break a job, and clearly you have it covered.
A 1150 oil cooler mounting bracket that fits on the Kat frame might work.
Not sure if you're adding the plastic spoiler above, that spans the space between the mid fairing panels.
Not sure if you're adding the plastic spoiler above, that spans the space between the mid fairing panels.
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Cheers Glen! Pretty happy with it
Carter, I've seen those mounting brackets in the parts fiche when I was working out how the 1150's have them mounted, but I don't think it will help all that much as I'd need to modify it a fair amount. Being an imported 84 frame, this has different cooler mounting spots to the earlier Kats. For instance there are no mounting spots on the frame down tubes at all, just two up the top, then the two for the plastic fake cooler, and then two in the centre of the cross tube where the horn is currently mounted.
I do have the plastic one, but won't be mounting it up again as this cooler will take up most of that space.
Carter, I've seen those mounting brackets in the parts fiche when I was working out how the 1150's have them mounted, but I don't think it will help all that much as I'd need to modify it a fair amount. Being an imported 84 frame, this has different cooler mounting spots to the earlier Kats. For instance there are no mounting spots on the frame down tubes at all, just two up the top, then the two for the plastic fake cooler, and then two in the centre of the cross tube where the horn is currently mounted.
I do have the plastic one, but won't be mounting it up again as this cooler will take up most of that space.
