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1984 Suzuki gs1100 shifting problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter crpowell08
  • Start date Start date
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crpowell08

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I have a 1984 gs1100 when I shift the lever does not go back to the resting position is that a spring or what else can cause this I would like to start with the easiest to try then go from there. I can shift though all the gears I just have to move the shifter a little and then shift some one told me it might just need a oil change after sitting out all winter
 
There is a spring that returns the shifter back to center under the clutch basket. All you need to do to replace it is pull the clutch basket and pull out the shifter shaft. This is held on by a clip. Of course you'll also have to remove the counter sprocket cover.
 
Do you know anywhere I can get a step by step instructions to do this I am new to bikes and not even sure what a clutch basket is.
 
A manual will.
It has pics and everything.
Is your bike a shafty or chain drive?
 
Sorry, I was thinking 83 Canadian 1100. I didn't even look at the picture. What 1100 was made in 84?! Is that a stripped dresser? Ray.
 
and it's only a 1100 ray I don't know if the 1150 looks different not trying to be smart just thought you might of thought I said 1150
 
Sorry for multi post here but I forgot to ask what I was going to ask...lol Okay does the engine and stuff have to come out to remove the clutch basket and other stuff.
 
Do a search for basscliff. He has a website with manuals you can download and print off.
This is where I'd start. Read about the motor and then get busy.
We'll be ready to help you after that.
 
NO, the engine does NOT have to come out to remove the clutch basket. Only Kawasaki was stupid enough to design an engine that you had the split the cases to remove the clutch basket! Ray.
 
I have looked everywhere for a service manual for a 84 gs 1100 and can't find one everything I see I look at the pics and there chain driven any ideals what might have the same procedure for doing this
 
Can you tell me is this a clutch cover or something else

CLUTCH.jpg
 
Weather you have a 4 valve GS 750,8501100,1100 or a 16 valve GS1100/1150 the clutches are very similar For your bike It sounds like you have a 1100 shaft drive. Would probably be refered to a GS1100GK at least in the states. Look on Cliff's web site for a manual
 
When sitting on the bike, its under right leg. Big and flat with a lever on the top. If it has a lever on top, the cable needs to be detached, by removing the cotter pin on the end. If the bike is rolled up on 2 by lumber, and resting on the side stand, the oil doesn't need to be drained, otherwise drain oil from plug under engine.

When removing the cover, take a piece of cardboard and draw the cover and place the bolts in their proper place, as they are different lengths. One at 3:00 oclock has a rubber washer on it. Once the cover is off, 6 10mm bolts will need to be removed. Loosening sequentially or in a criss cross fashion. Springs and spacers are loaded behind the bolts. Once all those are out, the inner clutch hub can be removed. Then all the clutch plates will be visible. These need to be kept in order, fiber, steel, fiber, steel when removed. The last can stay, as it's held in with piano wire.

The large nut in the center of the clutch hub has a lock washer that needs to be bent down with a flat head screwdriver in order to remove the nut. The hard part is finding a way to hold the basket while removing the nut. Maybe you'll get lucky and the nut will be loose.

I think the nut is 22mm. Impact sockets are cheapest. Once that is off, a large spacer with two 6mm holes in the middle of the basket, next to the shaft needs to come off. You can use two of the longer clutch cover bolts to thread in the spacer. Pull the spacer out, while holding the basket and be careful not to damage the roller bearing around the spacer. A little tilt while removing the basket will allow it to clear the engine cases.

Once the basket is out, you'll see a forked spring at the bottom left hand corner. The shaft coming out of the spring goes through to the shift lever on the other side of the engine, under the cover Chef mentioned. Good luck with wrenching and tell us how it goes.

An aside, there is another small spring only accessible through the oil pan cover which is under the engine. It hooks to the case webbing and the shift drum. My friend broke his and we only discovered it after splitting the entire engine apart. His 750ES stopped shifting altogether and this $2 spring was the only culprit.
 
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