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'76-79 GS750 factory jet size variations in relation to engine mods

No. 1/2 is a starting point on the pilot fuel screw. Then adjust the air screws for highest idle. Count the turns on the air screws. If they are less than two turns out at highest idle, tweak the pilot fuel screw out ever so slightly and adjust the air screws for highest idle again. You may end up doing this two or three times until you start to get the highest idle with the air screws at about two turns out. Then take the bike for a ride in slow traffic and see if you are smooth in the 1,500-3,000 range. If it stutters a bit and comes on fine when you roll the throttle a bit, it may be a tad rich on the pilot fuel screws. Here is the rub.The pilot fuel screws don't seem to work as you would think. If you turn them in now just a bit leaner, your stutter will probably get worse and have you scratching your head. Tweak it out a bit more. This also moves the air adjust for highest idle out a bit more. From what I can tell the pilot fuel needles move the air adjust range up and down the scale. When you find the point where they are both happy because they both work together, you will zero into where your bike needs to be set. My carburetors were virgin, with the factory paint on the screws and there was no damage to the pilot fuel needles that so many people seem to have. Your settings are going to be different than mine, but considering your motor modifications, it's probably a closer starting point than any of the 750 information.
 
Great, thanks a lot fellas. I was always uncertain how you were actually supposed to adjust then, since the factory service manual does not cover that, nor does Clymer's. Very good to know.
 
Just thinking about your motor mods, you could just use a Dynojet 3304 stage three jet kit. You essentially have a 1000. It sure makes things easier with their needle taper.
 
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