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'79 GS1000E or project daily rider from junk

  • Thread starter Thread starter 7981GS
  • Start date Start date
7

7981GS

Guest
This one is not going to take much time because I really am not too interested in making it look pretty.
I just want to make another daily rider that happens to be a chain driven 1000.
Plenty of missing/ broken parts to begin with as this was picked up as a basket case/parts bike.

Started with this:

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I spent a bit of time on improving the front end today.
Starting with the leaking forks. and leaking '79 calipers.
Flushed out and re-sealed the forks. Used some "Old School" Suzuki mod for the springs.
Replaced the stock mushy springs with '79 1000L model springs minus the spacer.
The spring without the spacer is about 1.5" longer.

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The calipers got replaced with some '82 units, slotted rotors and new pads.
The dented fender, was replaced with a better one from the same '79 1000L.
Newer Dunlop Sport Elite replaced the dry rotted Cheng Shing.

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Daniel
 
Not too much progress today.
I worked on the rear suspension and brakes.
She got the aluminum swing arm and adjustable shocks from an '83 GS1100ED,
a newer 130/80-17 rear tire and rim also some new brake pads and slotted rotor.

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Daniel
 
Not a lot of interest in a cheap build thread eh?

Strange stuff has been happening on GSR lately...
for a Suzuki Motorcycle Site, there seems to be MORE interest in:

Gays/Lesbians,
Sex toys,
Birthday's,
Political BS,
Bobber's/Rat bikes,
Guitar's,
Disease ridden children,
Harley-Davidson's,
Triumph's,
Kawasaki's,
BMW's

What in the world has happened? :confused: :rolleyes:
 
OoOoOo cheap builds. I like those. :cool:

I love what you did to Goldy, I think this one could be just as interesting. Kinda going for the frankenbike idea with parts coming in from all over? That aluminum swinger is pretty cool. Sometimes I wish i had a chain drive instead of the shafty so I could mount up some modern rubber... But then I remember how annoying my buddies chain noise is and think nah!

Regardless I wouldn't worry to much about people being more interested in scandals than sense.

Keep on building your bike, I'm looking forward to where this one can go.
 
Not a lot of interest in a cheap build thread eh?

Strange stuff has been happening on GSR lately...
for a Suzuki Motorcycle Site, there seems to be MORE interest in:

Gays/Lesbians,
Sex toys,
Birthday's,
Political BS,
Bobber's/Rat bikes,
Guitar's,
Disease ridden children,
Harley-Davidson's,
Triumph's,
Kawasaki's,
BMW's

What in the world has happened? :confused: :rolleyes:

Now lets not go there. I'm subscribed. I just don't have much to say at the moment.

cg
 
Now lets not go there. I'm subscribed. I just don't have much to say at the moment.

cg

+1, but I do get your point... you can tag along on my 450 thread too if you want, it's generally about my 450 :D

I looked at this thread with interest, but just had nothing to add as yet...
 
Not a lot of interest in a cheap build thread eh?
What makes you think that? don't you think some people are setting on the side lines watching your skilz?

as for myself, I've been trying figure out why you would put longer 'L' springs in the front forks? whats the purpose? are the 'L' springs made from a larger diameter wire and that's the reason to use them? or, is it your plan to cut them down to set proper sag?
 
I can relate very well to cheap, low budget builds so I'm in.
 
Rusty, the purpose of substituting L springs for the stock springs on E forks
is a cheap equivalent to installing Progressive Suspension Springs.
It works GREAT! ;)

Wiring repairs:

Started with this burned up/melted mess from the old rectifier.
Took a good rectifier off of a parts bike to replace it.

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Looking a little better.

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Neatened up and tied together.

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Wraped up in the factory cover and tied to the battery box securely.

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Just "because", I changed the intake manifold O-rings that were actually in nice enough condition to use as spares.
Strangely enough, only two of the screws required more than a number 4 Phillips screwdriver to extract. :confused:
The ports look absolutely clean! I couldn't get the camera to capture just how clean.

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Daniel
 
What makes you think that? don't you think some people are setting on the side lines watching your skilz?

as for myself, I've been trying figure out why you would put longer 'L' springs in the front forks? whats the purpose? are the 'L' springs made from a larger diameter wire and that's the reason to use them? or, is it your plan to cut them down to set proper sag?

That one kinda cought my eye too. I thought the purpose in upgrading the springs was to lessen the rate, not the other way around.
Watching to see replies..
 
I guess that I did not explain the spring swap clearly.
You replace the stock spring and SPACER with the L springs and NO SPACER.
Except for a flat washer or two and the stock washer/spring retainer.
It INCREASES the spring preload and reduces front end dive.
Look at the picture closely and you can almost see that the L springs are 1.5" longer than the stock spring and spacer.

Daniel


Now, back to work on the bike...
 
I guess that I did not explain the spring swap clearly.
You replace the stock spring and SPACER with the L springs and NO SPACER.
Except for a flat washer or two and the stock washer/spring retainer.
It INCREASES the spring preload and reduces front end dive.
Look at the picture closely and you can almost see that the L springs are 1.5" longer than the stock spring and spacer..

Correct me if I'm wrong but isnt that is the complete opposite of what you want the spring to do?
I think you're better off with the spacer and a shorter more stiff spring, right?
 
I did this years ago on my 1000. The L spring is progressively wound and when crammed into the E fork it provides good ride quality and small bump absorbtion. It stiffens up quicker as the light windings collaps quickly and the stiffer spring rate takes over. It raises the ride hight in front just slightly and increases total wheel travel. It worked out quite well on my 1000 for all around riding performance and comfort. the wheel stayed planted yet compliant in the bumps. We'll see how it works here for Daniel.
 
After wasting hours trying to polish some turds (the dented/bondoed fuel tank from a member, tail piece and side covers from Ebay),
it was time to find a set of carbs for this junker.
The most likely candidate was a set off of one of my '79 1000L's.
Along with the throttle cables and throttle assembly as this bike had one cable only when I got it.
Here is the starting point...

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After a quick cleaning in the parts washer and scrubbing the bowls...

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Of three possible candidates for an air-box, I picked the one with the best looking chrome covers and softest air-box boots.
Washed it in soap and water, rinsed and treated it with Turtle Wax equivalent of Armor All.
This is where selling my new pod filters to a member comes back to kick my azz. :(
It seems that the ONLY WAY to get the carbs to go in involves the simple task of:
removing ALL engine mounting bolts AND the entire exhaust system and moving the horns.
"Isn't that special."

With the engine leaning forward against the front frame rails, there is just enough room for them to go in.

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Forgot to add that it helps to replace the former owner's WRONG engine mounting bolts, exhaust bots and spacers when
putting it back together...

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Daniel
 
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Cheap builds are just as interesting to watch! I'll certainly be following.
 
Man gettin' those carbs in looks like a royal PITA!!! And here I was avoiding mine because I thought the 450 was too difficult (and it doesn't suit what I want)... :rolleyes:
 
I guess that I did not explain the spring swap clearly.
You replace the stock spring and SPACER with the L springs and NO SPACER.
You didn't have to, the picture did.

unless there's a difference in the spring's rates, I don't understand the need to use the 'L' springs in place of the stock ones. with the exception of the length of travel before coil bind, a PVC spacer used with the stock springs would work just as well.
 
You got to watch your view count.I've been watching this to.Was going to do something similar but my 78 builds gone a different way.

Good point Greg. All the activity died off in my rebuild thread lately (not that I have a lot to post right now) but my views have steadily increased... over 18800 now :eek:
 
Again, ENTIRELY TOO MUCH TIME AND EFFORT to get the boots from the air-box to cooperate!
I had to pull the carbs, pull the air-box and remove the no longer available boots. :(
Between 3 sets of boots from 3 air-boxes,
I got the best set and boiled the darn things to get them anywhere near soft and cooperative.
What a complete PITA!!!
I ended up mounting the carbs to the intakes and then mounting the boots to the carbs, then tilting the engine back into the air-box.
Did I mention that all of this is a complete PITA??? :rolleyes:

Sanded on the turd of a fuel tank and got a little more of the dents/scratches blended.

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Almost together after all of the HOURS of effort.
Did I forget to mention this is a PITA??? :mad:

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Even the stock air filter housing did not want to cooperate!
But, one of them had a K & N filter in it. ;)

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I'll probable polish some more turds tomorrow and paint them again.
Might even get the exhaust back on and finish with the engine mounts.


Daniel
 
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