81 GS 750L Bobbed

[Weeksz]

Speedometer Update

Speedometer Update

So after my accident I destroyed my tach and did some pretty good damage to my cluster in general. The speedo was going out before I wrecked also. My question is, does anyone know where a quality aftermarket replacement gauge is available at? I've seen a nice simple on on Dimecitycycles that was just a speedo with all the indicator lights on it(oil, blinker, high beam, neutral) all in LED and looked great; although they are sold out. I wouldnt mind going down to a single gauge; weather it be just a tach or just a speedo.

Anyone know of some good sources/projects that people have done where the clusters were replaced with something aftermarket? I know that most of you like to retain the stock look of your bikes-which i totally respect- but I'm looking some more modern looking features on my classic bike.

thanks a lot guys!

 

[GateKeeper]

have a look here http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=186439&highlight=koso+gauges

it will give you some ideas....

.

 

[Rockgs1000]

I went with a Koso digital gauge. Has Speedo,tech,fuel level, and all indicator lights in a small package

 

[Weeksz]

Carb Issues

Carb Issues

So i need some advice and guidance, any help will be very appreciated! So i've decided to take the winter and pull the motor and fix the oil seeping/burning issue that I have. Also, the #2 carb has been getting stuck and causing my bike to flood out so i decided to dip and restore them... that is the issue that I am in the process of currently.

The former owner of this bike must have cleaned the carbs at some point, because he managed to ruin 90% of the hardware inside and outside the carb bodies. about 3 jets seem they should be replaced. with one being unable to remove and one pilot screw also stuck. I managed to get all the rest of the hardware out thankfully.

The bike ran pretty well other than the #2 carb issue. After looking inside I'm very surprised, especially fitted with pod filters.

First off the Pilot screw #2

pilot screw by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

What would be the best method for removing this. I cant get any bite on it with a flathead-its toast.

Next is the Pilot Jet #3


pilot jet by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

The head of this thing looks like it was put into a blender. I've tried every size flathead and even bought two more to hopefully be able to get some torque on it but no luck. heat and pb blaster with no luck either. I dont want to damage it anymore than it already is-if in fact that is possible. Seems like this one will be pretty tough because of the small opening. Thoughts?

and finally these Float seats and float pin #2.


float needle by Weeksteeze, on Flickr
This float pin has a small indent on it where it seems like it was forced out previously or something... They mention in the tutorial that if any of the tapered end has a ridge then it should be replaced. Does this go for the tapered end on this side? It is possible that the float couuld get caught on this?

then the float seats.... I cannot get these things out. I've watched videos online and it seems they just pop right out with needle nose pliers. Well I dont want to damage them but they will NOT budge. I've tried pretty hard and have began to mark the sides of them. I dont want to conttinue until i solve this but I've tried needle nose pliers. Light grip with vice grips and tried screwdriver to put leverage under it where the indent is scored around the sides. No luck. Should it be this tough to remove?

Thanks very much for any help.

 

[Weeksz]

So more fun as I get further into the rebuild.

Ordered a set of carbs from Witttom(thanks) yesterday so I decided to start and tackle the top end. One of the Cylinder head bolts had been broken off with only about 1/8 of an inch exposed once the head is off. Then I look inside the cam reservoir area and there is a chunk of aluminum from the thread of the same bolt that has sheered off into and landed beneath the cam!... hard to explain with out a picture but its part of the threaded sleeve that the bold goes into-you can see the sheered bolt inside.... I Will post pictures later but It doesn't look like it will really cause any issues but I'm not sure.

My Exhaust cam is also scored... well I wouldn't say scored because you cant catch a fingernail on the rubbed area but the finish has defiantly had some friction on it.

So after removing the cam tensioner and setting I get my 10 mil ratchet out and begin to remove the cam journal bolts. They are pretty much all snapping! just about 4-5 threads down!!! so I did some research and my only guess is that when the previous owner did the work, he over torqued these bolts and weakened them, which in turn caused the excessive wear on my cam. And when Now i am trying to remove them and they just snap at the stretch area before the head threads. I'm no professional but is this a good guess??? They aren't oxidized at all and very lubricated with oil. I've stopped after I broke four so if you have other ideas let me know.

I'm going to get a center punch and an extractor kit and have some fun here in the next week.

 

[Weeksz]

 

[Weeksz]

So this is how a majority of the ones I got out look like.

by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

The rest look like this
by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

Also Here is the chunk that I found just laying next to my valve


by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

Whats your thoughts on this?? More product of over-torquing??

Untitled by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

I got some cleaning done, leaking gaskets and living on a dirt road do not mix. Thankfully all my cylinder sleeves are smooth and not scored like I had previous thought possible. Might just to a minor DIY hone but they are very smooth for the most part.

 

[Weeksz]

Thanks for the advice everyone!!!!!

Whats up with this scoring on the inside of this piston? Normal wear??

Untitled by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

My handy valve tool.


by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

 

[tkent02]

Thanks for the advice everyone!!!!!

Whats up with this scoring on the inside of this piston? Normal wear??

Untitled by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

My handy valve tool.


by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

There shouldn't be any wear inside the piston, and I don't see any. What exactly are you talking about? Also what are you seeing as over torqued on the picture of the whole crankcase? Again, don't see anything, unless you mean the broken off studs..

Nice looking red and black gas tank, I like the red triple clamp. got any pics of the whole bike?

 

[Spiff]

Maybe little to late but about your gauges but, i have dimecitycycles gauges on my bike and I love them!

 

[Weeksz]

Inside the piston boss where the wrist pin slides. lookes like waves with a small fracture.

Untitled by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

And when I say over torqued. i'm talking about how this chunk of aluminum ended up inside my valves. do you see the large threaded piece of metal that is missing from the side of the head bolt-sleeve? I'm just wondering if this is something that will give me problems down the road. I'd no professional and when I see damage on or wear to the internals I'm not sure what is supposed to raise a red flag ect.

Untitled by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

 

[Weeksz]

That isnt my tank. thats RockGS1000's btw.

Maybe little to late but about your gauges but, i have dimecitycycles gauges on my bike and I love them!

I still havent gotten a set so I'll keep these in mind. I was looking into them back when I was really trying to get some but its probably going to be further down the road now. I'll keep it in mind thanks!

 

[tkent02]

I think the piston is fine, normal casting make it look like that. And I think it was overtorqued probably a few times to break the bolt, to break the casting took some serious torque..

 

[SocialAnomaly99]

Maybe little to late but about your gauges but, i have dimecitycycles gauges on my bike and I love them!

Just wanted to say that I also had the Dime City gauges and loved them... Until both the speedo and tach failed. The speedo needle started to jump around and eventually broke at only 350-ish miles. Soon after, my tach needle simply broke off... I then had to fight tooth and nail with the returns dpt, and even Herm (the owner of dime city himself) in order to get the gauges returned. Long story short, there was some poor communication, but everything worked out in the end. Just don't buy those gauges...

 

[Steve]

First off the Pilot screw #2

pilot screw by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

What would be the best method for removing this. I cant get any bite on it with a flathead-its toast.

Your best bet there is to use a Dremel tool with a large cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the entire tower and cut a new slot in the end of the screw.
When you are done, they will look like this:

Next is the Pilot Jet #3


pilot jet by Weeksteeze, on Flickr

The head of this thing looks like it was put into a blender. I've tried every size flathead and even bought two more to hopefully be able to get some torque on it but no luck. heat and pb blaster with no luck either. I dont want to damage it anymore than it already is-if in fact that is possible. Seems like this one will be pretty tough because of the small opening. Thoughts?

What did you use for "heat"? A propane torch works very well.

If that does not work, use some left-handed drill bits and a slow speed on the drill. At slow speeds, the drill will tend to 'bite', which just might drag the jet out with it. Obviously, you will need new jets. Soak it with penetrating oil first, either way you go.

and finally these Float seats and float pin #2.


float needle by Weeksteeze, on Flickr
This float pin has a small indent on it where it seems like it was forced out previously or something... They mention in the tutorial that if any of the tapered end has a ridge then it should be replaced. Does this go for the tapered end on this side? It is possible that the float couuld get caught on this?

The "tapered end" is hidden between your thumb and finger. That little indent will not affect operation at all.

then the float seats.... I cannot get these things out. I've watched videos online and it seems they just pop right out with needle nose pliers. Well I dont want to damage them but they will NOT budge. I've tried pretty hard and have began to mark the sides of them. I dont want to conttinue until i solve this but I've tried needle nose pliers. Light grip with vice grips and tried screwdriver to put leverage under it where the indent is scored around the sides. No luck. Should it be this tough to remove?

Yes, sometimes they are very tough to remove. Soak with penetrating oil first. Grab with needle-nose pliers, twist and pull, then THROW THEM AWAY. Get new ones, along with new needles, you will not have to worry about them for another 30 years. I get mine from =custom&filters[year]=1981]Parts-n-More. They are not OEM, but I have never had any problems with them.

.

 

[Guest]

Hey, a GSXR1100 head goes right on to fix the broken head. And, where are the mufflers??
G

 

[JTGS850GL]

All I can say is WOW!!! That poor engine has been through a lot of abuse. Good luck with the restore.

I'm assuming that you did remove the retaining screw and plate before you attempted to remove the float seats. If so, then I'd do as Steve recommended and just grab that sucker with some pliers and twist as you pull. Then get some new ones.

 

[Weeksz]

Your best bet there is to use a Dremel tool with a large cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the entire tower and cut a new slot in the end of the screw.
When you are done, they will look like this:

.

That is a good idea as I hadnt thought of that before. I ordered some new carbs that just arrived today so hopefully they will all play nice.

What did you use for "heat"? A propane torch works very well.


If that does not work, use some left-handed drill bits and a slow speed on the drill. At slow speeds, the drill will tend to 'bite', which just might drag the jet out with it. Obviously, you will need new jets. Soak it with penetrating oil first, either way you go.

yes I used a propane torch but I think the threads are damaged and making the removal much harder especially on an already stripped screw head. I was able to screw it further in then back it out only to a certain point where it would get stuck. The must have been some damage to the threads from a screwdriver having so much use in there.

The "tapered end" is hidden between your thumb and finger. That little indent will not affect operation at all.


Yes, sometimes they are very tough to remove. Soak with penetrating oil first. Grab with needle-nose pliers, twist and pull, then THROW THEM AWAY. Get new ones, along with new needles, you will not have to worry about them for another 30 years. I get mine from =custom&filters[year]=1981]Parts-n-More. They are not OEM, but I have never had any problems with them.

.

Thanks for the advice. I did get them to come out with some force and new seats will indeed be on order. I just didnt know if these were some of the good oem brass parts that you want to keep.

All I can say is WOW!!! That poor engine has been through a lot of abuse. Good luck with the restore.

I'm assuming that you did remove the retaining screw and plate before you attempted to remove the float seats. If so, then I'd do as Steve recommended and just grab that sucker with some pliers and twist as you pull. Then get some new ones..

Yeah she needs some serious tlc but she'll be back here soon, thank you. Yes I did remove that plate and screw (i know it remains in the photo).

 

[Weeksz]

What are the little jets that sit on top of the crank case, one on each side? At the base of the top end next to the studs there are little brass-what i assume to be-oil jets. Do these get seated all the way down? And should they be adjusted/cleaned? Unlike the rest of the brass parts on the bike, it appears these hadn't been touched by the previous owner.

Thanks

 

[Weeksz]

Should piston rings be replaced with doing a top end? The cylinder bore is smooth and they dont look damaged or "used" much. I'd rather not spend the money on 4 new oem sets for $100. But I will if that is a must.

Thanks