82 GS1100E Mr Turbo Rebuild

[oldGSfan]

I'm down to a handful of things on my to-do list.

- Forks are way too mushy, they are Progressives. I put in a 1.5" spacer, probably temporarily, will see how it feels. I will likely get a set of Sonics, need to figure out the right rate for my 215 lbs.
- The seat is being sewed up, found an upholstery place that agreed to stitch a patch into the back of it, hope it comes out OK. Then I'll either have him re-staple it or do myself, seems like a standard heavy duty staple gun will work if I can find the short staples.
- EBC brake pads on order. I had what I think were new take-off 'Tokico' ones that I put on for temp purposes, not gonna trust 38 year old pads.
- Tire swap (in progress) to the 100/90-18 front.
- Get a proper rivet type master link, last one I bought said rivet but wasn't and I had to use temporarily.

Oh I treated it to new original grips, they are quite nice if a bit pricey. The throttle comes with the plastic throttle which has two holes for push/pull, which is great. The housing I have is not original, but the only thing really different is the orange rather than red on/off switch. I turned the brake caliper cap upside down as it mounts the mirror and I'm using Napoleon bar-ends.

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[oldGSfan]

I got lucky again today, $150 for a Norton N15CS (like P11) that has new painted gas and oil tank what appears to be all the parts plus spares. I have to stop looking at craigslist, filling up my garage to the brim!

 

[steve murdoch]

You better not stop surfing if you keep finding deals like that. Wow.
That twin screw oil tank is worth more than your entry point. A '67?

 

[oldGSfan]

Hey Steve - yeah, hard to resist a deal. My son keeps finding them. It's a '66. He also found me the two free Goldwings with a sidecar that I sold for $1300.

You better not stop surfing if you keep finding deals like that. Wow.
That twin screw oil tank is worth more than your entry point. A '67?

 

[oldGSfan]

OK I'm sidetracking my own build thread but WTH. This is the Norton. I am not sure what instrument housing it is in the last picture, but not a N15CS. May make a good Halloween mask.

 

[Rob S.]

For someone with your skills, that's practically turnkey! But I'm not familiar with Norton nomenclature. Is that an 850 Commando, or too early for that?

Don't think you can distract us with that beautiful Norton paint. We're still waiting to see and HEAR Mr. Turbo.

 

[oldGSfan]

Still waiting on the tire, dang that shop, I shoulda known, too busy and slow turnaround.

That engine is from the early 60's 750cc Atlas, and later used in the Commando. The N15CS was a bastard child, it's a hybrid of a Matchless frame and Norton motor. No 'featherbed' for this one. Seems to be more appreciated now than way back when. They made about 2500 of them from 6. Good article here:

https://www.bike-urious.com/1967-norton-n15cs/

I've seen a few P11's at shows over the years, which IMO looks a bit better with a different and more exposed frame. Same tank and engine. This was a hybrid with a Matchless, same bike as the G15CS.

For someone with your skills, that's practically turnkey! But I'm not familiar with Norton nomenclature. Is that an 850 Commando, or too early for that?

Don't think you can distract us with that beautiful Norton paint. We're still waiting to see and HEAR Mr. Turbo.

 

[Rob S.]

This was my first introduction to Norton, in the first Cycle World I ever bought:


I was 14, and something about the handlebars (and the 'heated' backrest) caught my eye. The November, 1971 issue had a cover article about the Yamaha 650 twin, but also contained pre road test articles about the new Kaw 750 triple and the 1000cc Sportster. Glad I still have it.

 

[oldGSfan]

Had a try at going for a first ride but no joy. I think I've got some grounding issues to look at, and possibly something is draining my battery too. The starter tried its best but didn't work long enough to start the bike. Eventually I just got 'click'. I think I flooded it with a couple squirts of the throttle. Last frustrating thing is the prime position on my brand new Suzuki petcock ($$$) doesn't work. I took off the gas tank to hoist the bike by the frame to fit the front wheel and maybe I pulled a wire off the coil as well, so it'll be a bit of a session in the morning to set things right. I don't think the carb bowl would evaporate its fuel in a week but it would be good to just prime it, sheesh. I used a hand vacuum pump again to prime it (if needed), as I don't feel like diving into the petcock issue just yet.

 

[oldGSfan]

Charged the battery (bought a Yuasa in May '20) back to full voltage - measured 12.66, and tried a quick test this morning on the button - click only. Tested ground to the solenoid body and it's OK. When engaged, I got full voltage at the solenoid's output to starter terminal while the start button was pressed. Next I bridged the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver and the starter turned. Tried by the button again, and it now works. I expect further problems and wonder if the solenoid is on the way out.

The battery seems OK but in the few months I had it has lost a charge on its own, just sitting and wired up on the bike . I tested for a drain on it and found none, may try again. Hope it's OK because it's an Amazon purchase and I'm past the return window of 60 days - Yuasa warranty is 12 months but says to contact seller, and there's no option on Amazon to do that. Lesson learned.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I'd look for a corroded/bad connection where the g/y solenoid signal wire connects to the harness, and clean/verify good contact inside the start button/run switch housing/RH switch assembly. I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know. I'm certain I've read that the solenoid can be replaced with a pretty generic one of similar size from the local Tractor Supply. It's nothing special.

 

[oldGSfan]

Yep Rich, went through and verified connections, cleaned and used dielectric grease, etc. After that still the issue so I got a generic 3 pole solenoid from O'Reilly and it's working. Will be out for a ride soon, it's finally time!

Edit: First ride was great, it really is sweet on the road, the suspension and brakes did their thing - very comfortable and set up pretty well. The motor pulled everywhere and is docile like stock at lower RPM, idles well. Gearbox is notchy, as I remember this may be improper linkage adjustment perhaps. I dipped into the turbo only 3 or 4 times in 3rd and it was very strong, I didn't push it too far as the rest of the bike is so fresh. But I have leaks to fix, ugh, including head gasket and/or some seal in upper end. The gear indicator isn't working, the temp maxed at 215 or so, it's very hot here today. All in all I am really happy with how it rides, but should have torn the motor down for gaskets when it was out. Oh well, I can deal with that.

I'd look for a corroded/bad connection where the g/y solenoid signal wire connects to the harness, and clean/verify good contact inside the start button/run switch housing/RH switch assembly. I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know. I'm certain I've read that the solenoid can be replaced with a pretty generic one of similar size from the local Tractor Supply. It's nothing special.

 

[Guest]

oldgsfan,

I am curious as to what supports the turbocharger when it is installed. I can't see anything that supports it, so I assume it is held up by the mid pipe connecting the header to the turbo and by the rubber coupler fastening the compressor outlet to the intake manifold.

 

[oldGSfan]

That's exactly it, just these two points.

oldgsfan,

I am curious as to what supports the turbocharger when it is installed. I can't see anything that supports it, so I assume it is held up by the mid pipe connecting the header to the turbo and by the rubber coupler fastening the compressor outlet to the intake manifold.

 

[Guest]

That's exactly it, just these two points.

Thank you. Your answers are helpful as I consider a turbo build of my own. Supporting the turbo would not be easy, as there is very little nearby on the engine/trans unit to tie to. If I do build one, I might unitize the compressor outlet and the intake manifold in order to save space and make the connection stiffer.

I am impressed by how compact your turbocharger is from compressor inlet to turbine outlet. One might think it didn't have a CHRA at all.

 

[oldGSfan]

You're welcome, I will help any way I can, it's what these forums are supposed to be about. I have a Rajay turbo manual FYI.

I also have a few spare parts, not sure if any demand for them, but have half a housing for the turbo, and a couple of carbs - an S&S Super B and the original Keihin. Both are in need of rebuilding and may be junk. After reading up I went with the Mikuni HSR. I think the Keihin (an HD carb from late 70's) is considered pretty crappy, and the S&S isn't a good street carb. Plus the butterfly is locked up on the S&S.

The tuner said he'd have put on a Keihin, I'm not sure the model, maybe FCR? He would have gone bigger than my 42 - like 52 (?) from memory. He said it would have more adjustability, 3 vs 2 jets or something Mine is the cheapest one I could have put on, he said, and didn't allow him to fine tune it. But the bike runs great and I don't have a ton of money to throw at it. I paid about $230 for it. So you should research, don't take my opinion as I'm just a garage mechanic on a budget.

Thank you. Your answers are helpful as I consider a turbo build of my own. Supporting the turbo would not be easy, as there is very little nearby on the engine/trans unit to tie to. If I do build one, I might unitize the compressor outlet and the intake manifold in order to save space and make the connection stiffer.

I am impressed by how compact your turbocharger is from compressor inlet to turbine outlet. One might think it didn't have a CHRA at all.

 

[oldGSfan]

I have a bad habit, from years of being dirt poor (thankfully no longer!) of cheaping out and then paying more. It is really a design flaw in my thinking that I need to address. Logically I know the old adage - buy good shoes 1x or cheap ones 10x. And it is true. I bought a replacement front master cylinder kit for the GS, a K&L even after reading warnings NOT to do it. And it leaked. Thankfully no painted parts other than the master cylinder got paint damage. I just ordered an OEM replacement from Partzilla. When will I ever learn?

 

[steve murdoch]

Unfortunately there is a lot of us that belong to that Club.

 

[oldGSfan]

When I took the MC apart I realized that I hadn't snapped the circlip into the right slot, it was in the outer groove that is for the rubber gator. D'oh! Normally I am really meticulous, and doubly so for brakes. Those MCs are tricky to get the circle in - no excuse, just a learning experience. Still I have ordered the OEM part. While I wait I'm doing recon on the Norton, trying to see if it is worth time and money to restore - I hate to part out a pretty rare bike. Turns out it's pretty complete. I'll get the black parts powder coated and get it on its wheels, at least. And clean up and polish the aluminum. And....

Also working on my son's future bike, '94 Yamaha XT350. Since it was an unknown quantity I disassembled the YZ250 forks that the PO put on - a nice upgrade. I always like to know what's going on in suspension and brakes. The seals are holding oil and look new and the fluid was perfectly clean, but the bump stop disintegrated on removal, so I will replace and put the right level of oil in there, and call it good. It also has a leak on the crank seal under the magneto, but it's an easy and cheap job (he says).

The Honda CB750 is getting new APE cylinder studs, as the originals are a weakness leading to what was a very oily top end. I have quality gaskets, and have lapped the valves - for a 31K bike the journals, valves/seats and overall health of the engine is really good. I painted the frame with appliance enamel and had the rest of the hard parts powder coated. It's going to be a sweet bike, just have to decide on color - son thinks the Candy Bacchus Olive is classy and less common than the Flake Sunrise Orange. Either one will be tricky for me to do myself with the decals etc. I am waiting on that decision till the rest is up to snuff.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Ahhhh, that circlip in the piston of the MC. I had a heck of a time squeezing it to fit right in the groove. My Boeing engineer friend looked at it, used the tool (in his methodical way) and popped it right in!

It should be a while before I have to rebuild that MC.

Ed

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