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'82 GS1100G Tensioner question

willie said:
.
.
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While slowly turning the engine over, clockwise, I noticed the slack in the cam chain between the sprockets would come and go. It would vary from tight as drum to extremely loose. .
.
.
Click to expand...

Good that are turning crank clockwize. ANd good that you have the bwringer tutorial. That tutorial sure contains more knolodge and wisdom than what I have (and what little I have came mostly from that, and a little from the FSM.).

Certainly sounds like tensioner not doing what it is suppose to.
But I dont have enough expereince to know what can casue the tensioner not to work.

Well, unless it was installed but not released (that screw.... is difficult to describe with words)... or maybe it was released but then locked back down (that screw, the screw should be loosend to release the spring tension, then the nut tightened while the screw is still out).

When have the tensioner out in your hand. You can go thru the proceedure, but dont really install it. Hold onto the plunger when release that screw, can feel the pressure ushing the plunger out, can let the plungergo out a little bit, but you cant push it back in, can let it out a little bit more, but cant push it back in. Has to do with the spring pushing agains that sloped end of the plunger.
 
I had the exact same idea with regard to observing the operation of the tensioner with it off and in my hand. I'm guessing that's the only way to determine if the spring loaded rod with the knob on the end is exerting enough force to keep the plunger from retracting into the housing. Stay tuned.
On the bright side, hopefully what I'm going through and detailing will help someone else on down the line. ;)
 
Thought I'd update this for anyone who's following my ordeal. The old saying that you can't see the forest because of the trees, or something to that effect comes to mind. After realizing that I could push the plunger rod in all the way without turning the knob, I turned my attention to that issue. After reinstalling the tensioner for the 5th(?) time and releasing the threaded bolt I heard the plunger slide in and make contact, hopefully, with the chain. However, the odd thing was that the knob didn't move in the least. In fact, I had to push the knob towards the body in order for it to contact the plunger. The spring that's wrapped around the knob's shaft was pushing the knob away from the body instead of drawing it close. Wtf! I ended up tightening the spring a couple of wraps. Doing so resulted in the knob turning clockwise and making contact with the plunger rod. That is when I ran out of time. :(. However, I'm finally optimistic about how this is going to turn out. To be contd.
 
This thread sounds like a Stevie Ray Vaughn song... "Willie the link, and his cam chain tensioner"🎶 lol, just joking around. 🌞
 
willie said:
I turned my attention to that issue. After reinstalling the tensioner for the 5th(?) time and releasing the threaded bolt I heard the plunger slide in and make contact, hopefully, with the chain.
Click to expand...

Hopefully not. That?s not how it works. The plunger of the tensioner contacts the cam rear chain guide#11 below (actually it?s called a cam chain tensioner). It?s sort of a long, curved black plastic piece that?s sort of hinged down inside the engine case. That?s what makes contact with the chain.

MmOohpbh.jpg
 
Understood and what I what I should have written. I realize that the plunger itself doesn't make contact with the chain and I appreciate you taking me to task on this matter in case anyone else may've taken my words literally. Thanks Rich.
 
To anyone following this thread, I thought I'd write the final chapter, I hope.
After adding 2 more turns to the spring preload, the tensioner works great now. No more slack when turning the crank by hand.
The End
PS
Thanks to those who helped and happy new year to all.
 
willie said:
. . . . .
After adding 2 more turns to the spring preload, the tensioner works great now. . . .
. . .
Click to expand...

Two MORE turns...? or it needed some turns instead of none? Or was it having the turns in the proper direction that made the big difference.....?

Anyway, you tested it and it wasnt doing what it was suppose to, but adding two more turns, then it did what it was suppose to.
Good that you solved it.
 
Last edited:
To answer your questions.....my guess is that it had been taken apart at some time and reassembled without preloading the spring at all. So, that said, I guess it needed some turns instead of none. Bottom line is that it maintains pressure on the tensioner plunger.
Fwiw, I turned the crank several rotations while watching for the slack I had seen previously. Thankfully, there wasn't any. And, the marks on the cams lined up where they were supposed to be. Success!
I then turned my attention to disassembling the carbs. This was after soaking all the jets with penetrant for a few days. You can imagine my disappointment when I discovered that the slot on one of the idle mixture jets was so messed up that I'm unable to remove it. Now, I have to find another carb. :(
 
willie said:
To anyone following this thread, I thought I'd write the final chapter, I hope.
After adding 2 more turns to the spring preload, the tensioner works great now. No more slack when turning the crank by hand.
The End
PS
Thanks to those who helped and happy new year to all.
Click to expand...


And this is what makes this forum so good. Lots of experienced gurus who are happy to help a fellow solve his problems
 
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