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83 GS750E rebuild thread.

  • Thread starter Thread starter piester
  • Start date Start date
As far as the anti dive goes, I'd consider putting in progressive springs. I don't think the stock springs were designed to hold these bikes without the anti dive; if its disabled the forks will bottom on hard stopping. At least thats how my old Kawi GPz 750 was....

Yer springs are prolly all softened up and need to be replaced anyway.
 
yeah thats true. i dont know if i can afford new springs at this time thow
 
Does anyone see a problem with me putting the whole front brake system from my 850 onto my 750? Its an 81 gs850g going on to an 83 gs750e. The brakes worked spectacularly well
 
Someone may tell me that I am wrong but, I believe that you would have to also
change the triple clamp from the 850 also as the fork tubes are larger. (?)

Eric
 
Im not gonna use the fork tubes. Just the calipers. Pads. Lines. Master cyl. And i think thats it. And as far as stopping the 850 i dont think im gonna ride her anymore. Way too much work. Needs an airbox. Exhaust. Tires. I think i sold the carbs. And so on haha
 
If you put a spacer into the tube above the stock spring you don't have to run air, I understand you need a spacer above the progressive as well. Try the stock spring with say a 1.5-2" spacer( I like the forks a little stiff) with a 15 or 20w fork oil. If you bleed out the front lines well, your brakes should improve in feel. Otherwise you can just disconnect the lines to the dive units and put a cap on them like some others have done so that the forks keep the stock look. When I changed the fork oil I rebuilt the dive units they were gunky and then worked freely.
 
Smokinapankake said:
I don't think the stock springs were designed to hold these bikes without the anti dive; if its disabled the forks will bottom on hard stopping.
Click to expand...
Please don't kid yourself here.
Anti-dive mechanisms don't hold up the front of the bike.
They don't replace proper springs.
They aren't magic.
Your bike will still drop the front when the brakes are applied, it just won't do it so quickly.



Clone said:
If you put a spacer into the tube above the stock spring you don't have to run air, I understand you need a spacer above the progressive as well. Try the stock spring with say a 1.5-2" spacer( I like the forks a little stiff) with a 15 or 20w fork oil.
Click to expand...
Yes, you will likely need a preload spacer with just about any springs you use. The way to determine the size is to measure the 'sag' of the bike. You will need a helper and a tape measure. Put the bike on the centerstand so the forks are fully extended. Measure from the bottom of the triple tree to the fender (or two points along the fork tube) and record it. Take the bike off the stand, sit on it, put as much of your weight on it, so it settles into the position it will be in while riding. Have your helper measure the same place. Record it and subtract the two readings. Your target is to have the bike 'sag' no more than 20-25% of the available travel. Most of our bikes have about 6", so you are shooting for 1 to 1.5" of 'sag'. If you have more than that, you will need to add at least that much to the existing spacer.

Some will also recommend cutting some of the tightly-wound coils from the fork springs and adding a spacer to match that length. Shortening the springs will raise the rate a bit, which will help, too.

About fork oil viscosity: I have read tuning tips from racers who agree that you should use the lightest oil that will do the job. The purpose of the oil is to dampen the movement of the fork. Thicker oil will just slow down the movement. If you choose oil that is too thick for your application based on somebody's say-so, you may find an uncomfortable ride because every little ripple just gets passed right up the forks, instead of getting soaked up by the springs. Even with my heavy bike and my ... ahem ... modestly increased gravitational attraction, I use 10w oil in my forks. Granted, they are probably valved differently, but 10w works for me.

.
 
heres my plan so far. put her on the road. remove antidive lines but leave antidive in place until i can fix. put new front tire on. tune carbs more and more and then more. synch carbs also. maybe adjust the valves a bit better. i think they are too loose. um. maybe get my turn signals to work. oh and most importantly... ride the **** off of it.

would the springs and spacers from my 850 forks be interchangable with these?
 
ok so i worked on her a bit tonight and took her for a ride. this is what i have concluded. i need to check my valves again. they are a bit loud. i need new plug wires and caps. they ground out i believe. some cylinders will only fire when the plug caps are on a certain way. its got a dead spot when i take off, then it kicks in. i believe its lean in the midrange, i think i need to make the needle a bit richer. um. i think thats it. hows my logic sound? oh and i put my new header on with no midpipe and just put the muffler on. when its firing on all 4 it sounds amazing. also i disconnected the anti dive and bled the brakes. seem to work a bit better. kinda spongy thow.
 
Lower the clip on the needle to raise the needle. (richen)
I always go one clip richer then DJ suggests.
 
thats what i figured i would do. does my idea about the plug caps and wires sound like a good idea? my wires are removable.
 
What coils are you running?
Get some new ones. I have a couple of sets of plug wires. I'll even throw in some spark plug threaded caps for the bigger spark plug wire caps.
 
Im running the stock coils for now. I dont think i can afford new ones. I found coils with wires for 42 a piece and caps for 4 bucks a piece. But im kinda poor right now. The coils work im pretty sure. It runs on all 4 once it heats up. I guess new coils couldnt hurt thow
 
piester said:
Im running the stock coils for now. I dont think i can afford new ones. I found coils with wires for 42 a piece and caps for 4 bucks a piece. But im kinda poor right now. The coils work im pretty sure. It runs on all 4 once it heats up. I guess new coils couldnt hurt thow
Click to expand...
You said the wires are removeable so what I meant to say was to get new wires. It looked like I said coils. Sorry
 
ok cool. i can get 6 feet of plug wire for 3 bucks. and new caps are 3.95 a piece.
 
just ordered new plug wires, caps, and clutch springs, clutch was slipping a bit under wot when shifting into second. should be here in a few days. ill let you all know what kinda difference it makes
 
ok im kinda confused. i took the bike out for a spin, and the front end feels a bit twitchy as compared to the 850. is this because of the differences between the 2 bikes? the weight? or is it more likely that the fork legs are bent?
 
The 83 E model is a very nimble bike compared to many of the others in the GS line. Though of course your forks could be bent.

Check the fork oil and preload the forks as needed for your wieght and it should be ok.
 
Check both front wheel, forks, stem bearings AND rear wheel swing arm for issues. Had bad rear wheel bearings on a CB1100F. I swore it was a front end issue. Never underestimate tire size contribution to handling problems
 
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