• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

'85 GS700e restoration

  • Thread starter Thread starter soundsource
  • Start date Start date
IMG_0146.jpg


This is what I use, an old motor, flexable shaft and several wheels.

cg
 
I have a NOS cover for the other side (ignition) on the shelf for when you drop it that way ;) :D
 
Charlie G said:
This is what I use, an old motor, flexable shaft and several wheels.

cg
Click to expand...

Forget bench grinder, who needs a bench when you have a tool like that! Good work Charlie G, that's some food for thought - some thinking outside the box! Looks like it keeps them covers nice and bright too...
 
salty_monk said:
I have a NOS cover for the other side (ignition) on the shelf for when you drop it that way ;) :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer salty_monk! Hopefully I'll never have to take you up on your offer... :-\\\ Thanks for thinking (badly) of me!:D
 
I've been laid out with a bout of the 'flu for the last few days and the frustration at not being able to get on with the bike has finally made me snap - I saw the sun in the sky and putting my back to the wind I braved the afternoon air, justifying my trip outside by telling myself that fresh air would do me the world of good! Hopefully I won't regret this tomorrow...

So, the fruits of my labours today:

picture.php


Er, forgive the mess, I will definitely give the ol' garage a proper tidy up before I get started on the painting (yep, I'll be doing it in here...). Those trays on the bench are my three brake assemblies, dismantled, front and rear sprocket degreasing, a tray of bits that I have rubbed down to get the rust off today, another tray of bits that still need sanding, petcock and fuel level stopcock, top yoke and handlebars and a bunch of other stuff. Yep, I've been busy making up for lost time!

picture.php


So anyway, the front end is off, as you can probably see if you don't get too distracted by all the junk around. That just leaves the swing-arm, for which I still need to find a 21mm socket in order to get it off. Then it's just whip the centre-stand off and get sanding! :p

I had a couple of questions based on today's work: Firstly, do I need to disconnect these hoses on the shock absorber to be able to clean and paint properly? If so, is it easy to re-install fresh oil into the shock afterwards?

picture.php


and secondly, how do I get the oil out of the forks without having to replace the seals? I've seen where you get the air out and I'm assuming that's not where the oil comes out? I only want to do what's necessary here and I've already been advised that as the oil isn't seeping/leaking out of the forks that I don't need to do the seals. Thanks in advance!
 
As far as the shock you can't add oil, it is self contained. It looks to be leaking? I would consider an upgrade there if possible. You can drain the forks out the bottom there is a screw that is the drain plug.
 
Last edited:
jwhelan65 said:
As far as the shock you can't add oi,l it is self contained. It looks to be leaking? I would consider an upgrade there if possible. You can drain the forks out the bottom there is a screw that is the drain plug.
Click to expand...

Phew! Joe that was quick! In terms of the shock I started to take one of the hoses of and a bit of oil came out so I shut it back again quickly - is this not supposed to happen?

Thanks for the tip on the forks, will look out for this tomorrow! (If i'm not regretting getting back out before the flu's gone...)
 
soundsource said:
Phew! Joe that was quick! In terms of the shock I started to take one of the hoses of and a bit of oil came out so I shut it back again quickly - is this not supposed to happen?

Thanks for the tip on the forks, will look out for this tomorrow! (If i'm not regretting getting back out before the flu's gone...)
Click to expand...
The oil is from the hydraulic preload adjuster and not the shock itself if you loosened that line. No harm done if you didn't lose much. You'll just have to crank more to get more preload. I'd still watch for a deal on a new or used quality shock. Used rarely come along though. I got lucky as hell and was first to pull the trigger on a Works shock someone sold here for $150.
 
Billy Ricks said:
The oil is from the hydraulic preload adjuster and not the shock itself if you loosened that line. No harm done if you didn't lose much. You'll just have to crank more to get more preload. I'd still watch for a deal on a new or used quality shock. Used rarely come along though. I got lucky as hell and was first to pull the trigger on a Works shock someone sold here for $150.
Click to expand...

Thanks for getting back to me Billy! So is it best to clean and paint with the hoses still on the shock? I only lost a dribble of oil when I cracked it open...

Also I've heard a lot on this forum about Hagon shocks - I've seen a couple of Bandit 1200 Hagons going quite cheap, would they fit or be close to it?
 
soundsource said:
Thanks for getting back to me Billy! So is it best to clean and paint with the hoses still on the shock? I only lost a dribble of oil when I cracked it open...

Also I've heard a lot on this forum about Hagon shocks - I've seen a couple of Bandit 1200 Hagons going quite cheap, would they fit or be close to it?
Click to expand...
If you look at the Works Performance website they have a list of specs on their shocks including the lengths. If the length is the same or even slightly longer and it has eyes at both ends you should be able to make it work.
 
Billy Ricks said:
If you look at the Works Performance website they have a list of specs on their shocks including the lengths. If the length is the same or even slightly longer and it has eyes at both ends you should be able to make it work.
Click to expand...

Thanks Billy, I'll check this out! In the meantime I'll see if I can get the current shock clean and painted with both lines still attached...
 
Fork oil draining

Fork oil draining

So far so good - got the front wheel, spacers, etc off the forks and settled down to attack getting rid of the 30yr old gunk stored inside. Looks like it has been changed before as the allen bolt head is a little bit rounded off on the inside. Anyway, as I had been advised to expect, some limp nasty thin grey sludge comes out:

picture.php


picture.php


again, so far so good! Not so fast, young man, what's this I see?

picture.php


Yep, damn seal's cracked and repaired with good ol' electrical tape! Funny it didn't show when I checked the seals earlier on in the strip down. Maybe I just didn't push hard enough or long enough on the bars to produce any real amount of oil on the outside.

Anyway, sure enough, once the oil has fully drained I give the fork a pump to full extension and back... The result:

picture.php


Think I might have to change the seals after all! Oh well rather now than post-rebuild I suppose.
 
For Forks Sake!

For Forks Sake!

Decided to tear these forks down to get to the seals. Confirmed that at least the dust seals need replacing:

picture.php


And on the other side...

picture.php


Yep - most definitely. Inside the seal looked a bit nasty but thankfully not completely rusted up. I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in there then got to work with my toothbrush...

picture.php


Once it was clean, I fashioned a unique tool to get the circlip out:

picture.php


Another handy use for a coathanger!
 
Now I'm stuck! Can't find anyway to get this cap off the forks. It seems like there's either nothing holding it there but some cement, or I'm missing something huge...

picture.php


Help!
 
probably a wire clip, push down on the cap if you can and using a small thin screwdriver you might be able to remove the wire....
 
You can see the wire ring clip in the pic.
You will probably have to push down in the center slightly to relieve any pressure against the clip to remove it.

Eric
 
GateKeeper said:
probably a wire clip, push down on the cap if you can and using a small thin screwdriver you might be able to remove the wire....
Click to expand...

7981GS said:
You can see the wire ring clip in the pic.
You will probably have to push down in the center slightly to relieve any pressure against the clip to remove it.

Eric
Click to expand...

Many thanks, gentlemen! I just tried but when I have enough force on the cap to compress the spring enough to start moving the cap, my body is in such a compressed position I can't even see if what I'm doing is moving the cap or just pushing on the spring! There must be an easier way of doing this? Do I need to call a friend or does anyone know of another "special" tool that I can fashion together?
 
I can see the clip, or what could be a clip, which is good. Is there any way I can relieve the pressure on the spring maybe?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top