'85 GS700e restoration

[Charlie G]

This is what I use, an old motor, flexable shaft and several wheels.

cg

 

[jwhelan65]

I've always liked this to keep things polished after they been finished.

I tend to agree, I periodically apply mothers to keep them looking new.

 

[salty_monk]

I have a NOS cover for the other side (ignition) on the shelf for when you drop it that way

 

[soundsource]

I've always liked this to keep things polished after they been finished.

I tend to agree, I periodically apply mothers to keep them looking new.

Duly noted, thank you gentlemen!

 

[soundsource]

This is what I use, an old motor, flexable shaft and several wheels.

cg

Forget bench grinder, who needs a bench when you have a tool like that! Good work Charlie G, that's some food for thought - some thinking outside the box! Looks like it keeps them covers nice and bright too...

 

[soundsource]

I have a NOS cover for the other side (ignition) on the shelf for when you drop it that way

Thanks for the offer salty_monk! Hopefully I'll never have to take you up on your offer... :-\\\ Thanks for thinking (badly) of me!

 

[soundsource]

I've been laid out with a bout of the 'flu for the last few days and the frustration at not being able to get on with the bike has finally made me snap - I saw the sun in the sky and putting my back to the wind I braved the afternoon air, justifying my trip outside by telling myself that fresh air would do me the world of good! Hopefully I won't regret this tomorrow...

So, the fruits of my labours today:

Er, forgive the mess, I will definitely give the ol' garage a proper tidy up before I get started on the painting (yep, I'll be doing it in here...). Those trays on the bench are my three brake assemblies, dismantled, front and rear sprocket degreasing, a tray of bits that I have rubbed down to get the rust off today, another tray of bits that still need sanding, petcock and fuel level stopcock, top yoke and handlebars and a bunch of other stuff. Yep, I've been busy making up for lost time!

So anyway, the front end is off, as you can probably see if you don't get too distracted by all the junk around. That just leaves the swing-arm, for which I still need to find a 21mm socket in order to get it off. Then it's just whip the centre-stand off and get sanding!

I had a couple of questions based on today's work: Firstly, do I need to disconnect these hoses on the shock absorber to be able to clean and paint properly? If so, is it easy to re-install fresh oil into the shock afterwards?

and secondly, how do I get the oil out of the forks without having to replace the seals? I've seen where you get the air out and I'm assuming that's not where the oil comes out? I only want to do what's necessary here and I've already been advised that as the oil isn't seeping/leaking out of the forks that I don't need to do the seals. Thanks in advance!

 

[jwhelan65]

As far as the shock you can't add oil, it is self contained. It looks to be leaking? I would consider an upgrade there if possible. You can drain the forks out the bottom there is a screw that is the drain plug.

 

[soundsource]

As far as the shock you can't add oi,l it is self contained. It looks to be leaking? I would consider an upgrade there if possible. You can drain the forks out the bottom there is a screw that is the drain plug.

Phew! Joe that was quick! In terms of the shock I started to take one of the hoses of and a bit of oil came out so I shut it back again quickly - is this not supposed to happen?

Thanks for the tip on the forks, will look out for this tomorrow! (If i'm not regretting getting back out before the flu's gone...)

 

[Billy Ricks]

Phew! Joe that was quick! In terms of the shock I started to take one of the hoses of and a bit of oil came out so I shut it back again quickly - is this not supposed to happen?

Thanks for the tip on the forks, will look out for this tomorrow! (If i'm not regretting getting back out before the flu's gone...)

The oil is from the hydraulic preload adjuster and not the shock itself if you loosened that line. No harm done if you didn't lose much. You'll just have to crank more to get more preload. I'd still watch for a deal on a new or used quality shock. Used rarely come along though. I got lucky as hell and was first to pull the trigger on a Works shock someone sold here for $150.

 

[soundsource]

The oil is from the hydraulic preload adjuster and not the shock itself if you loosened that line. No harm done if you didn't lose much. You'll just have to crank more to get more preload. I'd still watch for a deal on a new or used quality shock. Used rarely come along though. I got lucky as hell and was first to pull the trigger on a Works shock someone sold here for $150.

Thanks for getting back to me Billy! So is it best to clean and paint with the hoses still on the shock? I only lost a dribble of oil when I cracked it open...

Also I've heard a lot on this forum about Hagon shocks - I've seen a couple of Bandit 1200 Hagons going quite cheap, would they fit or be close to it?

 

[Billy Ricks]

Thanks for getting back to me Billy! So is it best to clean and paint with the hoses still on the shock? I only lost a dribble of oil when I cracked it open...

Also I've heard a lot on this forum about Hagon shocks - I've seen a couple of Bandit 1200 Hagons going quite cheap, would they fit or be close to it?

If you look at the Works Performance website they have a list of specs on their shocks including the lengths. If the length is the same or even slightly longer and it has eyes at both ends you should be able to make it work.

 

[soundsource]

If you look at the Works Performance website they have a list of specs on their shocks including the lengths. If the length is the same or even slightly longer and it has eyes at both ends you should be able to make it work.

Thanks Billy, I'll check this out! In the meantime I'll see if I can get the current shock clean and painted with both lines still attached...

 

[soundsource]

Fork oil draining

Fork oil draining

So far so good - got the front wheel, spacers, etc off the forks and settled down to attack getting rid of the 30yr old gunk stored inside. Looks like it has been changed before as the allen bolt head is a little bit rounded off on the inside. Anyway, as I had been advised to expect, some limp nasty thin grey sludge comes out:

again, so far so good! Not so fast, young man, what's this I see?

Yep, damn seal's cracked and repaired with good ol' electrical tape! Funny it didn't show when I checked the seals earlier on in the strip down. Maybe I just didn't push hard enough or long enough on the bars to produce any real amount of oil on the outside.

Anyway, sure enough, once the oil has fully drained I give the fork a pump to full extension and back... The result:

Think I might have to change the seals after all! Oh well rather now than post-rebuild I suppose.

 

[soundsource]

For Forks Sake!

For Forks Sake!

Decided to tear these forks down to get to the seals. Confirmed that at least the dust seals need replacing:

And on the other side...

Yep - most definitely. Inside the seal looked a bit nasty but thankfully not completely rusted up. I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in there then got to work with my toothbrush...

Once it was clean, I fashioned a unique tool to get the circlip out:

Another handy use for a coathanger!

 

[soundsource]

Now I'm stuck! Can't find anyway to get this cap off the forks. It seems like there's either nothing holding it there but some cement, or I'm missing something huge...

Help!

 

[GateKeeper]

probably a wire clip, push down on the cap if you can and using a small thin screwdriver you might be able to remove the wire....

 

[7981GS]

You can see the wire ring clip in the pic.
You will probably have to push down in the center slightly to relieve any pressure against the clip to remove it.

Eric

 

[soundsource]

probably a wire clip, push down on the cap if you can and using a small thin screwdriver you might be able to remove the wire....

You can see the wire ring clip in the pic.
You will probably have to push down in the center slightly to relieve any pressure against the clip to remove it.

Eric

Many thanks, gentlemen! I just tried but when I have enough force on the cap to compress the spring enough to start moving the cap, my body is in such a compressed position I can't even see if what I'm doing is moving the cap or just pushing on the spring! There must be an easier way of doing this? Do I need to call a friend or does anyone know of another "special" tool that I can fashion together?

 

[soundsource]

I can see the clip, or what could be a clip, which is good. Is there any way I can relieve the pressure on the spring maybe?