Ack! Chain conversion troubles.

[demark]

Yesterday, I finally got around to looking at the 530 chain conversion for my '80 GS1100E.

I had a devil of a time getting the front sprocket cover plate off. A little persuation was needed and came in the form of a hammer actuated impact wrench.

When I got inside, I was a little disturbed:



Two of the sprocket assembly bolts had sheared and were bouncing around in the chamber. Thank God there was a large amount of sludge because it trapped the heads and kept them from jamming the chain:




You can see one of the bolt heads in the gunk just under my hand to the right of the left-most bolt. There were several washers in the sludge.

The shaft nut was really loose. When I got it off, I found out why: many of the nut threads had sheared off. I also discovered that the third assembly screw has sheared and was held in place by the lock washer.

So, now I have everything apart and discovered that the front rotor I bought (JTF513-17) doesn't have the correct bolt pattern to fit in the OEM sprocket assembly (2 bolts, 180 deg apart vs 3 bolts, 120 deg apart).

This has led to a couple questions:

(1) What does the sprocket assembly do? I know what the sprocket does, but what about the things that bolt to either side of it? The one on my bike looks beat to hell. Should I just buy another assembly and replace the OEM sprocket with a 530 one?

(2) What is the proper front sprocket for a 1980 GS1100E 530 conversion if I want 17 teeth? The one I purchased doesn't have the right bolt pattern.

(3) With the exception of the neutral indicator contact, is there any reason I shouldn't just Engine Bright this whole area?

Thanks,
- Tony

 

[Detman101]

Man, I pray to God that my conversion goes well this afternoon.

 

[earlfor]

If the threads are partly stripped out on the sprocket nut, you need to replace that nut. The side plates on the original sprocket (with three screws) stay with the old sprocket, you do not reuse them. Slip the new sprocket onto the countershaft. There should be an original spacer/bushing on the countershaft between the sprocket and the engine case. That stays. Next is the new sprocket. Next, you will need a 5mm thick washer to place on top of the sprocket. Next the serrated lock ring. Next the new sprocket nut.

Thats all there is to it.

I usually clean out all the sludge in that area when I'm in there.

The original sideplated sprocket assembly is for vibration dampening purposes. I havent used them in years. LOL

If you do not have a 5mm washer to fit onto the countershaft, you can make one from a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum. I used a drill press and hole saws. Cut the center hole 3/4ths of the way through. Then cut the outside diameter all the way through. Then cut the center hole the rest of the way through. A couple of minutes with an orbiting pad sander and #80 grit and your 1/4" (6mm) washer will be 5 mm.

Earl

When I got inside, I was a little disturbed:
Two of the sprocket assembly bolts had sheared and were bouncing around in the chamber. Thank God there was a large amount of sludge because it trapped the heads and kept them from jamming the chain:
The shaft nut was really loose. When I got it off, I found out why: many of the nut threads had sheared off. I also discovered that the third assembly screw has sheared and was held in place by the lock washer.
So, now I have everything apart and discovered that the front rotor I bought (JTF513-17) doesn't have the correct bolt pattern to fit in the OEM sprocket assembly (2 bolts, 180 deg apart vs 3 bolts, 120 deg apart).

This has led to a couple questions:

(1) What does the sprocket assembly do? I know what the sprocket does, but what about the things that bolt to either side of it? The one on my bike looks beat to hell. Should I just buy another assembly and replace the OEM sprocket with a 530 one?

(2) What is the proper front sprocket for a 1980 GS1100E 530 conversion if I want 17 teeth? The one I purchased doesn't have the right bolt pattern.

(3) With the exception of the neutral indicator contact, is there any reason I shouldn't just Engine Bright this whole area?

Thanks,
- Tony

 

[beby99]

Wow....automatic oiler. ;-)

 

[demark]

Slip the new sprocket onto the countershaft. There should be an original spacer/bushing on the countershaft between the sprocket and the engine case. That stays. Next is the new sprocket. Next, you will need a 5mm thick washer to place on top of the sprocket. Next the serrated lock ring. Next the new sprocket nut.

I was able to slide on the sprocket and spacer last night. All I need now are the new lock ring and nut.

The original sideplated sprocket assembly is for vibration dampening purposes. I havent used them in years. LOL

Guessing by their condition when I opened the bike, neither have I.

Thanks for the help.

- Tony

 

[Detman101]

My conversion went without a hitch.
Only thing was I had to fab up a 5mm washer that was big enough in the inner diameter to go over the shaft that the sprocket goes onto.

The bike rides smoother than it ever has before!

 

[demark]

I was able to slide on the sprocket and spacer last night. All I need now are the new lock ring and nut.

OK ... really stupid question for the night:

Which way does the lock ring go on? The ring has a slight lip to it, does the lip face the engine or the nut?

The old ring had one edge bent backwards to keep the nut from spinning. Do I have to do the same thing with the new one?

Thanks,
- Tony

 

[earlfor]

The lock ring slips over the splined countershaft. The opening in the ring is splined so the ring cannot rotate once slipped onto the shaft. The nut goes on top of the splined lock ring. Tighten the nut down. The edge of the lock ring the protrudes out from under the nut is supposed to be bent on top of one of the flats on the nut. I usually do two bends, 180 deg apart to lock the countershaft nut in place. It does not matter which side of the lock ring faces which way.

Earl

OK ... really stupid question for the night:

Which way does the lock ring go on? The ring has a slight lip to it, does the lip face the engine or the nut?

The old ring had one edge bent backwards to keep the nut from spinning. Do I have to do the same thing with the new one?

Thanks,
- Tony

 

[demark]

After looking at the washer and putting the nut next to it, I had a "well, duh" moment.

The old washer was just that, a flat washer with a splined cut-out in the center. There was no front or back until one end was bent over.

The new one is dish shaped (it has a raised lip the whole way round):

\______________/

The nut fits perfectly in the flat part of the dish, while the lip makes it easy to fold the end of the washer upwards, locking the nut in place.

Thanks for the help,
- Tony