Actual carb removal

[Lucero]

Hey Gang,

I've made regular use of the search function and cannot find the instruction/help I am looking for. Every thread/tutorial I find about carb rebuilds/cleaning starts with the assumption that I have already got the carbs off the damn bike. I haven't. And I could use some help with that.

I could just go out there and start unscrewing stuff and pulling on things, but I'd rather not mess anything up if possible. The bike is an 82 GS550L. I have unscrewed the fastener on the four plastic brackets that were mounting the airbox to the carbs.

On the engine side, I see four more similar brackets. I think once I unscrew those, maybe the carbs will be separated from the engine side. But I'm not sure because each of these four intakes, boots, whatever they are, also has a hex nut on the side. Does that need unscrewed too?

As I recall (not out in the garage atm), there are also a few wires connected to it. No clue how to unhook those.

I called a local "shop" (just a guy, really) and he quoted me $500 for a complete carb rebuild. Sounds steep, think I saw some others quoting much lower prices than that on here. I'd rather learn to do it myself anyway.

Does anyone have the time and patience to walk me through this on here? Your help is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[TheCafeKid]

With the 550 you've got one of the more "fiddley" bikes to get the carbs out of. Not a lot of room to work. Easiest way we've found is to undo the clamps for the boots for both the airbox side and the engine side and take them off so they don't get smashed by the tugging and prying and yanking you'll have to do later. Then, removing the bolts that hold both the front airbox and rear filter section in place will give you an extra half inch or so of room. Once you're there, you should be able to pull the carbs out of the engine side boots, and tip them upward. Then you should be able to get them shoved over to the side far enough to gain access to remove the choke and throttle cables.

From there its just a matter of pushing and pulling, till ya get em out.
That's the easy part. Getting them back in is a major PITA.

 

[tom203]

Yes, this is a labor intensive operation, especially the first time. Basically, you have to slide the air filter box back by removing any connections to the frame- this will give just enough clearance to get carbs out of airbox and boots. I assume you have tank off- take pics of throttle and choke connections to aid in reassembly. You'll be tempted to dump this one on someone else, but it's very likely that you will do a better job. Good time to think about replacing carb boots and o-rings if this bike is a keeper. The hex nuts on boots are most likely for the vacuum ports, so leave them. No shortcuts on carb cleaning!

 

[elrico]

Did you do this yet?Remove seat,disconnect battery cables,remove battery,unbolt tank fasteners,lift back end of tank up slightly and put shim/wood support between tank and frame,carefully remove all lines attached to gas tank and lift/remove tank carefully and set it down on 2x4's stacked or similar as to not damage fuel valve assembly and not drop and damage parts or cut/ pinch/bang fingers and holler hidey- hoe(hoo?).Just wondering where u at in process,more details will help out. While I dont have your model,am sure others w/same model and expertise will find you..or just expertise. Take your time. also,saw on BassCliff's web/site/link/page a manual for your model/yr ,I believe.It may be helpfull at some point.

 

[Lucero]

That's the easy part. Getting them back in is a major PITA.

I was afraid of that.

I assume you have tank off

I was hoping I could get away with leaving it on.

No shortcuts on carb cleaning!

Dammit.

Did you do this yet?

I have actually done some of that! I'm so proud of myself.

Just wondering where u at in process,more details will help out...also,saw on BassCliff's web/site/link/page a manual for your model/yr

Yeah, so I've got the seat off, the airbox side boot clamps off, battery disconnected, removed, etc. but that's it. I have the manual saved on my pc from basscliff's post on my welcome thread, and have printed the maintenance section, as well as nessism's carb cleaning tutorial.

Let me just say to all three of you that this is exactly the sort of info I needed. Thanks a ton. Will I need access to running water or anything like that? I've seen some pics where people seem to be doing this work from like their kitchens or something. Maybe they are just garage-less. I assume I probably want the tank to be empty when I remove it? Guess I probably have some siphoning to do...I just filled it before it started crapping out on me.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[bccap]

You shouldn't need to empty your tank, provided your petcock is fully functional. Just make sure it's not on prime.

 

[elrico]

You have progressed quite far:you should feel good about all that.Where is removed fuel tank to be kept/stored if it were to remain with gasoline,may I enquire? I did my Siamese Twins mostly on kitchen table,prepared mostly fo r inspection/ disassembly/reassemble procedures.Good,light,chair,heat,no bugs etc.,do job in bathrobe. Wife allowed it,it is her Suzuki after all.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Lucero, have a look at this thread I wrote some time ago. It is about how to reinstall carbs on a 550, but could be of some help.

Your frame may be different to mine, but I found that I could move the front of the rear guard back about 2" which enabled the air cleaner to go back further and create more room.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=167417

Good luck.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Have a look at the Air Intake Repair guide on my website. It's not exactly like your bike but will give you an idea of what's going on.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Trevor76]

If by local "shop" you are referring to the Rice Paddy, just...don't.

 

[Lucero]

Where is removed fuel tank to be kept/stored if it were to remain with gasoline,may I enquire?

Three options: garage with no temp control, basement, or kitchen, where it would be quite in my way. Pretty small kitchen.

Trev, no, it's not the rice paddy. Place out in Galloway called out'n'about bikes. Guy runs it from his garage.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Three options: garage with no temp control, basement, or kitchen, where it would be quite in my way. Pretty small kitchen.

Trev, no, it's not the rice paddy. Place out in Galloway called out'n'about bikes. Guy runs it from his garage.

$500 for that?? Yikes man. From a garage? Double yikes. I mean it's one thing for a stealership to charge that. They have a lot of overhead and whatnot. But holy wow.

If ya ever need a hand, PM me. I don't have a ton of free time lately but I can always talk ya through it or maybe steal away for an hour or two. Cbus isn't that far away...

 

[Lucero]

$500 for that?? Yikes man. From a garage? Double yikes. I mean it's one thing for a stealership to charge that. They have a lot of overhead and whatnot. But holy wow.

Yeah, I found it to be a tad ridiculous...particularly since they were touting their low prices in the ad where I found them (craigslist). The breakdown was $100 for rebuild kits (which I've read here I want to avoid in the first place), and the rest was all labor. $50/hr with 8 hrs labor expected (2 hrs per carb). That doesn't include the $30 inspection fee.

I've had a handful of people offer to help, and I appreciate it for sure. I'll be in touch if I get held up.

 

[mike_of_bbg]

TCK's directions are sound. All clamps loose, carbs out of head boots, then rotate front end up. Disconnect cables, wiggle/slide out to the right. I've gotten pretty good at this on my own 550LZ - the first time is, in fact, the hardest. New, supple boots help. A heat gun might, too.

On re-assembly, make sure you re-attach the throttle before you shove the carbs back into the intake boots! Ask me how I know You'll also need to make sure you don't fold down the edges of the airbox boots. The tiniest little bit of rubber-safe grease around the inside of the boots goes a long way, too.

 

[havoK]

Lucero, I have torn my carbs apart repeatedly, and actually have learned a ton by doing so...I thought at first it would be a bear to do, but it turned out to be a long way anyway, cause I had to do them again to get them RIGHT...
Also, I am in Cleveland, if I can help ya...(have not done a 550, but the 750 gets lots of wrenching...)
I can say, to be carefull if you have to remove the carb boots...those bolts/screws snap EASY....and not fun to fix after...
And welcome to the help desk...

 

[Lucero]

I found that I could move the front of the rear guard back about 2" which enabled the air cleaner to go back further and create more room.

Awesome tip. The pictures are priceless. Will do this for sure.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Awesome tip. The pictures are priceless. Will do this for sure.

Good luck. Although good preparation and management beats good luck every time. And you seem to be doing that quite well.

 

[elrico]

If gas/fuel to remain in tank,treat gas w/Sta-bil fuel stabilizer as per;container directive,stuff works well.Don't want gas turn funky and cause any problems and w/eventually rebuilt carb.set and engine performance down the line.Secure garage w/tank placed out of harm's way w/protective padded breathable material off of floor w/good air circulation around/about it should do it,till time comes to wake things up. Tank petcock,as it sets low on bottom is vunerable esp.if tank were to somehow be bumped off its perch,and we know we don't want that to happen,best wishes on project.

 

[Steve]

The breakdown was $100 for rebuild kits (which I've read here I want to avoid in the first place), and the rest was all labor. $50/hr with 8 hrs labor expected (2 hrs per carb). That doesn't include the $30 inspection fee.

Let's break it down for doing it yourself:
- Let's be generous and say it's going to take you an hour to take them out. That includes removing the tank, seat, etc.
- If you are slow and careful, it will take another hour to totally disassemble the carbs.
- You will need a gallon-size can of Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip, about $22 at Auto Zone.
- You will need an o-ring kit from cycleorings.com, about $15.
- While you are there, go ahead and get the intake boot o-rings and stainless hardware, less than $10.
- Yes, you will need to spurge eventually, so go ahead and get your Carbtune synchronizer, that will be 68 Pounds ($102.32).
- You will spend about half an hour with each carb as it comes out of the dip, cleaning it and putting it back together (total of two hours).
- After the last carb is out of the dip (on the fourth day), plan on about an hour to put the rack together and do a bench sync.
- It shouldn't take more than an hour to put the carbs back on, sync them and put the tank and seat back on.

TOTAL:
About 6 hours of your time (spread out over 4 or 5 days).*
About $150 for parts and tools.

You will gain a great-running bike and more toys in the toolbox that you won't have to buy again. :clap: :clap:



* This is a rather generous estimate. It really shouldn't take nearly that long, I am just allowing for it being your first time doing this.

.

 

[elrico]

If leaving fuel in tank for storage not appealing,is not too hard to empty tank of fuel,will make tank lighter and easy to manage etc. Could even do visual inspection in and out-side w/no fuel in it.