That would be to go slow on steep downhill curves.
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That would be to go slow on steep downhill curves.
H
Hovmod
Guest
Yeah, the best advice is to never crash.
Yep, always go slower than you think you will need to. Sometimes the only solution to a surprise is something you really will not like. It doesn't matter how fast you are in the curves if you can't come out the other side.
Uphill curves any moron can come out the other side in one piece. Downhill curves, not so much.
True that! heh
P
pmong
Guest
This is a rule I can live with!!!
Now, only if I can figure out how to live within the rule.
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
One piece of advice I tend to give to every new-ish rider that asks me for such, and it may have been mentioned already but it kind of got glossed over:
Keep your revs up. I have encountered many newer or "new to curved roads" riders who either feel that they're going to hurt the bike by constantly spinning it at 7k rpm, or are so used to just loafing around in fourth or fifth gear that they find themselves getting into a lot of trouble on twisty roads, ESPECIALLY downhill portions. By running into corners, especially tighter corners where youre forced to slow down and or lean hard, in higher gears, the rear wheel can in some cases be spinning faster than the crank of the engine. This causes a "free wheel" effect. Remember when having free wheel on your bicycle was cool? Well the free wheel action whilst steaming into a corner on a 500lb motorcycle isn't cool. It causes a number of things to possibly create "pucker moments" (that instant you realize that you're in the corner Wayyy to hot..) for inexperienced riders that forces a lot of action by the rider in a very short span of time. If any ONE of these actions is second guessed, performed incorrectly, or not at all, the result can be quite painful at worst, and damn scary at best.
For starters, keeping the revs up by selecting correct gearing prior to the corner (combined with whatever braking you've decided is appropriate) will allow the bike to slow some via compression braking (aka engine braking). This is important because it allows you to slow the bike without using so much brake, which can upset the balance of the center of gravity. Ideally, for a newer rider, the center of gravity should be situated as close to the center of the bike as possible. Applying front brakes will push the CG toward the front, (which for a rider with more experience can be helpful, but requires a good feel and understanding of the forces at work, and what the bike is telling you is going on under you) while applying throttle will push the CG to the rear of the bike (again, can be helpful in certain situations). If you roll into a corner in a high gear, you're not going to have that compression brakin to help you, and if something is amiss mid corner, you're going to have to rely on brakes alone, or throttle , or lean angle changes mid corner etc which all can upset the chassis and can cause some hairy situations.
Selecting the right gear for a given turn requires some experience with your particular bike, and understanding of your comfort level. But a general rule of thumb that worked well for me when I was learning this was this:
If the yellow "suggested speed" sign for the corner starts with a "2" (ie 20MPh, 25MPH etc) second gear is likely the correct gear, if it starts with a "3" then third gear and so on.
Once you gain some experience, and it you choose to push a little harder in corners, you may find that second and third gear are where you spend most of your time.
And don't be afraid that youre hurting the bike by revving it. These girls like to spin, and will happily crank out 7K RPM all day long like its a walk in the park. You just have to get used to the fact that it's an air-cooled motor, and it will make a lot of sound that's not dampened by a water jacket and noise reducing equipment that modern bikes and cars have.
Keep your revs up. I have encountered many newer or "new to curved roads" riders who either feel that they're going to hurt the bike by constantly spinning it at 7k rpm, or are so used to just loafing around in fourth or fifth gear that they find themselves getting into a lot of trouble on twisty roads, ESPECIALLY downhill portions. By running into corners, especially tighter corners where youre forced to slow down and or lean hard, in higher gears, the rear wheel can in some cases be spinning faster than the crank of the engine. This causes a "free wheel" effect. Remember when having free wheel on your bicycle was cool? Well the free wheel action whilst steaming into a corner on a 500lb motorcycle isn't cool. It causes a number of things to possibly create "pucker moments" (that instant you realize that you're in the corner Wayyy to hot..) for inexperienced riders that forces a lot of action by the rider in a very short span of time. If any ONE of these actions is second guessed, performed incorrectly, or not at all, the result can be quite painful at worst, and damn scary at best.
For starters, keeping the revs up by selecting correct gearing prior to the corner (combined with whatever braking you've decided is appropriate) will allow the bike to slow some via compression braking (aka engine braking). This is important because it allows you to slow the bike without using so much brake, which can upset the balance of the center of gravity. Ideally, for a newer rider, the center of gravity should be situated as close to the center of the bike as possible. Applying front brakes will push the CG toward the front, (which for a rider with more experience can be helpful, but requires a good feel and understanding of the forces at work, and what the bike is telling you is going on under you) while applying throttle will push the CG to the rear of the bike (again, can be helpful in certain situations). If you roll into a corner in a high gear, you're not going to have that compression brakin to help you, and if something is amiss mid corner, you're going to have to rely on brakes alone, or throttle , or lean angle changes mid corner etc which all can upset the chassis and can cause some hairy situations.
Selecting the right gear for a given turn requires some experience with your particular bike, and understanding of your comfort level. But a general rule of thumb that worked well for me when I was learning this was this:
If the yellow "suggested speed" sign for the corner starts with a "2" (ie 20MPh, 25MPH etc) second gear is likely the correct gear, if it starts with a "3" then third gear and so on.
Once you gain some experience, and it you choose to push a little harder in corners, you may find that second and third gear are where you spend most of your time.
And don't be afraid that youre hurting the bike by revving it. These girls like to spin, and will happily crank out 7K RPM all day long like its a walk in the park. You just have to get used to the fact that it's an air-cooled motor, and it will make a lot of sound that's not dampened by a water jacket and noise reducing equipment that modern bikes and cars have.
G
Guest
Guest
"If the yellow "suggested speed" sign for the corner starts with a "2" (ie 20MPh, 25MPH etc) second gear is likely the correct gear, if it starts with a "3" then third gear and so on.
The sign says, 5 mph in the corner. oh oh Huston we have a problem lol.
The sign says, 5 mph in the corner. oh oh Huston we have a problem lol.
That means it's a 5th gear W.O.T. curve, right?
P
pmong
Guest
Selecting the right gear for a given turn requires some experience with your particular bike, and understanding of your comfort level. But a general rule of thumb that worked well for me when I was learning this was this:
If the yellow "suggested speed" sign for the corner starts with a "2" (ie 20MPh, 25MPH etc) second gear is likely the correct gear, if it starts with a "3" then third gear and so on.
Some great advice, but.... I have the GS450GA, a shaft drive and automatic! I guess if I were still riding one of my previous bikes, I can use your speed-linked-to-gear technique. Any suggestions for this particular bike?
Stick to going up hills only, it's much safer and easier.
7
7981GS
Guest
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmong
Some great advice, but.... I have the GS450GA, a shaft drive and automatic! I guess if I were still riding one of my previous bikes, I can use your speed-linked-to-gear technique.
Any suggestions for this particular bike?
Hang on and Pray?
Eric
Originally Posted by pmong
Some great advice, but.... I have the GS450GA, a shaft drive and automatic! I guess if I were still riding one of my previous bikes, I can use your speed-linked-to-gear technique.
Any suggestions for this particular bike?
Hang on and Pray?
Eric
H
haztoys
Guest
Never ever ever 'coast' a motorcycle you are on the gas or draging the brakes ...Do not point your 'knee'..You should be 'Hailwooding' untill you can scrap pegs...Then you can point your knee...
Must LOL..Had a left over new one at a shop I worked at as a kid ..I just loved that thing ..:lol: Just flogged the hell out of it...
Must LOL..Had a left over new one at a shop I worked at as a kid ..I just loved that thing ..:lol: Just flogged the hell out of it...
P
pmong
Guest
Thanks everyone. Been practicing many of the suggestions, and I do feel more confident on the curves, including downhill. But, will aways keep in mind to slow appropriately before entering.
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