Who makes the hands down very best oil with the most anti frothing properties?? Is it the silica percentage that makes the oil anti frothing?? Trying to understand all this anti frothing information.
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Anti frothing race oil
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
O
Old guy
Guest
We ran rotella in every car we raced and built. Mostly modern 4 cyl turbo motors and hopped up v6s. Road racing, 30-40 mins a session, 5-6 a day, 2 day weekends, 8 weekends a year if not more. 8k rpms WOT for most of the race. All over 100hp per liter motors.
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Old guy
Guest
Most pro drift teams run rotella too.
See the problem is that as the oil runs back down in my Yamaha TX750, the oil is whipped by the counter balancers and what gets to the pan has air in it. Thus the scavanger pumps dont keep prime..which in turn lets the top end suffer oil deprivation.
I need a super good anti frothing oil to combat this so the pump keeps oil circulation going. I think this is a little bit of a different situation Old Guy.
I need a super good anti frothing oil to combat this so the pump keeps oil circulation going. I think this is a little bit of a different situation Old Guy.
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Old guy
Guest
Do you have a diagram of the oiling system?
No..I have looked in my factory manual and there isnt one that I have found.
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Old guy
Guest
Can you ditch the balance shafts?
Yes the balancers can be removed..but then your on the most vibrating bike known to mankind. I had an XS 650 once and that thing was terrible. these counter balancers are designed to remove the vibration from the engine.
The Early XS 650s had no balance shafts, and they weren't that bad. You could ride it all day, I did many many thousand mile plus weekends on my '72. You could feel the vibration, but it was tolerable. The later balanced ones were smoother for sure. Something must have been wrong with yours if you thought it was that bad.
I have also ridden a Triumph that was not put together right, it was like the paint shaker down at Lowe's, you couldn't even see the road because your head was shaking too much. Painful painful, and I only rode it a couple blocks.
If the piston weight is correct for the crankshaft it won't be that bad. What do the TX 750 enthusiasts do? Remove the balancer and rebalance the crankshaft? Super light pistons, rods and wrist pins? Maybe some kind of baffle to keep the oil in the right place?
There must be a known fix….
I have also ridden a Triumph that was not put together right, it was like the paint shaker down at Lowe's, you couldn't even see the road because your head was shaking too much. Painful painful, and I only rode it a couple blocks.
If the piston weight is correct for the crankshaft it won't be that bad. What do the TX 750 enthusiasts do? Remove the balancer and rebalance the crankshaft? Super light pistons, rods and wrist pins? Maybe some kind of baffle to keep the oil in the right place?
There must be a known fix….
O
Old guy
Guest
http://www.tobyfolwick.com/tx750/textual/mo1272.php
This says it's a dry sump system??
Could you add a swirl pot somewhere?
This says it's a dry sump system??
Could you add a swirl pot somewhere?
They wait for it to break down again...
What contributed to the problem in the first place was Castrol coming out with the first GTX oil around the same time.
I remember very well seeing dry sump tanks full of brown froth.....We learned quickly not to use it in air cooled motors. I believe it was one of the first high detergent oils.
I'd think a modern motorcycle semi synthetic would work well enough. The frothing problem really only showed up on these if they were thrashed - it was and is largely RPM dependent. The ZX range of Kawasakis with a balancer shaft running in a semi dry area of the sump would have the same problem if the oils of the past were used....
I remember very well seeing dry sump tanks full of brown froth.....We learned quickly not to use it in air cooled motors. I believe it was one of the first high detergent oils.
I'd think a modern motorcycle semi synthetic would work well enough. The frothing problem really only showed up on these if they were thrashed - it was and is largely RPM dependent. The ZX range of Kawasakis with a balancer shaft running in a semi dry area of the sump would have the same problem if the oils of the past were used....
Greg..I agree with that as I understand thinmgs from the article in Classic Yammy. When I got the bike and found the hammered intake valve stems we redid the upper end and put in all new valves. I will post pics of the valves when i get home tonight.
Guy in Killeen thats been a metric mechanic for nearly 35 years ( Randy Voet ) was well aware of the TX from back in the day and advised me to use the Honda HP4 synthetic blend race oil..which was what was in it. Once it began smoking I tore it back down to see what I could find and found the cam problem had indeed came home to the bike.
So maybe it was that far gone and the 1300 miles I have put on it just pushed it over the edge..who knows. But now that its all new , yet again, I just want to cover all my bases as best I can.
I am even interested in finding the added on sump extention and the matching longer bolts and adding it to this engine before any restarts. I think that additional extention and the very best oil I can run will maybe save it from this happening again.
Guy in Killeen thats been a metric mechanic for nearly 35 years ( Randy Voet ) was well aware of the TX from back in the day and advised me to use the Honda HP4 synthetic blend race oil..which was what was in it. Once it began smoking I tore it back down to see what I could find and found the cam problem had indeed came home to the bike.
So maybe it was that far gone and the 1300 miles I have put on it just pushed it over the edge..who knows. But now that its all new , yet again, I just want to cover all my bases as best I can.
I am even interested in finding the added on sump extention and the matching longer bolts and adding it to this engine before any restarts. I think that additional extention and the very best oil I can run will maybe save it from this happening again.
I'd like to second this opinion.
If it were me, I wouldn't put my money down on a synthetic blend oil in an engine with known oil related problems.
Let me fix this for you just a little bit??.
Yes Tom....I am confident that the solution can be found that will allow the bike to run trouble free for many more years. Dont you just love a challenge???
Some challenges are more lovable than others...
Well, if it's a complete clean fresh build, you could always use castor base - if you can source it at an affordable price.
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