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BassCliff GS850GT Top End Refresh

  • Thread starter Thread starter BassCliff
  • Start date Start date
Best thing I've found to soften the base gasket is Permatex gasket remover spray. Shoot some in a cup, then dab it on with a small brush. Stuff takes about half a day to soften the gasket, and it will take several applications before you get all the gasket off.

Took my head and cylinder to a machine shop to get them surfaced, and the owner told me he gets lots of heads (auto) with damaged gasket surfaces after people take power tools to the things trying to remove gaskets. Says he's made a lot of money machining heads after someone took those 3M pads to them.
 
BC, great series of pics and dialog! Your Jesse Blue looks alot like my Ol' Blue 1981 GS850G, other than the round turn signals (mine are rectangular). Bought Ol' Blue in PHX new, back when I had money to spend...
 
Hi,

Thanks Cliff for the great photos and detailed description.

I'm expecting to go down a similar track to replace carb inlet rubbers and O rings. This will be my reference.

You might want to have a look at this "how to" guide (PDF file).

Air Intake Repair:
(Airbox removal, intake boots and O-ring replacement)

And this page by a real guru, Mr. bwringer:
Replace intake boot o-rings




Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi,

Ha! I have been so busy lately that I've had not time to spend in the garage. I'm working 10 hour days and the band has been hopping this summer (6 gigs in 5 days this week!). I may have to take a couple of days off work to get it put back together. I'll be sure to update this thread with the continuing saga.

Thanks for thinking of me. ;)



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
This same project is quite possibly in my future. I will benefit greatly from your thread. I am already going to employ the "shop towel" method.
 
cliff, thanks again for your thorough write-ups and clear photos. You are an invaluable resource to the intrepid gs owner, and your help has inspired many, including me, to tackle jobs that would without your guidance be too much to contemplate. I look forward to reading the final version of the tutorial!!

greg
 
Finally! A little time in the "man cave".

Finally! A little time in the "man cave".

Hi,

I know, I know. This is taking entirely too long. Between work, the band, church, and other obligations I have had precious little time to continue my little project. But I managed to squeeze in a little time on this 4 day Independence Day weekend. I hope all of you are enjoying your Independence Day celebrations.

Yesterday I got started on removing the baked-on base gasket.

DSCF2855_zps808ea2bb.jpg


A mechanic friend of my gave me a can of this stuff and said is was really good. He said to be careful with it because it will burn your hands.

DSCF2856_zpsedba1edc.jpg


The directions said to spray it on and let it set for about 10 minutes before trying to scrape off the gasket.

DSCF2858_zps72be56f2.jpg


So while the juice was doing its magic, I thought I go ahead and remove the old rings from the pistons.

DSCF2861_zps657e88e0.jpg


The top two compression rings came off using only my fingers.

On the oil rings I used a little flat blade screwdriver to get them started out of the channel and then used my fingers.

DSCF2862_zps2e777fb0.jpg


All of the oil rings separated upon removal. I suppose they're supposed to do this.

DSCF2863_zps7551b26e.jpg


DSCF2864_zpscbe2c425.jpg


So let's check on the gasket, shall we?

Well, my plastic putty blade is not making a dent in the gasket.

DSCF2866_zps3e4e81e0.jpg


So I start carefully working on it with razor blades.

DSCF2867_zps9cdf79b9.jpg


This gasket remover didn't work as well as I had hoped. I would scrape, then re-apply, and scrape some more. I eventually used one of my sharp wood chisels to move the process along. This is where I ended up, I still have a ways to go.

DSCF2870_zpsa27a1320.jpg


I'm going to clean it up as best I can and then take up SqDancerLynn on her offer using her Roloc discs. Using the right bristle discs is not supposed to score the surfaces. I'll keep you informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Cliff,
Be careful with those Roloc's, they can gouge the aluminum. Machinest guy that surfaced my head and cylinder said those things make a lot of money for HIM (because people mess up their parts).

On the pistons, take care to scrape all the carbon out of the ring grooves. Snap one of the rings off and it works nicely as a scraper.

Good luck and keep going...
 
Cliff, stick with the razor blade idea to remove the gasket. That's your safest bet.
 
Also you can use a Scotch-Brite pad on the base gasket along with the careful use of the razor blade, not fast but the Scotch-Brite won't damage the surface. It took me the better part of a day to clean mine up.

Not planning on removing the pistons?
 
Cool I can show you a head I spent 5 minutes cleaning up... You need to let the disk do the work NOT pressing down on it..
 
Agree Rolocs are wonderful things. Be gentle with them as advised. They are industry standard. Silly people will break a bowling ball with a feather and there is no fool-proof (emphasis on "fool") method except not being one. :D

Ebay can be a great place to get Roloc, similar proprietary discs (make sure you get the right mandrel) and Dremel items.

Another method is to use a razor blade (single-edge variety unless you like to bleed) or a utility knife blade (not in the knife) held perpendicular to the surface you are scraping (less likely to gouge). I prefer the Rolocs though.

K&W or similar Copper Coat spray gasket compound is terrific stuff. (I've even re-used a Shovelhead Fel-Pro head "blue" gasket by spraying it!)

I hang my gaskets from a coat hanger, spray, then let dry for a few minutes.

A simple way to hold pistons vertical prior to installing the jug is to use plastic or wooden dowels (clean, no splinters of course) under the skirts.

Ensure pistons don't rock or getting the cylinder on will be interesting. A scriber and a small flat-tip screwdriver are useful for poking stray rings into place. Worm-drive hose clamps make good ring compressors.

Have a BRIGHT light handy. LED tactical lights are good for this.

A shop vacuum is nice for removing crumbs.

Pic found on internet shows example wood piston skirt supports.
 
Hi,

Thank you for all the supporting information. I really appreciate it. I'm going to do my best to do it right the first time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Just went through the same loooong process of removing the base gasket on my 850.

I also started with the gasket removal spray, also with very little success.

So I began applying the razor blade technique. I did that over the course of several hours over several days. Then, I read another post here where someone used a Dremel with stainless steel brush attachments. So I tried that.

It did work, but it was still slow going. You have to apply it at an angle and the brushes don't last all that long. Eventually I got all the gasket removed and the brushes did not appear to score the head at all and left it looking pretty shiny and smooth.



Since removing the gasket, I've been cleaning the heck out of the cylinder head in preparation for painting it.

Thanks for this write up, BC - it's been hugely helpful and it's nice to know that I'm not the only one trying to balance work, family and a rebuild. It isn't something that can be done in a weekend, that's for sure.
 
Hi,

Yes, this project has been progressing at a glacial pace during great, if really warm, riding weather. :(

I also ordered a new SH775 to go with my new Caltric stator. I will install these as a pair and hope the series regulator allows the stator to run cooler, last longer, and perhaps not discolor and melt like my others have. I have been using an SH678 and have been replacing the stator about every two years.

I bought some heavy-duty oven cleaner. I thought I'd try that on the rest of the gasket. I know not to leave the over cleaner on there very long for fear of damaging the aluminum. :p


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Just went through the same loooong process of removing the base gasket on my 850.

I also started with the gasket removal spray, also with very little success.

So I began applying the razor blade technique. I did that over the course of several hours over several days. Then, I read another post here where someone used a Dremel with stainless steel brush attachments. So I tried that.

It did work, but it was still slow going. You have to apply it at an angle and the brushes don't last all that long. Eventually I got all the gasket removed and the brushes did not appear to score the head at all and left it looking pretty shiny and smooth.



Since removing the gasket, I've been cleaning the heck out of the cylinder head in preparation for painting it.

Thanks for this write up, BC - it's been hugely helpful and it's nice to know that I'm not the only one trying to balance work, family and a rebuild. It isn't something that can be done in a weekend, that's for sure.

It can, just without sleep.
 
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