battery fluid

[Rob S.]

Assuming stator, regulator/rectifier and battery all work properly (or reasonably well) for the following reasons: bike runs great!

Starts, idles, redlines all great. Occasionally battery fluid needs topping off.

Now seat is locked and cannot be opened. I can charge the battery, but cannot physically access it to check or add electrolyte.

Until I get the seat off, what kind of damage am I doing to which components by charging (self monitoring) a battery that may be low on electrolyte?

I drilled out the seat lock, seat still won't release. I've got to find my "Oversize Hammers" catalogue.

Till then, what kind of damage am I doing to which components by charging (with a self monitoring charger) a battery that may be low on electrolyte?

Surprise, surprise, I'm talking about the old Suzi ('82 1100e)

 

[Rob S.]

Actually, reg/rect might not be in top shape since low electrolyte might indicate an over charging situation, correct?

 

[Nessism]

Never add electrolyte to the battery, only distilled water. You want to keep the fluid level over the plates or damage can occur.

 

[Rob S.]

Never add electrolyte to the battery, only distilled water. You want to keep the fluid level over the plates or damage can occur.

Yes I know about that, but can't comply until I get the seat off. At least I don't have that stock air box!

 

[BurntKittyForge]

Good idea to ALWAYS disconnect the battery cables when charging with larger than trickle charger...

For my bike the manual states to disconnect cables when charger is over 0.8 amps (Or damage to regulator rectifier can occur)...

I was headed out of town, wanted to start my bike and let it warm up this weekend before leaving.
So once I turned the key to ON and connected 2 amp charger...didn't start, but must've done something to solenoid (I'm thinking temporarily welded together(?)) because starter got stuck turning until I quickly disconnected the battery cables...stupid.

I tapped on the solenoid (With metal junk) and it worked ok with 2amp charge removed , but died quickly because I need a new batt.
Made me late heading out of town over stupid hurry mistake...Wondering whether I might as well look for a new solenoid since some damage must've occured ,although it worked normal again...Just got back.

(This is my '93 GSX1100G I'm refering to) ...D^MN ! The battery can be ordered from/to walmart for around $38 and a site "battery sharks" had a very cheap imitation battery with sealed, fiber mat similar to GEL, but w/ shipping same as walmart price...

Welp, gotta log out. (drove 2 days, picked up my [kids] ...acting like ...ATM even though they're not really......

 

[geol]

I know this is something already thought of regarding the seat. I had an 82 GS1100E many years ago and can't recall how the seat hinged but on my current GS, I suspect I would remove the side cover on the hinge side, break off the cotter pins or remove them from the hinges and tap the hinge pins out. Is that something you could do on the 82? I can't reall the lock mechanism at all but seems one the pins are gone you could pull the seat out.

 

[yank]

I know this is something already thought of regarding the seat. I had an 82 GS1100E many years ago and can't recall how the seat hinged but on my current GS, I suspect I would remove the side cover on the hinge side, break off the cotter pins or remove them from the hinges and tap the hinge pins out. Is that something you could do on the 82? I can't reall the lock mechanism at all but seems one the pins are gone you could pull the seat out.

Lock mechanism is on the rear cowl I'm pretty sure it is not hinged , but I do not own one.

 

[JJ]

Personally, I wouldn't ride it and risk harming anything until I could get the seat off. It can't be THAT bad. (I hope!)

After all, you do have the 883 to ride.

 

[Brendan W]

If the electrolyte is low enough to expose plates to air they will sulphate. Depending on yada yada this can be terminal ( pun intended )
I have topped off many batteries that wouldn't take charge or were cranking slow and in nearly all cases the battery survived the experience.
Just don't push your luck.
Did I mention that if they are really bad you can explode them.
PS this means that if you want to give an old battery with unknown history a speculative refill and charge you might want to check out youtube and take the children and animals indoors.

 

[Rob S.]

It's the mother-friggin' seat that I can't remove that's at the heart of my current dillemma.

I just wanted to gas up as she was on reserve. Now she stays home until seat comes off.

I was guessing my R/R is not up to snuff as it seems to boil out the electrolyte several times a year. Not a crisis unless you can't get to the battery to top it off.

 

[Brendan W]

I was guessing my R/R is not up to snuff as it seems to boil out the electrolyte several times a year. Not a crisis unless you can't get to the battery to top it off.

What is the voltage topping out at?
If you still have a shunt r/r going slowly south, you know that as soon it gets bored boiling the battery it's going to fry the stator. At least the seat can stay put to replace that

 

[Brendan W]

Rob I'm sending you a PM about something you could try. It works on the 850 although I have the benefit of being able to open the seat to get a head start on it.
Don't want to post on open forum.
If it works get back.

 

[Rob S.]

Seat is off!

Battery is out being charged in the slop sink.

Cell under the positive terminal was full, under the negative one third full, others varied. Anything to be gleaned from that, other than she's over charging and boiling out electrolyte?

Solution to getting seat off? A bigger hammer!

 

[Steve]

When you get a new battery (which appears to be sooner, rather than later) consider getting a sealed AGM battery.

Note that "AGM" is a construction style, not a brand name.

.

 

[Rob S.]

I used to think that, now I know it stands for "absorbed glass mat".

Assuming it's stock, my R/R is shunt, correct, and what I want is series, right?

 

[Guest]

I used to think that, now I know it stands gor "absorbed glass mat".

Assuming it's stock, my R/R is shunt, correct, and what I want is series, right?

Right a Series RR. Don't forget to test the stator, chances are you probably will need a new one as well. Might as well start with a fresh new charging system.

 

[Rob S.]

I still haven't done the hardest part - getting the battery post bolts to grab their nuts. (insert joke here).

I usually put paper or cardboard under to lift them.

 

[jsandidge]

I still haven't done the hardest part - getting the battery post bolts to grab their nuts. (insert joke here).

I usually put paper or cardboard under to lift them.

A folded zip tie works well too.

 

[Rob S.]

My PO (a flipper) told me he rode with the brights on all the time. I wonder if that shunts a tiny bit away from the battery. I'm just so excited to have two gassed, charged bikes ready to run at a moments notice.

Anybody ever got deep scratches out of a face shield?

Harley question: I don't notice any helmet lock, not even a hook for storage while parked.

I bet they'll sell me something, though. That parts catalogue is their cash cow.

 

[limeex2]

Hers a battery lesson I learned from Honda. They were paying through the nose for battery warranties. Servicing a new battery.
Fill with supplied acid.Leave caps OFF and let battery cool down from initial filling. 4-8hrs
Charge with a Battery Tender with caps off until you get your green light. Let cool down again.
Install caps and your ready to go. Cooling is important because excess heat will warp the very thin plates inside the battery. My last good, Yuasa AGM battery lasted me over 7 years. In winter, charge them once a month, never took one out in 20 years.