Big mess up on GS1000 engine install. What are my options?

[FLHGSRay]

This seems to happen alot when engine guards are removed. The bolts that hold the guards are longer than the stock bolts. I actually read in a thread here about it as I was bringing my bike back from the dead. I ended up buying longer bolts and cutting them to the proper length.

 

[blowerbike]

going off of memory this happens to 1000's with stock bolts.
one side is longer than the other...mix them up and POP...right through the engine case.

 

[Flyboy]

For sealing the cases, I use Indian Head, have for years and swear by the stuff, I use it on all the Alfa Romeo engines I have built, and they take no gaskets, all machined fit, narry a leak, ever.

Or failing that a good red RTV will do the job.
No need to pay Suzuki prices for essentially the same stuff under brand name,

 

[JTGS850GL]

Sorry this happened to you but I do thank you for the heads up on this. I would have never thought that mixing up the bolts would cause such a horrific problem. Getting ready to do an engine swap on my GS1000 and I could see this happening to me. Hope everything goes well and thanks again.

Julius

 

[crackerman]

Back to square one. Got the engine welded and put her back together today. I'm a little worried about the the transmission. The gears are like a rubix cube and I figured out how to get the top mated with the the bottom, but I'm not sure the shifting will work right now. I'm guessing I can install the clutch lever and do a dry shift through the gears? I'd hate to drop 4 quarts of oil in the engine then find out I gotta split the cases again.

Any one know if I can do a dry testing of the transmission or the best way to test?

Anyway she's back in the bike. All bolted up, making sure not to put the bolts through the engine case. I think I've mastered installing the engine on my own.

 

[rustybronco]

Bar the engine over using a 19 mm wrench on the right side under the points cover all the while pushing the shift lever. You should be able to feel it go into every gear on the way up and the same on the way back down.

 

[TeamDar]

Bar the engine over using a 19 mm wrench on the right side under the points cover all the while pushing the shift lever. You should be able to feel it go into every gear on the way up and the same on the way back down.

Much easier to turn the rear wheel by hand on the center stand. That way you are just moving the transmission gears and not the crankshaft and clutch. If you don't have the chain installed then just turn the countershaft/sprocket.

 

[crackerman]

Got the chain on and the shifter. Shifted down, but now seems locked up. Can't spin the wheel or move it into neutral. Going to try rolling it of the bike stand. Not feeling good about this.

 

[TeamDar]

You can't move the wheel either direction?

 

[crackerman]

You can't move the wheel either direction?

Yea the wheel will move about an inch in each direction. Shifting doesn't seem to make any difference. I've been looking at the service manual and I think I know what I need to do. The black and white pics are pretty terrible so it's kinda hard to see how I'm suppose to install. I found a guy selling a mostly complete gs1000 for $300. I might just swap the engines and put my top end on.

Back to pulling the engine and the tear down. I've done this so many times now it should only take me a couple hours.

 

[chuck hahn]

Check the alignment of the shifter pawl in the clutch cover side. 1 tooth off and thats the symptom. Also, with the cover off the clutch, remover the pressure plate and use a ( think its 30MM socket ) and your drill to spin the input shaft. I have a socket adapter thing that fits in my drill with the regular 3/8 drive end that I use. Then I add the 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter so the socket will attach. ( My socket is a 1/2 inch drive ) so I have to do some adapting. If you have a 1/2 inch chucked drill you can take an old extention and cut it off so it will chuck up and you good.


Start easy so the drill doesnt twist your wrist if its locked up solidly.

Now with the center hub spinning as it would be with the bike running, your replicating actual use and actual shifting scenarios. Often youll find that with the hub spinning it shifts normally when any othr way seems to be jammed. Why you ask?? Because these are not syncronised shifting trannys. The centrifigal force of the input shaft spinning and the motion itself makes the gears slide around easier and thus catch and release normally.

 

[rustybronco]

There isn't any reason to remove the engine just yet.

Does the clutch disengage when you pull in the clutch lever?

Pull off the points cover and use a wrench to turn the engine while trying to shift it back into neutral, that or remove the clutches and
rotate the rear wheel pulling up on the shift lever.

 

[Nessism]

With the bike on the center stand you should be able to jostle the rear wheel back and forth while moving the shift lever so see if the shift fork system is working properly. If you can't get the lever to move smoothly through the gears the next step would be to pull the clutch out and watch the selector and detent mechanism to see if there is any binding there. Cracking the cases again would be last resort.

 

[crackerman]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll try pulling the clutch and see what I can do.

 

[crackerman]

Pulled the cover to the clutch. So I can turn the 32mm nut, clockwise, and that moved rear wheel backward without a problem but can't turn the nut counter clockwise to make the wheel go forward. The shifter seems to be all the way down, so I'm thinking it's just in 1rst gear. Tried shifting it up to find neutral but can's seem to shift it. Should I pull the clutch plates and clutch assemble out? Still got the bike on the stand.

 

[JTGS850GL]

Tried shifting it up to find neutral but can's seem to shift it.

Not a good sign. You should be able to go into neutral from 1st pretty easily by simply rocking the rear wheel.

 

[crackerman]

Yea I just mess around with moving the wheel backwards and shifting. I heard it click in a gear but can't seem to find neutral as it won't go forward.

 

[rustybronco]

It should turn with the clutch pressure plate removed but as it's only take a few more seconds to remove the steels and frictions, pull them.

Does the shift lever return to it's center position when you operate it? Did you try turning the 32 mm nut back and forth while you moved the shifter?

 

[chuck hahn]

Take a close up picture of the shifter pawl thats right behind the basket at the lower left side of the well. Like I said earlier..one tooth off and it will jam up because it doesnt allow the ratcheter on the shift drum to reset properly.

 

[GSX1000E]

This is what it is supposed to look like. Notice that one tooth is on either side when it is installed correctly.