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  • In order to help others find info on a particular bike, be sure to put the year, make or model of bike that you are asking a question about, in the Topic Title. This will allow people to pass by posts they have no interest in.

Building/equipping a workshop/garage.

Insulation is on three of the four walls downstairs, the heater is on about 5 minutes every half hour now (outside temp was about 20). :dancing:

IMG_0129_zps3vphvas7.jpg


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I know a guy that will take your soul for one.
PM me if interested. Muahahahahahahhaha!
 
You may have noticed the fluorescent lights in the first picture above. They are the lights that will end up there, but will have to come down to put up the ceiling panels. The extra wiring that is hanging around is all the runners that will go from one light to the next, leaving room to pull them out of the ceiling, in case of major maintenance or replacement. Bulb changes will be simply lowering the lens and changing the bulbs. Only 6 of the fixtures are in right now, the other 10 will be installed within a day or so from when they are removed from one of my hospitals.

There will be no shortage of electrons, either, feast your eyes on this:

IMG_0086_zpses3aelsj.jpg


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:cool:

Yeah, some of the breakers don't match, but they will work until I can get the proper ones.


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Insulation is on three of the four walls downstairs, the heater is on about 5 minutes every half hour now (outside temp was about 20). :dancing:

IMG_0129_zps3vphvas7.jpg


IMG_0124_zpsjkat44y1.jpg


IMG_0128_zpsmnwcxe0q.jpg


.

You poor soul, look at that shirt sleeve. Hey fellow GSR members, should we take up a collection to buy Steve a new shirt?

Just kidding Steve. I have been following your progress and can only say "wow". What a nice place to hang out in your spare time. Keep up the good work.

Larry
 
You may have noticed the fluorescent lights in the first picture above. They are the lights that will end up there, but will have to come down to put up the ceiling panels. The extra wiring that is hanging around is all the runners that will go from one light to the next, leaving room to pull them out of the ceiling, in case of major maintenance or replacement. Bulb changes will be simply lowering the lens and changing the bulbs. Only 6 of the fixtures are in right now, the other 10 will be installed within a day or so from when they are removed from one of my hospitals.

There will be no shortage of electrons, either, feast your eyes on this:

IMG_0086_zpses3aelsj.jpg


IMG_0085_zps81ryyy23.jpg


:cool:

Yeah, some of the breakers don't match, but they will work until I can get the proper ones.
I bet that whole box cost less than I paid for 2 breakers in my recent wiring work for my 220 compressor :beaten:I have an OLD box that's a expensive thing to get breakers for:mad:
 
Yeah no kidding, with double/double outlets every four feet. You've got this sorted every which way Steve.
Not only that, but the circuits are divided around the room. There are six double/doubles across the back wall, they are on two separate (20 amp) breakers. On the wall beyond the ladder in the first picture, there are another three double/doubles, then a fourth one just inside the overhead door. All them on one breaker. A fourth breaker is for the workbench area across the front wall.

Tonight, we got most of the wiring run for the outlets and one of the light circuits upstairs. It's getting a bit wearisome, coming home from work, then going out to work on the shop by about 5pm and coming in to the house about midnight, so I can catch a nap before going to work, but my son is leaving Sunday morning, I need to use his help while I have it.


Well, the insulation's about done. Time to offer to help. I hate fiberglass insulation.
Yeah, just like a blister. Shows up when the work is done. :-\\\

Let me know when you are coming up, I will have something ready for you. :encouragement:



I bet that whole box cost less than I paid for 2 breakers in my recent wiring work for my 220 compressor :beaten:I have an OLD box that's a expensive thing to get breakers for:mad:
I have no idea how much the box cost, it was part of the electrician's package deal. However, I can say that the breakers are certainly cheap enough. I priced the breakers that I will need to get to get the box back to code and the proper UL rating. The 15 and 20 amp, 120 volt (single) breakers are about $4 each. The three double breakers that I need to replace (by the time I get around to acquiring my 220 volt toys) are about $9 each.If I had to replace the 100 amp main breaker shown at the top, it would be just about $40.

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Those fibreglass batts you're using in the walls - I'd planned on exactly those in my wall, but when I ask for them locally, nobody stocks them, which is quite annoying. I don't want to use normal attic-grade fibreglass or rockwool, because it will settle in the cavity. I can see having to bit the bullet and fork out for EPS, at four times the cost.
 
Look under the ladder. See the white cylinder? That is a roll of insulation. When the shrink wrap is cut and the roll is rolled out, it expands to its full depth. We rolled it out on a table and cut it to lengths, which is what the stack of batts is on the table. The roll is 32 feet long. The portion of the wall that is getting insulated is only about 7 feet, due to the block layer above the floor, so each roll will fill 4 "stud cavities" and have about 4 feet left over, which works for the space under the windows and other miscellaneous 'stuff'.

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No pictures of the latest progress, but just tonight I wired the (motion sensor) switches for the lights on the stairway and connected the switch for the upstairs lights, now that we have figured out what lighting we are going to put there. We were thinking of recessed can lights, but they are REALLY expensive by the time you buy the fixture and stick a bulb (probably LED) in there. Found a couple of relatively flat, surface-mount LED "task lights" for the stairway and decided they would work for the rest of the upstairs area, too. They are not exactly "cheap", but they are less expensive than a recessed fixture and an LED bulb.

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What method are you using to prevent it from sagging in the cavities?
 
Firstly, the paper is wider than the insulation and gets stapled to the wood. That keeps it in place, for the most part, but it will also be covered with OSB (oriented-strand board, the panel seen behind the left end of the ladder). The walls and the ceiling will be paneled with OSB.

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Right, so it's actually slightly thicker than the cavity is deep, so is effectively lightly pressed into place.
My wall cavity is 6" deep but only needs 4" of insulation (only a workshop, not domestic, so less vital) and these are the kind of thing I need to find locally, but can't get.
http://www.goodwins.ie/p-709-rockwool-flexi-slab-100mm-38kg-12x6m-432sqmpack-6sheets.aspx
The advantage of the semi-rigid batt is it will stay in place and stay up without slumping. There's no shortage of attic insulation locally, but it's loosely-formed stuff with no rigidity to it. Sure, I can just stuff large amounts in and hope it stays there, but it's less than ideal. I've seen too many builders doing exactly that, with unsuitable materials and when I've gone to fit electrics or plumbing later, I can see the shortcuts and bad workmanship the homeowner has paid for, out of sight.
 
Looking good. I have been renting a shop to play in. I am getting really tired of paying rent on it.
 
my handy lift.jpgThis is perhaps the best tool I've ever bought ! The Handy lift is...... well.... Handy !
 
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