Carbs on... Bogs....

[Johnny K]

I actually rode my bike but with some hesitation. But nevertheless I actually rode it. Still idles weird and sometimes hangs on to high rev but comes back down slowly. To bench synch, I took a paper clip but did not have it straightened out. I forgot about that when I put them back on. I just had the paper clip flat on the bottom. Would that make a difference to have the paper clip straightened out? I then went to carb 2,1 and 4. Tried my best to make every butterfly the same width. I set all the screws to 2 1/2. Then i was going to each one from left to right and going all the in and then slowly out. I did that for all 4 of them. There was popping noises every so often while turning in and out. After a while I just slowly turned one down til it almost sputtered and then slowly went to about idle. Am I suppose to start with #3 and then go to #2, #1, and then #4 just like the bench synch? I dont really remember where my screws are at because I started about 2 1/2 and from there went to each one and turned in very slightly to each carb to just make it idle good. I guess just confused on that whole part. Also where to have the idle at when adjusting the screws. But when I did bench synch, there really wasn't much of a huge difference that i did and now to have it run doesnt seem like i did that much. When i did ride it, the idle was a little tricky. First sitting there it idled around 1500. Then I would go out in 1st and then pull the clutch in, click in neutral to adjust something and then the idle would drop and almost stall where I turned the idle screw to make it idle a little better. Then when riding from 1st to 2nd and then to a stop, my idle would be high from fiddling with it from before. So I would turn the knob till the idle was ok. Coming out of 1st to about 3000rpm, its a tad boggy, but it goes. If i rode for a couple of mins and pulled the clutch in, it would idle prolly 300-400 more. Not a huge difference like it happened in the past, but enough to know. Kinda weird but if I was rolling down a hill going about 15mph, put it in neutral, it would start to rev a little high, I would put it in 2nd and let out just to catch, it would knock the idle down a tad. If i were to let out slowly and when it catches out of 1st and to slightly roll on the throttle, it slightly bogs. But when I let out and throttle about 1/4-almost a 1/2, it wont bog to bad. When just rolling through the gears, maybe 3/4-full throttle in any gear and it farts/bogs. Rolling evenly through the rpm's til about maybe 5-6000 and it will just hesitate and not really want to go. If in any gear and decel below 3000rpm and then try to accel a little throttle or a good amount, it will bog slightly. So should I re-bench synch with the paperclip flattened out and adjust the screws differently? Hope this helps you guys.

 

[Nessism]

Sorry to say but something fundamental is wrong. The hanging idle sounds like a vacuum leak from somewhere...

I assume you dipped the carbs and replaced all the o-rings, including those on the intake boots?

You need to do a vacuum sync and check for air leaks again. I suspect you have done most of this stuff already but the hanging idle is a tell tale sign that the mixture is lean.

Good luck.

 

[Guest]

Check and see if your mechanical advance isn't sticking.
If not is sure sounds like a vacuum leak.

 

[Johnny K]

Yup I replaced all the o-rings after the one carb/one dip/berryman way. I bought new intake boots and o-rings. I'm thinking the vacuum leak too, but I'm just not sure where the leak would be coming from if i replaced the boots and o-ring boots. But as far as that tuning process goes, is that correct about the mixture screws when adjusting them when the bike is idleing? Also the order of starting at #3, then going to #2,#1 and then #4? What would be a good idle to start at too. I dont have the manometer to do the vacuum synch. But if I get it running to at least somewhat not bogging and everything, I can take it to my mechanic where it would be no charge as I know him very well. So at this point, just trying to do things right and eliminate any problems. Chef, not sure what my mechanical advance is. Could you explain that please? Thanks.

 

[Guest]

It's the doo hickey behind that nice, new and shiny Dyna S you have

 

[Johnny K]

Well how would I tell if my doo hickey isn't sticking?

 

[Johnny K]

Ive been trying to read up on how to check if my mechanical advance isn't sticking. If someone could tell me how, then I could go check it out. I tried the carbs on today and still at about 1500 it will slowly fall and stall. I WD-40 each carb boot for a min each to listen to the rpm's and no increase or decrease. The 2nd time (today) I had my carbs on, every mixture screw was out 3.0. Then it started to idle better. Then I just put them all out to 3.5 and it idled at about 1500 with a deep throaty sound that smelled extremely rich. I revved it and didn't sound so bad. Took it for a ride and bog, bog here and there. I know that its not riding right, but no hesitation on the rpm's when I sprayed wd-40 on the intake boots.

 

[Nessism]

Did you replace the intake boot o-rings or just purchase them?

 

[Johnny K]

yeah before the carb dip and complete o-ring assemble i bought new intake boots and o-rings.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Yes, but did you fit them to the bike is what ED wants to know. If you have a vacuum leak, spray some WD40 or whatever around the boots on both sides of the carbs and see if there are any idle speed changes.

 

[Guest]

Well how would I tell if my doo hickey isn't sticking?

Take off the signal generator cover and see of the crank trigger moves clockwise smoothly without squeaking.

 

[Johnny K]

Yeah Suzuki_Don, I sprayed wd-40 on each intake boot and waited a min to see if the idle changed. No change in all four of them. When i was experimenting on the mixture screws (not sure if i start with #3, then go to #2, #1, and then #4.) It's hard because of the stalling issue for me to get that idle to go below 1500. Also if I start at say 3.0 turns, what idle should it be at before i start messing around with the mixture screws? Just confused about what mixture screw setting to start at and idle. When I did go to about 3 3/4 - 4 turns, it idled around 1500 but with a kinda deep throaty sound and was very rich. Does that vacuum line coming out of the carbs into the petcock have to be air tight? Like 2 clamps at each end? Thanks Chef about the mechanical advance. I really hope that its that and can fix that and it will solve my idle issue. But that would be too easy huh?

 

[Johnny K]

Quick question..... On the mixture screws, does that tiny washer have to face a certain way? I know there is a flat side and a smooth side. Flat side facing the spring and smooth side facing the o-ring?

 

[Nessism]

Mixture screw should have spring, washer, o-ring - flat side of 0-ring toward the washer. I don't understand why there should be a flat side though if you replaced the carb 0-rings as you said.

Regarding the WD-40 method, it is unreliable in terms of finding air leaks. Best to just change those intake boots and o-rings but you said that has already been done so not sure what to suggest. Only think I can think of to do, after you check the mechanical advance like Chef said, is pull the carbs back off and verify everything is in proper condition.

Good luck.

 

[Johnny K]

I mean the washer itself nessism, not the o-ring. But I have the flat side of the washer facing the spring. Im going to go check the advance and hope its that.

 

[Johnny K]

Took the carbs and intake boots off. Intake boots and o-rings are squishy and pliable. I took that signal generator cover off and took a 19mm socket and rotated clockwise and no squeaking. I was wishing it was that, but wasnt so I started the bike and let it warm up and then preceded to turn the mixture screws in or out. But it doesn't matter how many in or out, once the idle goes below 2000, it slowly stalls. The main grey wire that comes off of the dyna S and then out the cover had a very very tiny opening like from a razor. It is small, but if I spread it open a little more, I can see the smallest bit of copper that is coming from the wires within. I put electrical tape over it and making sure when I covered that tiny exposed wire, that the wire was closed as I put electrical tape over it. Im just remembering that now because it happened at least 8 months ago. Could that have any affect on whats going on?

 

[Guest]

The 19mm won't turn the advance. Just grab the crank trigger and twist. This is the part that points at the two coils and breaks the spark. It is inside the 19mm fake nut.

 

[Johnny K]

okay so i take that 19mm nut off.... then what... (just have no clue about how this is done) thanks. start the bike?

 

[Guest]

Don't take off anything. The part with the piece sticking out that points at the thingys on both sides of the ignition when it spins. This should move freely clockwise till the advance stops it. The advance is way inside with little springs on it.

 

[Johnny K]

I have not done a compression on all the cylinders. I dont a tool for that, and dont know how to do that. Am I supposed to start the bike chef? Sorry, just confused on how to check if the advance is sticking or not.